JP

Reviving this thread as I'm now gathering quotes.  I tried Wicked Wheels, who recommended that I contact Primo Wheels i Woking, which I think was previously part of Wicked Wheels.  They are not the cheapest, but they are reasonably local, which is handy.  Does anyone have any experience of them?  All I want is to have my Minilikes stripped and powder coated in black.

Looks great!

Oh yes, I'll give them a call.  Thanks.

Can you recommend someone to repair?  Soft Bits have declined.

Thanks Guys.  I do run with a spare, so that's good to know.  I think Oxted do easy in zips...I'll investigate...

Started mine in January, but mine is a rebuild from a bare chassis so I've had a fair bit of work to do just to get the starting position of a kit.  Almost finished now, working on it only at weekends.

I am considering a half-hood.  Does one provide enough protection from rain coming in from behind the doors? Also is there much to consider between the Oxted and the SoftBits ones?  I think I prefer the attachment of the side straps on the Oxted...would welcome experience of one over the other..

What are the downsides to a half hood?

22 hours ago, paul richards said:

I don’t understand why you would want a shower cap over a full hood. Surprised your full hood leaks but would expect it can be made waterproof. 

Sadly, this has happened and it seems that it's not repairable.  I don't fancy ~£900 for a new full hood...

That plastic part just pushes in to the dashboard from the front.  I don't have a pic of it before I fitted it unfortunately, but the item in the pic on the parts site is what arrives.  You need to disconnect the bulb, pull the old plastic off, feed the wires through and then reinsert the bulb.  The new one was a smidge wider than the original so some very gentle filing of the hole was required.  I have a better pic of the broken one, which light shed some light...

Thank you - I see now.

Reviving an old thread - I'm thinking of a Soft Bits long nose shower cap, but I currently have a full hood (which is a bit leaky).  I'm told that it is not designed for use with the full hood and the rear contour is intended to lie fairly flat against the roll bar.  So, for anyone who has used one with a full hood, how bad is the fit?  Does it still work or does the full hood actually prevent fitment?

Yes - with a new holder from Redline - see above

Or: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/gauges/984-housing-clip-gearchange-light-bezel.html

Is this what is broken?

Is it the shift light bulb holder / bezel?  If so, same happened to me.  Got mine from Redline (part number 179038) 88p +VAT.

I've just been looking at this as I've been trying to find a dual gauge set up to show oil and water temp and oil pressure since fitting my Apollo.  After talking to a lot of suppliers including Caerbont, I'm going to have go with the flick switch on the dash and just use the water temp gauge.

There are a number of reasons, but there seems to be a fundamental problem with fitting mechanical temp gauges and that is that the take off isn't big enough.  On a K-series, the electrical sender has a 1/8 NPT thread.  The "senders" for mechanical gauges tend to be an ether filled bulb that is too big to fit in to a 1/8 NPT thread hole.  The threaded fittings tend to much larger to accommodate the bulb. If you use an adaptor, you lprobably introduce inaccuracy because there will inevitably be a well where the fluid will pool around the bulb.

Thanks all.  I gave up and phoned Chris this morning.  New one on its way...

Thanks all.  I'll give Chris at Redline a call.  It must be at least a couple of weeks since he last heard from me!

I'm just finishing off the dash on my rebuild and I need a new trip reset cable.  It's a 1999 K-series with standard Caterham gauges with the cable that emerges below the dash on the right side - in the perfect position to get caught on one's trouser leg when getting in - that is, until the plastic knob breaks off!

I'd rather not cough up £80+ for one from CC and I suspect that they are the same unit as fitted to other cars.  Could anyone offer some guidance on the spec or where else to look please?

You will need to drill the rivets that run around the front section where it meets the vertical bulkhead panel.  You may need to remove the windscreen if you can't get to the screws that pass through the 2 scuttle top popper bases for the tonneau - hopefully not.  Then undo the 4 nuts (2 each side) that hold the scuttle on to the side rails.  Don't forget to disconnect the heated screen.  Consider going to rivnuts in place of rivets when refitting.  Maybe these pictures help:

PM sent

Thank you.  Now going back outside to check the clearance of my forward bottom hose against the steering rack...

Just to throw out another option, ProTech single adjustables are about £600 for a set of 4.

#4 - Thank you!  Very helpful.  I'll leave as is.

Cheers

Jonathan, the electronic Assembly guide is the one you kindly emailed me many moons ago - the filename is "Assembly Guide (Issue 1).pdf".  Let me know if you need me to send it back.  This is from that electronic guide, first image at Page 79 of the PDF and the second figure is at page 84 of the PDF:

This is from my paper Assembly Guide, which I believe is from around 1998 - it is not dated:

And a photo of my routing:

In my paper c1998 assembly guide, there are no specific instructions about routing the large diameter J hose that attaches to the thermostat housing and the submarine pipe.  However, in my electronic 2001 guide it specifies that the hose should be fitted to the thermostat housing and then rotated up so that the part of the hose that passes forward is as high and close to the engine block as possible.  The hose to the heater, therefore travels back underneath this hose.

I have reassembled as it was when stripped which was with the large J hose running underneath the heater hose.  To rotate the J hose up, would put the submarine pipe at an awkward downward angle, I think.

I'm now just going over the car doing final checks as ther build is almost done. Is there a potential issue here with coolant circulation that I'm missing?  Perhaps this was a revision for post 2001 cars and I should leave mine as is?

Can anyone shed any light?  Am I just looking for a problem that doesn't exist?