glasgow

Today I noticed some friction noise when the clutch is at biting point when in reverse gear. I can actually feel something like friction on the clutch pedal. Only happens on the reverse gear and only when the clutch at the biting point.

Never had problem with gear but since I bought the car a few years ago I noticed the reverse gear can't be engaged quickly. I need to wait a few seconds after I press the clutch before I could engage the reverse gear. The car has recently been driven by another person and I wonder if he forcibly engage the gear before waiting this few seconds.

Any idea please what this could be.

Regards

Ahmed

If you had a shiny selection of sizes to hand you could go down one... 

The selection I looked at (halfords and ebay) didn't have this small size. Halfords smallest is 2x30 and 1.8x 33mm. The brake caliper on is 1.2x20mm. so i was concerned theclip  diameter may be too thick for the pin hole

Another example of "if it is not broken, don't fix it".

Shiny new clips arrived. Put them on and they don't feel secure, you can easily take them off with fingers and you feel no griping tension. Back to the old rusty ones - feel more secure and can only take them off with a pliers

(N.B. I ordered the correct clips from one of the 2 links above)

Noticed today the mikalor clamps of most of my silicone hoses are loose. I upgraded to silicone hoses 3 years ago. In the first few weeks after installing them  I checked the clamps and re-tightened them a couple of times but never checked them again for over two years.

Is it the mikalor loosen up by time because of the vibration and heat? or the silicone hose gets "thinner"?

- is this one of the side effect of silicone hoses or I never tightened them enough 3 years ago?

- how often would you check the clamps? Any recommended torque please?

Thank you

Ahmed

Thank you.

Now back to the  main issue please. Which glue: I am thinking of Loctite 435 but only available in 20gm and seem too expensive for such a job. any other suggestions please

I do have a roll bar light but it is not seen well  if the half hood is on. I saw the above light in David Blue Aberdeen CSR and looked amazing. I am still keeping my roll bar one though. So in reality it is a 4th light-hope this is legal to have 4 brake lights 

In hindsight i should have just kept the two bolts and drilled the boot but it is too late now

I bought this light  http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/rectangular-high-intensity-led-rain-light-65mm-x-106mm.

I cut off the two bolts at the rear of the light and will attach the light directly on the metal boss that originally used to hold the spare wheel. See this pic from the internet 

Any suggestion for strong fast acting glue to use to attach the light to the metal boss please?

thank you very much gents.

Does the halfords one contain the right size? I can see the smallest in the pack is 2.0x30mm and 1.8x33mm. Will any of these sizes fit.

Any idea please what size and where I could buy a couple of the "R" retaining clips of the sliding pin of the standard front brake.

Mine are rusty. They still have some spring effect but better replacing them. CC don't sell the clips on their own or even with the pins , they only come with a new caliper.

Thank you.

Ahmed

OK, so where in the car it is recommended to use and not to use Loctite please

There are many Loctite products.Never used any of them. I understand each one is for a special work, but, If I am to by one (or two) for basic general work on the Seven which one you suggest please.

If the treated bolt is to be removed and will be reused, what to do with the remnant of the old Loctite:

- apply a new layer on top of the old one

- remove the old loctite (?use methylated spirit) before applying a new layer

- no need to top up. One application will last for ever

Thank you

Ahmed

And after I move the pedal a hole or two toward the front of the car, how would I adjust the cable mechanism to compensate for the shortening? (This looks different than the bicycle brake cable I used to play when I was a little boy) 

OK, for the horizontal bolt (red arrow) how is it attached to the bracket/chassis? ie is there another bolt at the outer end near the car skin? I can't see there is tread in any of the other two holes in the third pic, so how would the bolt re-fit in one of these two holes?

That is my main concern but no sign of any cracking

Trying to move the accelerator pedal further away but no luck.

There are 2 bolts holding the pedals:

A) vertical bolt (red circle in the pics): I removed it but this didn't help.

B) Horizontal bolt (red arrow in the pics): I think this needs to be moved from its position in the first "hole" and to be relocated to either 2nd or 3rd hole. However, it is stuck. I used spanner but looks like the bolts is soft aluminum not steel and I ended up "rounding" the edges of the bolt. Used mole grip but still cant loosen the bolt

If I need to bend the pedal. It doesn't look to be an easy job, it looks thick aluminum. Do you bend it while it is in its location? what tool you use to bend?

Appreciate your thoughts 

Thanks

Ahmed

i thought of the the tool bag and the seat belt but still happen with boot empty and seatbelt tucked in

Brake is fine, exhaust is fine, dedion tube needed cutting because of new 13X8" wheels.

Car went to Kenney Brown and he had a good check and nothing found. Some minor play in the transverse horizontal arms in the rear suspensions but not to the degree that explain the noise. Kenny's view it is non mechanical and could be something may be inside the chassis tube but nothing of worry.

Mystery

There is an observation which I am not sure how significant. The loud bang is very obvious (as in the audio record) when the car has not been driven for good few hours. Then it gets less obvious with the number of the harsh braking and after 6-7 brakes you would still here it but with difficulty. Leave the car for a few hours and the bang is loud again.

Interesting about the brake, because the reason I changes the brake pads is the rear brake locking first. It is mainly the passengers side rear. Changed the front to Mintix 1144, not helped. Changed also the rear to uprated rear pads slightly helping but still looks like the same corner always brake first. But again this would not explain the banging noise, would it?

Cable of hand brake does some contact with chassis but not the reason for the loud bang

Exhaust is ok

Recently done some work in the car. A) increased the height of the suspension, B) cut off a couple of mm of rear dedion tube C) replaced brake pads. 

Now with braking "hard" from 40-50 to 20-10mph I hear a noise at the passenger rear side. Best described as two spanners clanging. 

Had a look under the car and everything looks in place and nothing appears to be hitting or loose. I wonder if someone can help please. Thank you

Ahmed

even the most effective radiator in the world shouldn't be able to cool the water much below the thermostat temperature as the thermostat should shut off the flow to the radiator leaving only the bypass circuit.

The thermostat takes time to "shut off"

PS: Annual event, Ahmed? :-)

Haha, thank you Jonathan. Totally forgot about it. 

But I wonder why they don't come in metal instead of the fragile plastic

I am not sure if this is related but my engine started overcooling on rev after I did the coolant hoses bypass modification. Is your coolant circle the original or the modified?

Ahmed