DMorris

phew! ...

Indeed, I only went with it because of positive feedback on here. My logic was that as the oil became "less new" that the slipping out problem (which I never had with old dirty comma oil) may cure itself. D.

Thanks for your comments - been away...hence delay Now I am worried that I should change the damn MTL before it wrecks my &^%£ box :(

Changed to this oil to cure a stiff 5th and 6th - seems to have cured that but now I have an issue with 3rd slipping out of gear - anybody had a similar experience?

Many thanks

does anyone know if I have to remove the intake trumpets and carbon filter back box to change this or is it possible without? cheers

The old oil was dark grey when it came out - I reckon it had probably been in since new in 06 and done circa 14K. Was getting to the point where 5th and 6th were almost impossible to engage without double clutching - new oil in - took it around the block didn't feel any real difference - took it out for a much longer spin and it all freed up. Good stuff but anything may have made a vast improvement over the dirty stuff that came out. Motto - don't believe those who say "don't worry about the gearbox oil, it will be fine".

Didn't give the new oil enough time - all gears are now fine - what a transformation the MTL has made

gearbox central and no obvious fouling anywhere

any ideas? I frequently have to double clutch to get it to engage into 5th and 6th as it meets also complete resistance first attempt. New MTL didn't make any difference. Also noticed the throw on the gear shift from centre is less to the right than to the left, not sure if that is of any significance. Cheers Dean

Went with MTL in the end - eventful (the old oil was very dirty) - gearbox drain plug (10mm not 3/8 as I was led to believe) fouls on CSR chassis hoop that runs under the gearbox so had to jack the box up to clear; filled with new MTL but could only get about 1.5 litres in the box as opposed to 1.9 as I was also led to believe - hey ho :) Guess I must have a unique small capacity box ! lol

Thanks Jonathan Millers have recommended CRX 75W/90NT so may give that a go Dean

which non Caterham oil should I be using for an oil change? cheers

I know, but here is what I was told: CSR Oil checking procedure From cold engine Run the engine for 30 seconds while engine is running blip the throttle to above 1500 rpm. Stop the engine Remove the original combined dipstick & Cap and disregard. Dip the oil with the new long dipstick The Oil level should be between the flat section of the new dipstick (approximately 215 – 245mm from the bottom). If the oil level is below this mark please top up with oil and repeat the above procedure until the correct level is achieved. Replace the Swirl tower cap (with the new cap supplied) I guess the catch tank spew is therefore the best option as they don't seem sure how to do it! Dean

Thanks The consensus appears to be as you say to just rely on the catch tank spew point Darren emailed me a reply to say that if he fills to the point of catch spew and then goes out for a blat. comes back and re-checks the oil level it can be as much as 4 inches above the max mark I am re-assured that 2 inches above is OK and as I am not spewing, I guess I need to add some more! Cheers Dean

To check oil level Caterham recommend starting engine from cold, run for 30 seconds bliping throttle to over 1500 rpm, turn off engine - check level. When I do this the level is within the range However, if I leave the car to get to normal temp and blip throttle and re-dip - it is 2 inches over the top mark on the dipstick Left car off for 30 mins turned off and out of curiosity dipped again - still 2 inches above dipstick? I thought you were suposed to dipp within a minute of switchng off of it would drain out of the tower? Any idea what is going on here? Am I overfilled or OK? Dean

after a couple? Dean

thanks all Dean

Is Silkolene Pro S 10-50 a good (and perhaps better) alternative to CC 5-50? Track / road mixed use. Regards Dean

any chance of a form Geoff? Regards Dean

Many thanks for your advice Charles, cheers

Have a carbon interchangable deflector kit (CF screen, mirrors, quick release brackets - before I begin, has anyone fitted one from scratch to their CSR who could give me some handy tips so I don't wreck mine :) Cheers :) Dean

see, you have seen me Neil! Dean

Thanks Widney lane, Sol Neil - you? I will seek the guidance of Arch at first instant I think and see what they suggest. I may have been a bit optimistic hoping it could be knocked out with no re-paint. The guy I saw at a body shop said would be expensive to re-paint , then add the stripe and then may have to colour match nose cone (whch also has nose band and armourfend.... etc etc..£££££££..may as well just get the whole bl**@@y car repainted! I also thought about the possibility of using a race box on my csr and cutting out the bonnet because the dent sits directly where the cut out may be. Would only give this a go if there were any positive effect on performance with cold air intake over the standard set up which seems to have no real cold air feed at all and a third of the filter sits very close to the underside of the bonnet - the race box costs £300 ish! (maybe cheap looking at the re-paint above!) and I have no idea whether the hole could by cut in a painted bonnet and still look as it should (have never seen one to know). I just wish the sodding box that did it hadn't fallen off the shelf in the garage - may end up being an expensive bit of bad luck - Urghhh Cheers Dean

good man! Cheers