elan_fan

Don't solder any joint after crimping as the join will be brittle. Soldering is unnecessary if the crimp is the right size and crimped well

Mark

Driveshaft RH ford type (tin cans) recently fitted with new genuine ford gaiters £110

Drriveshaft LH new style £110

Rear Flange/disc and Hub/bearings x2 £120

all parts used but good

pics available

Edited by - elan_fan on 11 May 2013 20:41:21

Edited by - elan_fan on 11 May 2013 21:07:17

Emerald manual says 1 mm2 for the wiring so thats sorted

I'm just in the process of converting an eu2 engine to wasted spark. Does anyone know if the connection to the coil is a 2 pin econoseal type connector and also what sort of current the coils draw. I don't have a coil to hand as they are on order but I would like to order the bits to make the harness. Better still if anyone has done this do they have a shopping list I could copy.

Thanks

Mark

6mm drill in the hex hole and drill the head off and knock the rest through the wing stay

this is the correct fastener screw

Edited by - elan_fan on 10 Mar 2013 20:38:52

Mine looks like Stu's but my emerald has it's connector pointed towards the heater. The plate which is 3/16 thick is painted crackle black.

Mark

Hi, I would prefer to sell them all together

Mark

lhs and rhs vertical link inc steering arms and stub axle (standard type) for car with spherical lower bearing i.e. modern type.

£150 for the pair

Edit to reduce price

Edited by - elan_fan on 13 Feb 2013 23:28:52

Could one of the mods please remove the address before some low life uses it to relieve op of his seven

Thanks

Mark

Edited by - elan_fan on 30 Jan 2013 15:48:21

Thanks Richard

Mark

Nice power! Shame about the valves tho. Have you bent rover valves or Paul ivey?

Lotus twincam timing case - front cover with good water pump, and back cover.

£260 +p&p

Edited by - elan_fan on 6 Jan 2013 17:10:08

Loads of tape around the holes and I undid the mounts so the radiator would come forward. No difficulties at all, take your time. I have a camber gauge if you need it tho I suspect you may have already set the upper wishbone. Also get some new bolts for the rack clamps ready.

mark

Now you've saved all that time and money by not pulling the head off needlessly, go out and buy this modern stuff

wasted spark and optimal timing 😬

check the ecu fuse

mark

Hi Rob, just sent you a mail

Regards

Mark

Hi, PM regarding drive flanges

regards

Mark

Hard one to answer, is enough ever enough :) I'd like to shoot for 200

I guess my best option is to fit forged straight away

The question aside of all my ramblings is has anyone had a 160 piston fail?

just weighing up the pros and cons between 160 and forged. Is it as simple as people tune on standard pistons and get failures. People tune on 160 pistons with generally the same state of tune say up to 190bhp, and people who are tuning for say 220bhp always specify forged. Everyones happy.

Have people gone for the 160 pistons then carried on to 220+ bhp or whatever and the engine has lived happily ever after (sort of)

Does that all make sense?

Thanks for the fix and the reply, it's just listed as a VVC head. And yes it is Eddy.

I would like to treat it to valves and guides and a bit of a diy clean up

I am looking for a VVC head to modify to solid cams etc.

Whats the consensus on this one, mainly I was wondering about whether the valves have been cut into the head a bit too much or if it looks normal and does it look over skimmed?

thanks

Mark

I wouldn't, presuming you run synthetic oil and are probably changing it well before its life. Your engine will be like new inside.

That snake oil is to remove carbon deposits on older less cosseted engines and needs to be thoroughly washed out with more oil.