phatcat
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Everything posted by phatcat
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This was asked before a while back by someone else, but the answers were a little unclear, and I now have the same questions: Rear brake pads in calipers - Q1. Do they really just slot in without any fixing? Q2. What's to stop the pads from remaining in contact with the disc when the brake pressure is released? Q3. The silver metal strip on the top of the caliper, is that used in some way to locate the pads correctly? Q4. I Take it the cut-out groove in the pads is not used in this application? Thanks.
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>Always use a close fitting 6 point socket rather than a 12 point bi-hex, that way the sides of the fastener are gripped >rather than just the corners. Often a 6 point socket will undo a rounded bolt/nut. From my experience of the last couple of days - I can't agree with this enough! I'm always buying 6 point from now on.
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Ok, I don't think this part has a name, so I'll describe it: The metal plate - that holds the rubber grommit that the steering column passes through at the front of the pedal box. Well, that thing - I just riveted it to the pedal box, but I forgot to apply silicon sealant first! Is the sealant important? What's it there for? Is it to stop water leaking into the pedal box? Basically, is it worth drilling out the rivets, and doing it over, or should I just leave it now I've fixed it there? Also, do the rivets come out easily when you drill them? I've never attempted getting rivets out before. I saw the thread on the chisel approach, but I don't have a chisel and I'll probably scratch everything anyway if I tried it .
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Still learning tech terminology - this is the first time I've been near a car with a spanner.
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>When you said the head was shearing, you meant the head of the bolt was spinning in >the socket of the torque wrench, rather than the head of the bolt snapping off >from the threaded portion? Yes, I tried to phrase it so that came across, sorry if I didn't make that clear.
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P.S. I've subsequently found (quite a few!) websites with words to this effect: "Sockets come in 6, 8 and 12 point styles. This refers to how many teeth the socket has. Generally it's better to go with the 6 point style as they fully grip the fastener on all six sides which will resist rounding the corners off the bolt/nut." In fact, pretty much every mechanic's site I came across in my searches said that 6 point are a better choice, and said that 12 point are just better for speed of getting on the fastener, e.g.: "The 6 point has a very strong grip on the hex head. the 12 point has a weaker grip but allows the socket to go on the bolt easier. I always try to get 6 point sockets. I don't think the 12 point are that useful."
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>Sounds as if the socket is too big for the nut head ? I would say it is more likely that the bolt head has been manufactured slightly too small, rather than the socket being too big, because it did sit slightly loose in the socket that worked also. I also had a look at the metric sockets, but as expected, they were an even worse fit. Whatever, I think I'll stick to traditional-style sockets from now on in, at least for torques of over 40lbft.
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not that anyone cares, but actually I think that should have been 12 corners rather than 16.
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Figured it out!! Went out to the garage to check the other harness bag (but bolts were the same). Then it dawned... The Halfords socket set I had been using - shiny new chrome vanadium cut-through anything sockets... NOT traditional hex shape, but the new type with the 16 "corners" and rounded sections between (presumably to make it easy to slot on to the bolt despite orientation)... What was happening is that at the higher torque the bolt head was slipping between the slots over the rounded sections and mashing the bolt head. Tried a good old traditional hex style socket and it went on straight away!
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Note that's its not the actual bolt that is shearing, just the head of the bolt getting "smoothed" - in other words, when you get to around 40lb/ft it just mashes the head off. The wrench is not slipping, but rather the socket just chews the head off when it is turned that hard. Knife through butter style. Maybe I should open the other harness packet and see what's in there...
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>Bolts sound suspect to me, you sure that they are not stainless steel, they should be yellow in colour. Mmm... Well the top, longer, bolts are yellow (brassy-coloured) and go in no problem, but the shorter bolts for the lap belts are most definitely silver, at least that's what came in the packet...
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Hi All, As its Sunday evening, I thought I'd try a post here just in case anyone out there is reading this. Otherwise it's a call to Caterham on Monday, anyway, to get to the point: Assembly Guide states that the harness lap belts should be bolted to the chassis at 45lb/ft, but when I get up to 40-42lb/ft, the bolt head shears - this has happened with 2 bolts and 2 different torque wrenches. Am I doing something wrong, or is it the Assembly Guide that's wrong again? Thanks.
