garybee

Is it just the thread size you need or the length also?  I have a spare diff I can check if the former.

Yes, the inner joint just pushes into the diff' and is retained by a circlip.  I just remove the hub and driveshaft complete.  Usually just giving the driveshaft a good pull pops it out but you may not have a good enough connection.  Just pry the end of the shaft out in that case.

I have a pair of stanchions and a screen (in silver) that I don't need.  The screen is laminated but unheated glass.  Pretty sure it has the rubber seal on it too.  Are you interested in the lot or just the stanchions?

Potentially, but that assumes 100% efficiency and that all the power is being used to rotate the flywheel.  You could have a starter pulling huge amps that is overcoming massive friction from a poorly machined pinion and misaligned pinion shaft.

It's important to confirm your test results.

Makes sense with small (power equipment) engines, particularly before winter.  They don't have the flow rate required to clear small amounts of water from the float bowl.

I've done this a couple of times and don't remember it being a struggle.  Slightly different though as I was fitting plain glass that had cost me about £20. 

I fitted the rubber to the glass first then the pair into the frame, used washing up liquid as lube.  Be careful to keep the wooden packers evenly spaced around the glass.  If you don't the stanchion/frame screws may contact the glass and crack it.  I measured the depth prior to fitting the screws as I didn't want to risk it.

"The owners manual for my 310R says the road wheel nut torque should be 55 lb.ft.

 

b) the implication there is that there's a different torque for track (except the manual doesn't say anything further on the subject)"

I think you're misunderstanding that sentence.  They are referring to the torque of the 'road wheel' nuts, not the 'road' wheel nut torque.

I'd be checking that the floats/needles were successfully shutting off the feed from the pump.  

I hadn't taken anything you'd said as negative criticism.

It's never good to berate someone from a position of ignorance.

The problem will be with the block, not the liners.  New liners will end up at the same height once installed. 

It is possible to shim the liners to bring them back up to the correct height,  How low are yours?

Usual suggestion, blast of easy start in the intake to rule out fueling issues.  If it starts, you know it's not getting fuel.  

Also, need a bit of clarification on the OP.  Did it not start immediately after refuelling or later on?  Did it cut out before he refuelled?

What's happened is that 3 of the elements within the screen (or their connections) have failed.  They clear eventually as heat from the working elements is conducted through the screen and heats the area where the failed elements are.  This takes longer due to the relatively poor thermal conductivity of glass.

edit to answer the obvious follow up question... 

Unfortunately there isn't anything that you can do to repair the failed section.  It's a replacement of the entire screen that will be required if you can't live with it 'as is' 

Seems like a very reasonably priced part.  It's not even worth firing up the lathe to make your own when it's being sold for that price.

I would expect your car to have a Rover 'MEMS3' ECU.  I had presumed you'd read 'OBD II' (sometimes ODB2 is written that way) as 'OBD 11' and didn't see any need to point this out. 

It's an OBD 2 reader that you need if you have a MEMS3 ecu.  If it looks like a big silver door stop that's what it is.

Yes, that should have an OBD port that works with generic fault code readers.  It will be under the dash near the steering wheel.  Probably dangling from the loom/stuffed up amongst the wiring.  I will get round to extending mine at some point and mounting it properly.

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That's a reasonable assumption to make but isn't the case.  Even 13" wheels don't necessarily mean you'll have the same rolling circumference because of differences in tyres.  For example my 7 started out on 185/70/13 tyres as that's what was used for the academy at the time.  It now has 185/60/13 tyres fitted which have a much smaller rolling circumference but is fairly normal for track use.

The speedo' is adjustable to compensate.  I just stuck a GPS to the dash and fiddled until they matched.  GPS is very accurate for speed if you pick a straight(ish), level(ish) road.

An easy way to tell if you have fixed or variable cam is to look at the inlet.  Notice on yours the dipstick is between runners 2 and 3.  On the fixed cam engines it's between 1 and 2,

No point guessing.  I'd start by checking for power and earth at the fuel pump when the ignition is switched on (as you know it should prime then).  If no earth, fix that.  If no power, work your way back up the system until you find where it's stopping.  Ideally use a test lamp that draws a decent current (headlamp bulb in holder is my choice).  2nd best option is a test light.  Multimeter is poor choice.  No idea what you've already been told by PM so please say if this is just repeating what's already been said.

edit:  I would also suggest you don't start wriggling connections.  If the fault goes away you won't know what fixed it and it will leave you stranded at a later date.

"Garybee,

Just rechecked. 12.5 at rest, below 3 while trying to crank."

Thanks for the clarification.  That's so bad I thought it was likely to be a mistype.  Battery is absolutely FUBAR'd as others have said.  Even a completely seized engine wouldn't pull the voltage down anywhere near that.

Lots of options on what to go with now.  Replace with standard wet lead acid (Banner), AGM/gel battery or lithium.  I went with a sealed gel battery.  Mine was actually intended for a ride on mower.  Fitted about 7 years ago and still fine now.  They have the advantage of being more resistant to deep discharge whilst also being lighter than the standard Banner.