deanteam

The car died whilst driving and will not start. petrol is in the car! What is to be checked?

Inertia switch

Immobiliser

ECU

If the first is not the reason how can we check the second? To check the third can an ECU from another car be transplanted without problems? With this do we have a problem with the immobiliser or anything else? Could we destroy anything on the donor ECU or car?

Urgent as Le Sept is on Sunday!!!!

 

Mounted on the cross bracing above the rack, still appears to be dry. Could organise a digimage over the weekend if required.

I run 60psi with 20w50 hot.

We have one of these but which one do you have? We have the higher resolution but even that is not quite as good as the DV camera itself. Since we have broken one DV with the vibration, the lower quality of the picture is something we accept. The cameras do not like the sun, something that is worse when the car is polished Ali. I have now constructed a hood to help block out some of the light. Run the camera from a battery, a small 12v from a motor cycle, for the same reason that you mention.

here

 

here

Edited by - deanteam on 26 May 2003 16:31:49

 

Edited by - deanteam on 26 May 2003 16:36:05

 

Edited by - deanteam on 26 May 2003 16:38:09

Back to the top

Are the scavenge pump housings interchangeable on Titon pumps? The pump drive shaft runs in this housing and we were wondering if the housing and drive are matched in some way. From two pumps we would like to make one that works!

Does anyone know if these would fit and work, with the correct brackets, on a Ford Live axle? If so there might be interest here.

I have read that the Audi A8 has an electro-mechanical parking brake. How does this square with MOT etc, that is, not a mechanical link to handbrake mechanism. Other OEMs, or their suppliers are developing similar systems. Not really relevant but might be an interesting discussion point at MOT time?

 

Also I understand that Fiat have alloy calipers for the rear of the 'Weekend', made by Lucas, similar geometrically and function as the Sierra set-up.

We run Twin cams and Chris's info is good. We have found that there is sometimes a problem of getting the water hose to the pump around the steering shaft, especially if dry sump. A front /water pump casting from the Europa helps. Make sure that the head is higher than 115mms, std is around 117mm, less than 115mm will lead to flexing of the combustion chambers and gasket failure if power much above std 125bhp. We like them, when you have a Lotus 7 that is the engine to have.

My vote would go for Herald/spitfire, but they are not that expensive which everway you do it. Go for a quality bearing manufacturer.

Sorry I didn't get back earlier, but I think your questions have been mostly answered. The car with small flange does not make contact with the a-frame during normal road use, only by jacking the car. I did in fact have the opposite problem this summer. One side of the a-frame worked loose, reducing stiffness as the frame was free to rotate. The result was that the prop/diff flange hit the side and top of the tunnel. I think the Ford diff is more off-set than the Ital. For the big flange we had the frame transverse tube moved back 1".

We have two Ford axle cars, one with the large flanges fouled the A-frame and we modified the transverse a-frame support backwards so that this did not happen. As far as I am aware the smaller flange does not foul, I don't know if the a-frame was modified. I will measure them tonight if necessary? Let me know.

Good discussion, cannot contribute much to the topic except that polyester resins normally used for fibreglass will dissolve foamed polystyrene. Better to use some polyurethane foam or try to protect the PS in some way.

What kind of manifold and exhaust. I am looking for a 4-1 manifold and suitable exhaust.

Would it not be easier to get an alloy diff nose for your axle. Burton advertise them.

I hope this is not the problem but it has happened to me... in the diff the planet gear shaft came loose, in fact the pin holding the shaft in place came out. This allowed the shaft to float and catch the crownwheel but only occasionally, hence the clunk and a bit of forward drive hesitation. Eventually got worse and felt like the back end had seized up, but would free and behave normally. The axle is Ford Escort. Cannot check the problem from outside, sorry.

Did you tighten the suspension bolts in the jacked-up position? If this is the case then loosen and only tighten when full weight is on the suspension. The rubber bushes in the suspension do not allow free rotation.

We have short cockpit chassis with tall roll bars. The hood does go over the top and can be used, albeit cosmetics are not improved. We have also the small composite seats which give a more 'laid-back' driving position which also lowers the head.

Is the heat from the manifold also a potential problem. Don't K-series have them on the right of the engine, manifold left?

Changing springs is not such a daft idea, when you think that maybe when new, the wheels did not rub on the wings. Springs do get tired. That was the problem with our car. Also if the car is rolling that much that it touches the wings then the suspension angle changes must make handling interesting. I find that putting spacers under wings not necessarily solving the fundemental problem.

wink.gif

I had this problem. I tried 'lifting' the wings but the best solution are stiffer springs.

Maybe someone still remembers these gearboxes.. I need the output shaft that is in one piece not two. Any suggestions?

I´m being told by the main dealer here that there´s a problem obtaining parts from Rover/Caterham for the 1600 K Series.

I require standard main bearings, big ends, maybe con-rods.

Is anybody else having problems? If not could you let me know where I can get the parts from? I´ll be in England this weekend.

regards

Geoff