Ian Mackenzie

Anything can be done with fiberglass...it's the gel coat that is cracked and come off

If you want to fix yourself

- grind back gel coat around crack back to fiberglass (give it more of a shallow u shape for the filler to key)

- fill with normal car filler

- sand and profile (60 grit will cut back to get shape, then 600 / 800 Grits to smooth off)

- repaint and job done (cut back with 1200/1400 grit and then polish in with cutting paste, T-Cut pase will work OK)

For me, mine is declared as an R400 race car converted for road use which covers all the changes I've made to register the car. Outwith this is the uprated engine power to circa 230hp which is also declared to insurance company. No further questions were asked by the insurance company.

Oh yes and mine is built from a kit...but that is a whole new can of worms covered in other threads.... 

Totally agree on the rigid brake pipe....my IVA tester did comment on my flexi brake lines on the rear as being far batter than the standard build. He'd recently tested some factory built cars and commented that my build was a better standard than the factory!

Re 4. I think it depends how you interpret. If we have spilt circuit front and rear, each circuit does operate 2 wheels, of which both are on opposite sides. So in essence you ether need a diagonal split, or split across the axle. What you can not do is have a split only across near side and offside is how I would interpreting this.

Also from the IVA perspective I believe that testers do have additional guidance against specific cars. (I think this also includes the solid copper rear brake pipe as acceptable)

Mine passed the IVA in 2019 with the the rubber cover between the axle and chassis. I had braided lines across the axle to the calipers with no shielding and it passed. The rational for this I believe is that the line between the axle and chassis rubs on the boot cover/ base and needs protection. The lines across the axle do not rub against anything. I hope this helps?

Hi there

Banbury Body Shop Supplies can do paint matching, though I have not used them before. I have used Ebrand in Abingdon and they are also helpful.

Cheers Ian

Yes, I've used white spirit as well.

I'd say 13", here are my 13" with ZZS on and arches are filled

Yes I have had one of my roller barrels alloy welded by Dave Gemzoe as the bottom mount of one of the casting completely let go!

Dave did a first class job and a fair price for some excellent work.

Agreed, my R400 with RBs uses a standard k series throttle cable

Excellent....

Good news.....well done!

Yes please, I'll take one...

I'll need to have a look through the latest developments.

I always remember a conversation I had with my dad on digital v analogue oscilloscopes....he was always adamant about an analogue scope to see real signal versus the digital interpretation (I'm proud of my dad as he was a chief design engineer working in aerospace, so his advice meant a lot to me...) It looks like a USB scope you are using so you may not be seeing all the signal....of course just another theory...

I'll try and have a look over your last posts tomorrow...

Cheers

Ian

Thanks, it will be interesting to see what you find, I didn't get to the stage of a scope on my car (mainly because I don't have one at present...). Good luck!

I've just been looking at this a little more....

From what I can see the main power feed to the ECU comes via the MFRU, if the main relay in the MFRU is failing it may give some supply issues to the ECU....

If you have another MFRU about try swapping this and see what happens.

Cheers

Ian

Hi there

By chance I've just had very similar symptoms, though I'm running an Emerald ECU....

I had a misfire at around 6-7K with loss of crank sync leading to full ignition / injector cut across all cylinders. After lots of checking, similar to you. My culprit was a poor / noisy+12V supply, once I'd wired the supply for the ECU direct to the battery (with inline fuse) the misfire disappeared. I've not had time to do a re-wire yet, but I've got my cause identified.

Best regards

Ian

What is in the manual and what is supplied would appear different!

A copper washer would normally be used on machined surfaced and not cast...If the end of the flexi-brake pipe that goes into the union looks like this:

Then no washer or locknut for me......

Here: https://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Ignition-Toggle-Switch-Terminals/dp/B00JWZ8NYO 

It sounds about right from your description, I would not want to shield an antenna. 

Or here.....https://www.hydraulic-shop.co.uk/oil-suctiondelivery-nitrile-rubber-hose-1-metre-25mm-1-2939-p.asp  

That is what I used on my car

Mine is marked 1"

I have some spare if you are interested....

Hi there

The dust boot on mine is perisher, does anyone know where to get a new dust boot?

Thanks

Ian

Blatmail on the way.....

I've seen them on the scuttle before, normally similar to: https://shop.euroimpex.lt/en/dalis/17732/air-pressure-map-sensor-manifold-boost