DJ.

Happily, I have just done a post on another forum with my latest  improved version made form some aluminium alloy bar stock. Here is a link:

https://www.southernkitcars.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11042

On the second page, there is a photo of it mounted to the sidescreen.

Duncan

I don't have much vibration from my door mirrors since I made some changes. I bought screen bolt retaining brackets which firmed up the whole screen a lot. I then made supports for some Lucas style convex mirrors that are lighter than standard, and finally changing to polycarbonate for the top half of the doors made the mirrors even more stable.

 

I also suspect that having an S3 rather than SV with longer doors helps.

This mirror business is a personal thing. I agree, it is perfectly possible to get in and out with the IVA mounts on the screen supports.

However, I do find that I will open the passenger door completely to help my wife and daughters get in and out and to adjust their belts, so the ability to open the door 180 degrees can be helpful too.

Driving a Seven with screen and no doors is just unpleasant at anything over 50 mph, so I don't feel the need to have mirrors other than those mounted on my doors. Of course, if you go aero, that is another story altogether

Duncan

I'm happy to take my self serviced Seven on track. After all if it isn't safe, it is me and my family who will be in danger, I am much more motivated to keep it safe than any other mechanic. I also take it to an excellent garage for the MOT, the lady there is very thorough, between us it gets a good check every spring

If the gear lever gets too short, the knob can sit too close to the tunnel top and be more awkward to grab. I suggest taking it down 1/2" at a time to be sure

I just hope I'm not tempting fate now 

I'm happy to accept the Tracsport is a stronger design, but the Titan lsd can do a reasonable mileage. I had one fitted by Phil at Road and Race 8 years ago and it has done about 35000 miles. Still works ok with no adverse noises and still behaves the same with the wheels up for servicing. I only have a sigma 125, do track days and the odd donut but I don't use the kerbs on track.

 

Edit: I forgot to say I change the oil every two years.

My Sigma has done 42,000 miles using Mobil 1 5w30. Still runs well and doesn't use any oil, I drive it quite hard and do a couple of track sessions a year.

Duncan

That looks a good tool. I had allen head bolts in the runners on my drivers seat, and getting an allen key in was a nightmare! I welded bars onto the bolt heads to stop them turning, but that was still a pain. Now I have made aluminium rectangular tubes for the drivers side so the bolts come up through the floor. There are two sets of captive nuts so I can move the seat forward so my wife and daughters can drive

Duncan

But the extra cable ties are unnecessary extra weight

Crude but effective. Home builders have more time to improve small details like that (if they are so inclined).

I got a dremel and trimmed the inside centre of the cap, on mine the plastic was thick enough to give clearance. There mustn't be any split pin projecting, so I cut off the excess with a hacksaw after using a punch to make sure it was well folded back in the slot.

Hope this helps

Duncan

Nice looking Seven

You crossed the roundabout at Midhurst as we arrived, so we enjoyed following you towards Petworth (red Cactus). You were very sensible slowing down when the suicidal pheasant was dithering in the middle of the road, I really thought he was going to run into you. Thanks for waving

Duncan
 

Thanks Bricol, I didn't get a chance to check this in time. Good luck with the MOT Tom

I've had a look at my set up, and it does have a plain and shake proof washer either side of the aluminium the brake hose goes through.

The nuts have different thicknesses though (one is a half nut and very thin) , so that may be the problem.

If you have a gap between the brass end of the fixed pipe and the nut holding the brake hose end in place, it should mean you are compressing the union. If the brass fitting is tight up against the securing nut, try finding a thinner one or maybe remove the plain washer. Good luck

Duncan

 

I just use Castrol EP80 / GL4 gearbox oil as the Sierra would have been filled with. The change is slightly notchy when cold but great when warmed up.

I bought a smaller mirror (made for Morgans  ) , I didn't want to glue it on as suggested, so I riveted a 3mm thick aluminium plate to the base. I made it large enough to take two of the adhesive pads and the mirror has been rock solid since.

Duncan

I've done the usual service stuff plus repaired my silencer, changed the  brake hoses and fluid and changed the diff oil. Still have to change my dampers after I found the OS front was leaking and do a nut and bolt check. 

I can't wait to get out in the Seven, but I do have two roadtrips and a track day booked. Roll on spring

Duncan

I don't know if this is practical, but would it be possible to remove some plastic tiles under the centre rear of the car. It might just give you the space to slide the jack under the silencer and jack as usual.

Duncan

I am not any more expert than yourself, but it seems to me that the deciding factor is whether you are happy with the power your crossflow provides.

If you are, I would try and keep the car as standard as possible by rebuilding your engine. Hopefully, if it is running well, you might just need new bearings and seals.

However, if you feel you will want more power in the future, it would almost certainly be cheaper in the long run to source a 2 litre zetec engine as they can be tuned to 180bhp without any major work.

Duncan

They are very neat

I'm very glad I fitted mine, they keep the car much cleaner and drier in wet weather. If you look closely, they are working well in my icon. I mounted mine to the glass fibre, but your idea is better and puts a lot less stress on the wing.

Duncan

Here's a larger version:

Sorry, duplicate post.

I have just removed my front damper after 42000 miles and building the car in 2011. I used exactly the method recommended Wrightpayne.

I just used a small 3/8 drive ratchet, the loctite (243) was stiff to undo at first, and then the bolt easily unscrewed and came out undamaged.

Grease on the bolt where it passes through the damper is vital. But remember, loctite not only locks the thread but seals it against water/salt ingress. Loctite gives peace of mind and makes it easier to disassemble by preventing thread corrosion.

Duncan

I agree with Ian's technique. As there is no spring washer and the torque is only 20Nm, I wouldn't want to drive without thread lock.

Duncan

It's a small world, I bought my Acousta-fil in the same bulk buy! 

At the time I didn't realise the standard silencer wasn't re-packable but that's another story