Z3MCJez

I was one of the Graduate drivers who got to test the AO50s at Silverstone. They drive almost identically to the AO48s. Can't comment on wear or longevity from that test.

jez

See whether I can get any useful data out of the ECU to log with my DL1. I have a friend with some kit that might connect things together.

Thanks both. I'm on the edge of my depth with this ...

Does a Caterham ECU have a CAN bus connector. I think it's under the dash by the steering wheel but I'm not sure what the connection is.

Thanks, Jez

One of the relays/fuses has been moved by your clumsy brother. 

Jez

Joel - Are you still running the original suspension (presumably with spacers)? For track you want to get the race suspension and then soften the front roll bar and probably the rear one too. You won't get wheel lift if it's diagonally flat-floored. [Return]

Then you should race with us in SigMax Grads! [Return]

If you do this, however, it won't be comfortable driving on the roads. I think it becomes simply too stiff. I suspect having done 2 years of racing you will never find a setup that works for you on track if you keep it set for road though ...

Jez

What about it? If this is in the For Sale or Wanted forums, then when viewing under new and updated, it doesn't say where it's come from. Suggest you edit (can you do that?) the title ...

Jez

At least your default pic isn't some ugly airbox thing on the nose :-(

Dave - Drupal help was requested. I have no idea what that is. I log on to Blatchat almost every day and there was no request for user acceptance testing. 

But a warranty claim by it's nature is for bad parts.

I had a warranty claim on my rear calipers. There was a bad batch. I bought the new ones, fitted them, and sent the old ones back. I was credited in full once they had them back. TBH, I thought that was fine.

I do know of a situation where a 5 speed gearbox was supplied with only 4 forward gears (!!!) and that owner got a gearbox refitted FOC as Caterham accepted that was basic quality control.

Ultimately, I suspect it's all about discretion. And yelling a lot (metaphorically) helps in that regard.

Jez

Paul,

Presume this has the Duratec input shaft (which is no good to me).

Jez

It strikes me that there's a missed opportunity here to have raised some money for NtL by having an auction for the desirable numbers. Anyway, a bit late for me to suggest this now ...

Jez

😬

Only 16 Tracksport (next year's Supersport) at Croft ...

Jez

Interesting!!!

Jez

Simon - do you know anything about BMW suspension?

Jez

Full corner weighting is probably not necessary on a road car (and nobody carries ballast in a road car anyway - it's done through changing ride heights on the corners). However, getting it approximately right will make a big difference. Of course, if you sometimes carry a passenger, and sometimes don't, you'll have to compromise one of them completely (or both of them to some extent).

Anyway, properly done, full alignment check of all 4 wheels, following by shimming the rear to align the wheels and then a reset of camber, caster and toe could take 4 hours. But I suspect that you'd get close enough in a road car in an hour. So it should probably cost about £50-£60 in labour.

Jez

Charles (cough)

And me at Rockingham. Now I know it was changeable conditions, but that was my full dry setup. I have also raced with no front bar at Brands although with AO48s I've gone back to Orange.

I know it's not the same in a Super (softer suspension and narrow track) but it's not impossible to race an R300 like this. However, it's definitely not the norm.

Jez

On my Sigma this happens when the relay becomes loose.

The relays are by the fuses - there are 7 on my car. The best giveaway is a relay in the passenger footwell!

Jez

I agree with some of that, but if you set the car up to be "knife-edged" you may be able to do one quick lap in 10, whereas a forgiving setup may leave you slightly slower per lap, but faster over a 10 lap run.

Also, as Elie says, what is quick for one person is not quick for another.

Jez

Higher profile tyres = higher top speed (if the car can reach the rev limit in top).

Jez

That is mad fast but there's more in the driver. Mind you, I say that knowing when I run wide I plough through a gravel trap and/or field. I wouldn't drive a car up that hill at that speed.

Jez

I've made a second one since the one referenced above. It isn't that hard. I wouldn't try to make a one piece seat though. I think that will be very difficult. As Richard Pirce says, wheely bin bags are good.

I'd make a base (use cushions behind you) and then a back later.

For a whisk, I used a metal coat hanger shaped to a whisk shape and then put into an electric drill. Empty paint pots or 6pt milk jugs are good as mixing pots. Ambient temp and a little bit of "restrictive pressure" are the variables that are most difficult to control, but carefully measure volumes give you a good chance of success.

And if your first effort doesn't quite work, use the failed effort as a start point for the next one rather than starting from scratch.

Jez

Miles

How tall are you. I would think that more than about 5' 8" and you'll need a foam seat and at about 5' 10" you'll be into lowered floor territory.

There is a tall imperial cage that was used instead of the lowered floor in the imperial cars if you are more that 5' 10".

Jez

Is there an advantage in having a tiny hole behind the light cluster, rather than a slightly bigger one that would allow the connector through? Seems like unnecessary effort to me (and added weight ).

You do want to make sure that you've got the light blocks in the right place though.

Jez