elan_fan

I stand corrected- good information 

1/4 Whitworth Spanner which is the correct size for the fitting on the braided brake hoses

1/4 BSW spanner

Nyogel 760G seems to be the alternative 

Nyogel

Smaller tubes of Nyogel

I got some from Biggred as mentioned above and am happy with them

the appear to be out of stock

they are available at Burton and maybe they are refurbished Ford if you are lucky 

Buton

I like this thread and I think it's high time for a resurrection.

recently I have been servicing around the plugs on a family car and the seven. I used a tiny bit of this stuff and get a very satisfying click when installing the plug caps and coil on plug assys just a tiny smear on the opening of the boots

Dielectric grease

 I have also found this type of pneumatic wind back tool to be very useful. It also works well with front sliding calipers found on many moderns

Pneumatic windback

I did the cv boots on my daughters Punto the other day.

From the "top tips" in the haynes manual

I made a tool to jam the hub, like the wooden tool above  but from some thick steel strip. Around 800mm long. An additional 200mm length is fastened with a bolt. The pivot point is 200mm back from the end of the 800mm length. The result is a bar with an adjustable V at the end. Fasten the ends on 2 opposite studs and fit the nuts. Works for any PCD so useful for many applications 

I used codan R9 hose which is for fuel injection pressure 

R14 is listed as unsuitable for injection pressure 

All this talk of cut down allen keys

i use this type a lot Stubby hex key

I ordered one only because I saw this thread. I have used it a bit and I like it. The inner slides very easily on itself and it has reasonable padding for 50 something knees.  Saves the shuffle to move around, and very easy when constantly getting up and down to get a different spanner. 

I have a clarke identical to #2. Low entry and high lift with good weight capacity 

best regards 

Mark

I really like these stubby allen keys

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hex-keys/1879436/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Hand_Tools_Whoop-_-Hex+Keys_Whoop+(2)-_-1879436&matchtype=&pla-317985723119&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6KPbh-iD8AIVQ-3tCh1tfAYHEAQYASABEgL-zfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

And this angle bit holder

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-impact-driver-pivoting-bit-holder-86mm/6113D?tc=DA4&ds_kid=92700055262507123&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI74yxyeiD8AIVrIBQBh2GjwD1EAQYASABEgJjovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

A well respected member on the Elan forum recommends permatex no.3 aviation gasket sealant for the cork gasket. Paint it on and leave to go tacky then stick to the block and paint the other side and when tacky bolt up the sump. The sump flange bolt holes must not be distorted. The neoprene gaskets are sealed with permatex ultra copper.

Best regards 

Mark

Isn't it one for a twincam? Try one from qed. Also the early fords had a bronze oilite bush. Wonder if one made like that would be ok. The od was bigger on the bronze bushes. I machined the id on one for my dad on his Ford Classic and it was good for many thousands.
 

best regards 

Mark

#12

not sure of the size, the 2 I have fit "standard" nipples, in my case uprights on a Lotus Elan and the prop shaft.

the SH meant second hand. They are just "Wanner"

Mark

The top hat ones always seem to rot and split quickly.

I bought ATE porsche style ones from ebay, the type fitted to Audi, porsche vw etc.

They are a bit more substantial 

Mark

For the grease gun recommendation i use a SH wanner hand held. You should be able to get one for less tan £20. They work well with oil and are old and nicely made.

i have two, one for grease and one for oil

Mark

So far from this thread i have bought the long spark plug socket (yet to use)

knipex extra long, long nosed pliers both straight and curved (used and brilliant)

not sure if it was mentioned earlier but 3/8 120 tooth flex head ratchet.

Also continuing on I really like this tool https://www.expert-toolstore.com/britool-expert-screwdriver-bits/3008-britool-expert-e131601-1-4-hex-drive-multi-screw-bit-ratchet-handle

and i really rate and use this electric screwdriver daily at work 

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Panasonic-Ey7410La2S31-5025232412105-3.6V-Screwdriver-2-X-1.5Ah-Batteries?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3qKPo9PK5wIVjLTtCh2VCgZ3EAQYAyABEgJNwPD_BwE

also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extra-Large-200mm-Orange-Funnel/dp/B0763RB2G5/ref=asc_df_B0763RB2G5/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310668964056&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5243483166370672188&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045438&hvtargid=pla-711163325646&psc=1

saves sploshing oil over the engine which is all too easy with a full 5 litre can

I really like my Milwaukee 3/8 cordless ratchet. Bit of a luxury buy really as you think they are only for repetitive work but in actual fact they are very handy. Mine is the compact head version, it makes doing up or undoing bolts at arms length a very simple task. A cheaper and I'm pretty sure no less capable version is sold by draper as a stormforce cordless ratchet 

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/m12ir38-0-ratchet?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxb2HsoiN5wIVx7HtCh1QUgAcEAQYCSABEgJSkvD_BwE

I am also a fan of "aviation spanners" - double ended ring spanner but twice as long as normal 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/neilsen-tools-AVIATION-WRENCH-5PC/dp/B00A6STFNO/ref=asc_df_B00A6STFNO/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=399647037248&hvpos=1o6&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2539247252359702279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007151&hvtargid=pla-912194152997&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=85427415979&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=399647037248&hvpos=1o6&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2539247252359702279&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007151&hvtargid=pla-912194152997

Mark

What about these little 1.2 litre cars like fiat that have air con. What setup do they have. A guy on lotuselan.net put ac in an Elan and put a pdf with all the parts needed

I would go for Redline 15w50 

Mark

Is the engine rebuilt or well run in? Where are you in the world?

Mark

After a rebuild Valvoline 20w50 racing mineral oil. If its a run in engine then Millers classic sport 20w50 fully synthetic 

I used an M10 second tap and an M10 grub screw to seal the oil feed for the mechanism as per Oily’s instructions. I used cap screws to locate the blanking plates. I bought a flame shaped burr and relieved the head where the lobes of the cams contact, with the burr in an electric drill. I did this rather than use anything abrasive as that way you can vac out the little bits of aluminium and blow out with an air line and not have carborundum powder floating round the oilways  

The oil pressure sender is notoriously unreliable. Mine never used to show much on tickover when hot. It shot up when the engine was revved. Pressure is fine on the gauge now i'm using a mechanical gauge. The gearbox rattles a bit when hot at idle, that might be the slapping noise.

Is the hood still available