GordonW

Following the usual informed recommendations on this forum I've been using this sealant during an oil change on the VX, anyone know of a good solvent? Gordon

Thanks guys - I sort of assume there is some other issue than just my technique, which god knows is open to improvement , since the backfire through the carbs is quite violent and never occured before.....I will experiment with throttle technique but I have also just bought a fuel pessure regulator which I shall fit at the weekend. Seem to recall reports that webers are quite sensitive to fuel pressure, I'm planning to set it at 3lbs. I'll report Gordon

Sorry if this is an old chestnut but my trawling of blatchat history has not yet given me the answer. After running for a while and sitting for 5 minutes the car will only re start after popping and banging back through the carbs while churning over at almost full throttle. I have just converted to the 'Roger King' formula for chokes/jets and in general the car now runs very sweetly starting easily from cold settling quickly to smooth idle and only missing slightly under hard accelearation (might try to cure this with swopping 40 pump jets for 35?) VX 2ltr on 45DCOES Chokes 38mm Main 155 Air 170 Slow 60F8 Pump 40 Floats set at 13mm closed I haven't checked the number of progression holes since I'm not sure where these are and suspect adding more if necessary isn't a DIY job. Any suggestions please?

I'm keen to replace the ageing Alpha Weber ignition on my Vauxhall, which retains the distributer, for something more efficient modern and upgradeable - any views on the relative merits of these alternatives?

I reckon its worth swapping the original old K&N pair of air filters for a one piece foam for the 45 DCOE webers to get a bit more efficiency, anyone know the relevant spec for the ITG? While I'm at it I'm thinking of up grading an ageing alpha weber ignition which retains the distributer for DTA or newer Alpha Weber, any views on their relative merits/costs and the comination of this with QED 42H cams?

I'm interested in the replacing the rear brakes. I know that some qaulity/service issues have been aired regarding the company but these aside are the units themselves a bolt on replacement? What is the latest view of Hi spec?

Thanks Paul, good thought, how do I get at the float/needle valve if the sharp tap dont do the trick?

The back two look quite dry which makes me think it is afuel problem but since I have also checked that the butterflies are opening I'm not sure which way to go next. Gordon

After a hibernation to address rampant rust I started the car last week and it started instantly, ran ok if a bit lumpy. (its on webers with alpha weber igniton) This weekend when I tried to start it up for an oil change it first fired briefly and then would not re start or run. Eventually I got it to fire up and run, it seems only on cylinders 1&2. I checked this by removing the plug leads in turn and removing leads 3&4 doesnt alter the running. It seems to have a spark on 3&4 so I took out the main jets and filters from the back carb and although there was a deal of crud in the filter the jets seemed clear and re assembling made no difference except it backfired loudly a few times. Any suggestions for diagnosis? Gordon

Having just fitted a new screen/surround I'm not sure I have it connected up right and if it's actually working - any idea how I can check it out? Thanks Gordon