glasgow

Having difficulty uploading pics here but car is listed on pistonhead

https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/14586977

2003 Caterham SV Roadsport 1.8 K-Series 140bhp, 5 speed

25,000 miles

£16,995

Sad to sell my Caterham after 12 years ownership but garage space is needed so time for her to move to a new loving owner.

Factory built Roadsport SV, 2003 with 25K miles. I am just the second owner.

K-Series 1.8 VVC, 140bhp.

5 speed gearbox

open differential

13" Alloy wheels 6" front and 8" rear with good Avon ZZS tyre.

Nitron adjustable dampers, wide track.

Geometry set up by Respected specialist.

Radtec aluminum radiator

Silicon coolant hoses

Full weather equipment

Heated windscreen

Heater

Full hood

Tonneau cover

Arm rests

Removable momo wheel

4 point race harness and standard seatbelts

Push start button

Immobilizer

Air horn

12V sockets (X3)

Cteck Charging port

Starcom1 Digital with Peltor headsets

Daytime running light

SPA digital oil temp/pressure gauge

upgraded air filter

Large convex side mirrors

Carbon Fibre mudguard

FIA rollover bar

High level 3rd brake light

Excellent history including Recent major service inc spark plugs, brake fluid, water pump and timing belt.

Optional extras also available, including many SBFS parts and a set of 16" wheels, and numerous spares (by separate negotiation).

*** Price reduced for quick sale. No time wasters please ***

Car is located in Glasgow and would potentially meet serious buyer at airport

Thank you everyone. Chris at redline will send me one.

Now technical question please. The main brake passed the MOT ok and I never noticed binding or anything wrong. The handbrake on driver side was not working so didn't pass MOT. I expected the handbrake would just need adjustment but then I was told the caliper is seized. Could this be correct or the garage just went for the easy option and asked for caliper replacement?

Hello all,

Car failed MOT yesterday as driver-side hand brake not working. Today I was told the driver-side brake caliper is seized and needs replacement!

I had a look at CC website but couldn't find it. Can someone please advise what caliper is mine and where is the best place (price & quality) to source it.

It is 2003, SV, DeDion. Will try to attach pics 

Thank you in advance

Ahmed

Its a 2003 K series

Would the car be still drivable with no RPM gauge or I need to wait until it is back?

Never dropped to zero

Everything else is working fine

Only happens on harsh acceleration

Tried cleaning the rear connector pins but still no luck

Since last summer I notice on harsh acceleration the RPM gauge doesn't move smoothly but rather "jumps in steps rather than moving smoothly". May be best described as moving like the "arms of the clock". 

I didn't notice anything wrong with the engine sound or how the car drives. ie on acceleration the car accelerates smoothly with no hesitations.

I had a look at the connections at the rear of the gauge and all looks fine.

Any idea what is the reason for this please? and is this something needs fixing or just live with it?

Thank you

Ahmed
 

Oh, so I may not need top up then. Was just about to place an order for the oil.

I need to do the finger (or cable tie) test tomorrow.

What slightly confuses me is we aim at oil level dribbling from the filler plug ie the oil level has to be "ABOVE" the level of the plug. If the oil level is "at" or "below" the level of the plug, oil will not dribble when opening the plug and would need top up. That's why I thought we may need tilting or special pressure pump. 

Thank you John for the links.

Hello Jonathan and Ian.

 Manual just says GL4 - doesn't mention the grade.

Other than warm oil, any other advice please? is it just a straight forward suck and replace while the gear is in neutral?

Hello everyone.

Yesterday I removed the top-up plug from the 5 speed gearbox of my 2003, K series, 1.8L, no oil came out.

- I don't know what is current oil in the gearbox but if I am just topping up, is there an issue of mixing different GL4 (75W-90, 75W-80 or 80W-90)? and if ok to mix, which one I should use (road use with occasional trackdays)

- If i want to replace the gearbox oil, can I do it through the top-up plug hole (very tight space) or I have to remove the top plate (which I am not keen to do). 

- during filling, and in order to get as much oil in, should I  jack the car from the front or the rear please?

Thank you for your help.

Ahmed

Jonathan: is there a real valve in it? it looks to me it is just a soft black tube attached to a hard clear tube.

