Fishy Dave

I put electrical tape over the catches to stop them being opened by passengers accidentally. Alternatively use large jubilee clips instead.

Technique we use is lightly sand the outer edges of the sleeve first, to help it go into the crank recess and to help the bearing slide in.

Use a copper mallet and gently tap the sleeve in about a 1/4 of the way in, then gently tap the bearing into the sleeve. Just take your time and make sure it goes in square at all times and both sleeve and bearing will end up flush. Sometimes having a second pair of eyes is handy as they can see that both sleeve and bearing are going in straight and that you are hitting it with the hammer square on.

Hi Graham,

Do you mean damage to this sleeve - here

If so, we (Wilts South guys) have always managed to competely destroy them after a fight removing the bearing, therefore have always used a new one. Its purpose is just to provide a tight fit for the Ford bearing going into the end of the larger Rover crank, so as long as it does this and you have a new bearing I wouldn't worry. If at all worried just buy a new one from Caterham or Redline (I carry a spare if both are out of stock).

Thank you Mick for your offer, all sorted now thanks to Stu.

Thanks Dave! Looks like it is a standard rover part, about 3 quid on ebay!!

Doh, I paid about £8!

I tow with a Celica with no problem, so I would have thought a Golf would be equally capable, especially a decent petrol or TD. here

I had the trailer downplated just in case of some sort of legal issue (1200kg gross from 1300kg)

Edited by - Fishy Dave on 5 Feb 2013 15:40:42

Hi Scott,

Mine just arrived from Caterham. Label attached shows the cap (non flanged) as a Land Rover part PCD100160. Hope that helps

An update, I am ashamed to confess I haven't progressed this any further as yet, with the new job and engine taking my attention. I need new wings so need to do something, just not sure when I will have the chance. If anyone wants to take this on and continue I can help them with one of my old wings and my new lowered stays, if not then I will continue this when the time and money allows.

Thanks, Dave

Definately change the spigot bearing and sleeve, we have had a number of these fail on cars in our area. Do you have reverse lights? If so, buy a spare reverse switch as they always seem to break going back in.

Whilst the engine was out last month I shielded the starter motor in a solder mat and carried out the relay mod, maybe worth considering?

I have just changed my flywheel to an R500 lightweight (used the same flywheel bolts, didn't know to change them) and swapped to a 6 speed box a few years back, you will love the change.

Hello,

I have my engine back from DVA now, it's in the car and running. I would like to take a look at someones Emerald map to compare cold starting settings as once again it just keeps turning over for ages and ages with just the occasional cough. If I use jump leads from the tintop it will fire into life after 30 seconds to a minute and once warm restarts ok.

My spec is 1600 Supersport with solid lifters, single 56mm plenum, 4-2-1 Powerspeed exhaust, ported head so a map from something similar would be great.

The Supersport map supplied by Emerald also won't start the car. My e-mail address is david@racelife.co.uk if anyone is able to help.

Thanks, Dave