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DMorris

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Posts posted by DMorris

  1. Caterham CSR 260 Late 2005 (55) 2.3 Cosworth Duratec (Dry sump) 18237 miles 6 speed. 3 former keepers. Factory built. I have had the car 12 years and have done 10K. Selling to buy a tin top toy. MOT 4/22 Lamborghini Orange (Pearlescent) / Painted stripe TOAD immobiliser Aero wishbones Lowered floors Black pack New Battery New Pipercross filter Alloys – all unmarked Carbon seats/alcantara cushions (£1200 option) Carbon sill protectors, front indicator mounts, front cycles, rear wing protectors Oxted Thundersport fabric boot cover Titan LSD (3.38) (£750) Rear diff support bars fitted. Shift Lights (Sureshift 2) Titanium track day silencer Carbon deflectors and mirrors (full screen/doors/tonneau included) By-pass pipe (cat included) Stunning car with every possible optional extra included. Now very much a sort after investment of this iconic Cosworth fettled Caterham with inboard suspension. An appreciating asset. £35,995. See Pistonheads advert for pictures.

  2.  

    a real pain and I have lowered floors and it is still a pain. Have seen an extension on a car but it looks asthetically unpleasing. No idea where you can get one from. I was tempted to lose it and just get by with the sides mirrors or sit on a large cushion. :)

  3. He figured as an intermittant fault it was a cable rubbing. As issue seems to become worse when car warm - rubbing against engine/g-box etc He just followed the loom from back to front and looked for the first place where it could rub which was towards the top of the gearbox (and which would warm up) - pulled out gearbox gaitor to see the loom as it came up to the top of the box and you could clearly see where the tape wrapping the loom at rubbed - the bolt head was sharp. New fuse - pushed the loom against the bolt head - fuse popped - result. £50  Guys name Min 07970614034 based in Sheldon Birmingham.

  4. Tried that Mark but blows those as well.

     

    Lost the will to live with it so an auto electician booked for Friday morning! :) I figure it's horses for courses and he will sniff out the issue in minutes...

     

  5. Got it Tim - new fuse - ignition off - all OK. Turn side lights off - start car - all OK side lights work. Turn lights off - start car  - all lights OK

    However

    Turn lights on and start car - fuse blows ; or if leave lights on working and turn ignition off - fuse blows

  6. Difficult to say for sure Tim, I would have to go out again and see. When you do put a new fuse in after it's been on a run to replace the blown one and turn the side lights on it just blows the fuse instantly. If I stick a new fuse in tomorrow morning when it's cold, it will work fine in isolation or with the engine running. As soos as it goes out for a run - blows.
     

  7. Front passenger side light, passenger rear light and number plate light all on one 5 amp circuit/fuse - keeps blowing so can't get it through the MOT - OK when cold, new fuse all works well - take it out for a blast (and the the MOT centre) - fuse blows. Any idea how I begin to track the problem or do I just call an auto electrician?!

     

    Cheers

     

    Dean

  8. well I did it! lol What a nightmare

     

    Note to self:

    soak in WD40 and leave overnight

    screwdriver out circlip

    M12 threaded bar cut to suitable length; variety and nuts and washers, the old spacer and a suitable sized socket same circ as underside

    lots of effort

    some locktite

    voila...

     

  9. Had some judder through the steering wheel when going through certain speeds typically 70/80 ish. Jacked the front end up tonight. Checked both sides for bearing play - nothing, Placed a piece of wood under each tyre and lifted it verticaklly - one side has a prounounced knock/movement on the lower joint between upright and lower aero wishbone.

     

    Is it a new upright (which I beleve it is) or (a) try tightening the nut or B) new lower wishbone. Can't see it can be anythng else!

     

    Cheers fellas.

     

    Dean

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