Or is it you just kink the black tube manually to stop the fluid/air going in the back in the reverse direction? ie instead of tightening the nipple bleeder you kink the tube?

David: that would be good to have your expertise. 

Thank you all.

Have been reading about it and viewing some videos. I am actually now more inclined to do the 2 men pedal pumping method. It appears more straight forward, more effective and less likely to fail. I will get help from SWMBO or one of my boys.

Jonathan and Pikeyboy suggested the valved tube. Halfords sells these:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/europat-vizibleed-brake-and-clutch-bleeding-kit

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/europat-vizibleed-bleed-aid

I understand I can use the valved tube with the pedal pump method. But not really sure how the valve work. Does the valve prevent air from being sucked in? Did some Google and Youtube and seen Alcester racing but it was not clear how does it work. I only found one video in French which I didn't understand a single word 

Can someone please describe how to use the valved tube.

I also read the pedal method is not good for old cars as the master seal is old and fragile therefore when fully depressing the brake pedal the master seal may be damaged during this extended movement. Is this true? my car is 15 years old.

I have aftermarket parking sensor on my 2003 E-class W211. Professionally installed 3 years ago. in the last few weeks it started to beep constantly even if there is nothing behind the car. The problem was just intermittent and now it is all time. I listened to the 4 sensors and they are all ticking. Checked the clip connector on the rear of the sensors and they are ok. Applied heater blower air in case there is water inside the sensors but again no luck.

Any recommendation please?

Regards

Ahmed

Never changed the brake fluid myself but heard it is an "easy" DIY job. Had a look on line for the bleeder kit and the price varies from £5-200. Some comes with pump and some with gauge.  I wonder if someone could please recommend a good brake bleeder kit (one man)  for use on the Seven and may be also the tintop. 

Regards

Ahmed

Thank you all

Ian,

I only use one device at a time as I have another dedicated cigarette lighter socket that was already installed by CC when I bought my car

the -ve is connected to the chassis point at the windscreen wiper motor.

Johnathan,

Thank you for your suggestion. I thought any of the 3 cigarette lighter jacks will produce the same output but may be time to do some tests.

However, As I said above it was working fine for a few years. Now its poor outlet power are affecting both USB outlet and cigarette lighter outlet

And yes I do have a fuse between the battery terminal and the sockets

Paul,

Yes I do have a dedicated +ve and -ve lines for my Starcom and they are connected directly to the battery terminal and not shared. 

Thank you for the suggestion about the ferrite chokes. will keep it in mind

Hello all,

Few years ago I installed a car socket adaptor but I recently noticed it struggles to charge my phone/satnav. I also noticed some electric noise interface with my starcom while the phone is on charge.

The adaptor has a combination of cigarette lighter jacks (X3) and USB output (X2) and it takes its input directly from the +ve battery lead. Here is the technical details:

output rating: 60W
max load 5A

Cigarette lighter jacks:
output voltage: 12V
total output current max4A

USB connections:
output voltage: 5V 
output current 500mA
output rating max: 2.5W

Is there anything I can do to improve the charging power or it is time to bin (any suggestion for a good one please?)

Thank you

Ahmed
 

Richard,

Sorry, my reply above is wrong. I actually put the oil temp sender in the oil filter housing as suggested by Revilla in post #3 in the following thread:

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/location-oil-temp-sensor-k-rover-wet-sum-no-apollo

​and here is Revilla pic I used:

The oil pressure sender is attached to a 300mm blind hose.

Apology again

I have SPA digital combined oil pressure/temp gauge. It comes with all the wires needed. You don't need to do any measurement if you are going to put the 2 senders in the oil filter housing (via T shape connection). However, I wanted to move the senders away from this "vulnerable" place, so I connected them to the filter housing via a small hose. 

The 2 senders comes with their standard wires which are too long so you just loop them. 

I ordered all the items (including the hose) from Think Automotive, however, you can get them directly from SPA. Happy to send you the parts list if you wish.

I have the gauge for 2 years now and very happy with it. A bit pricey but I never liked the idea of having oil tube inside the car. 

Ahmed

Hello,

Looking for Lifelong-fire 3 holes quick release boss.

I have 2 momo steering wheels but only one boss (the original boss that came with car. It is Lifeline-fire with three holes). So, looking for another boss.

Thank you

A