Clousta

here

£4,000 at the moment,

but there is a downside. You have to move to Ipswich

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😬

UK RHD headlights dip to the left and hence can dazzle oncoming drivers in mainland Europe.

European LHD headlights dip downwards and hence aren't a problem. My SAAB and Range Rover have LHD headlights and are never taped up when driving back in UK - Never been flashed at.

The Seven has RHD with white pvc tape.

I got a Ford dipping mirror from Redline components. It wasn't cheap but with the mirror rotated 180 degrees and the base located at the top of the screen, and offset off to the passenger side, it allows the minimum of blind spot when looking forward. Also I have a better view to the rear through the gap that the diagonal bar on the FIA roll bar leaves. Standard Caterham mirrors on the side screens and the coverage is pretty good. The ability to dip the mirror at night, especially on a motorway, is a great feature. The tiny stick on wobbly rear view mirror was consigned to the bin a long time ago.

I have been running digital gauges in my three cars for about the last 10 years. I think I might have replaced one - breakage if I remember correctly.

I have not had to replace any batteries.

Clarity of the readout is the attractive item.

I have the lastest Rivnut tool from MEMFAST, brilliant and clever too!.

 

MEMFAST

 

The tool I bought

I had this on my crossflow. Its the diodepack breaking down - so it won't get better. An alternator and starter specialist can check it on the bench in less than a minute. An exchange altenator sorted the problem.

In theory the straps will fit through/under the trailing legs of the roll bar and then clip to the 'tab' without the need for tools. However I needed to remove the bolts and refit to thread the strap through - not a big issue. I did find I had to purchase a longer set of Y-straps than were supplied. The trailing legs are attached much lower down in a live axle than the later de Dion (that Bruno (who else?) had when I bought the half hood off him). The longer Y-straps allow the Velcro on the ends of the straps to match up when the half hood is fitted and hence not flap.

 

Edited by - Clousta on 2 May 2012 06:06:54

Very interesting. But read the small print - don't leave the headlights on for 10 minutes without the engine running. 5.2Ah is about a 10th of that of a normal car battery. So it will be great for starting but not much good for any continuous load hence the emphasis on battery isolation when not in use. Even my glider batteries have 7Ah and (if they ever arrive from the Netherlands) the replacement 9.5Ah (lead acid gel)

I use Black box solutions gear for tHe (P38) Range Rover. I find them second to none and their products have improved massively in terms of usability and convenience from the Rovercom lite that I have. I also have an EAS kicker for the air suspension in the car. There is a good support Forum as well.

 

 

Black box solutions

 

 

Edited by - Clousta on 9 Apr 2012 15:44:41

Buy another and keep the replacement, when it arrives, as a spare. It will help fault finding in the future as well as keeping you on the road.

Clean it up and use epoxy.itwill be plenty strong enough. What have you got tolose?

In addition to the advice of George_C you might consider fitting fresh pads. When Redine Components checked my braking system, replaced a rear calliper, the brakes still felt very wooden. Fresh front pads solved the problem. I have a set of front discs and Mintex 1144 pads (thanks slider@7- it's Belgian tradition every other seven owner in Belgium has to have some spare parts bought off Bruno!) but I have not felt the need to fit them yet.

Chris,

What next?

After sitting around for too long your previous set of rear Avo shocks, revalved, and springs have been fitted. The ride is great. I was going to contact you for advice on what to fit at the front. Anything more that I should know than what is detailed in your advert?

Good luck with your sale.

Gavin

 

 

Edited by - Clousta on 6 Mar 2012 16:47:14

SWMBO saw the new badge and said Euuw, yuck, its like a Gene Hunt tie from 'life on Mars'. 'That's revolting' and she is not buying me one of those to go on the Caterham.

 

Edited by - Clousta on 12 Feb 2012 18:40:09

Hi RB,

If your spare will fit the crossflow JP Exhausts system that you sold to me earlier in the year then I would love to take it. Further details sent by blat mail.

RB you should have mail now

YHM

Take a needle file and run it around the opening of the hole of the fitting that is riveted to the side panel. IRRC the hole is stamped through the metal of the fitting and you may have a sharp edge remaining which is presenting your armrest from releasing properly.

Sensible solution - attach a 7 logo/emblem to the mesh grille

Ozzy,

sorry I think we were at cross purposes on heater types. I thought you referring to the old style heater (as modelled here, in the Caterbram 2 folder, courtesy of Chris Bramall) . This type has 4 tabs, 2 at the front and 2 at the back to attach it to the flat surface forward of the scuttle.

 

 

Edited by - Clousta on 3 Jan 2012 19:57:12

are these any good?

 

Tube Clamps

If it is the old style - flat and large! Then once you have removed the 4 bolts/screws use a pry bar/screwdriver and gently lever it up. The angled sides at each end sit on a piece of foam to make the heater airtight to the scuttle base and the heater can get stuck on the foam.

Used my Dremmel this afternoon. Just fitted a new Ford ear lever gaiter to the tunnel top and offered it up. Too stiff and stops the 4 speed engaging properly. on examination there is a 10mm raised ring on the underside. Used a 9mm Stanley knife to cut the majority of excess rubber (synthetic) away. Used a pear shaped sanding stone attachment to smooth off the remainder. Now the ring is as flat and smooth as the rest of the gaiter. Fingers crossed that when I offer it up the gear selection will have improved - I don't want to revert to the original.

The Dremmel has a cord. If I needed to get into a small space I have a flexible extension that fits to the chuck. So the cord doesn't get in the way. I used it extensively when remodeling the instrument panel of my glider a few years ago. My son has started using it for fine drilling and pinning of his Warhammer models.

Not me but I was watching the auction. A mate who is hankering after a Seven will be gutted that it went at that price and he missed it. Our wives met last night for the first time and the town of Caterham came up and that I knew it...why? etc etc. His wife told mine that I shouldn't mention that I had a Caterham because he would want one...too late, oh dear, way too late for that!! 😬 😬 😬

 

Edited by - Clousta on 8 Dec 2011 06:04:02

Scorcher,

if you tank has a simple hose going from the filler to the inlet pipe attached to the top of the tank (i.e. extra breather pipes and other devices) then you may have the problem I had (and the previous owner and the previous owner to that too!). The rubber hose was too long and when in position was making an acute angle rather that a gentle radius. Petrol would be blown back or the pump would cut out. Incrementally I removed 25mm until I has happy the hose was the correct length and sitting correctly. When I look in through the filler cap I can now see the lip and inside of the inlet tube to the tank. This means the tip of the filler nozzle can fit the inlet tube to the tank and I can fill normally. No more very slow filling and seeking out level or downward sloping garage forecourts.

Good luck. Its an easy fix.

 

Edited by - Clousta on 16 Oct 2011 17:49:16