Skipper555

That's a very handy sheet. Nice.

So i would say mine would be Caterham Orange then.

Also I just found this post that maybe useful

I was told they got in some bother for named colours like Mclaren Orange and Suzuki Green so had to rename them. It could well be Ballistic Orange now

So is this a pearlescent or a metallic?

My 2006 Roadsport SV is "orange" which I understood to be McLaren Orange or Caterham Orange but I've not got confirmation of that. Is mine actually Mango Orange too?

Useful info, thanks. Yeah I've gone for bushes as it's mainly used for the road

1 hour ago, JP said:

If you have a DD tube with a through the tube optional mount, the mounting boss sits proud and comes very close to the shoulder of the shock.  Pics below.  Protech sent me new spacers to move the shock away from the tube, but if I was ordering again, I would ask for the longest bottom eye option that they have (have a look at the custom shock order form on their website to see the options for this component).  The top eyes you can change easily, the bottom eyes with the adjuster not unfortunately.

I've been running with tape over the tube to pick up any witness marks - there are none and so I'll leave mine as is, but I'll order longer ones when I need to replace...

I did mention this point to them during my discussions, and they said they'd sort me out with any changes I needed. I'll run this past them again with your very handy pictures just to be sure.

2 hours ago, Miker7 said:

jeepers thats more than i'd anticipated paying - is that with springs as well?

Yep, springs too

1 hour ago, Miker7 said:

Where is your rear de-dion shock mounting (i'm making an assumption you've got de-dion) and how did that affect your rear shock?

Yep De Dion, lower mounting (under the tube). Protech asked for the fully entended measuements of the current dampers, so they based it on the measurements (380mm front, 470mm rear) with 35mm size top and bottom mounts. This tied up with their drawings they had for the Caterham too.

30 minutes ago, jody391 said:

How much were they if you don't mind me asking?

£752

I've ordered a set of Protech shocks and springs direct from Protech. They've been very patient with my questions 🙂

I should get them next week.

Nice idea and project.

Would it be better to alter the range on oil temperature instead?

This tends to increase slower than coolant temperature and is generally more critical than water temperature.

That being said, if you don't have an oil temp sensor (as I think most cars don't) water temp would be a good second best.

I'd personally be more cautious below 75'C coolant, especially from warm up as the oil is still coming up to temperature. Maybe 5000 rpm?

Matt was very helpful, and as you say, very generous with his time. I did have a fresh cuppa on hand.

The upshot of the conversation though is that although he doesn't supply the Protechs anymore for various reasons he's more than happy to revalve them for a reasonable cost which all seemed fair to me.

His recommendation is either the Protechs, or if spending a bit more money Quantum shocks. Fit them and try them for a bit and if I feel they need adjusting get back in contact with Matt to have a conversation about how to revalve to suit my needs.

I've contacted Protech directly to see what I can get from them first.

I've not fitted a bleed valve as it should automatically bleed air back into the tank from what I understood from this post.

However I've not tested this when filling the system up from empty.

To follow up on this, the T piece mod has worked great for me. Temperatures solid during driving over the weekend, fan kicking in when needed.

Very happy with the recommendation.

(I'll swap the jubilee clips for smaller sizes when I get some)

After blatting around Wales over the weekend I'm sure I need to replace my vintage Bilsteins on my SV with some Protechs.

I tried the number on the Procomp Motorsport website but it came back as number not valid, has anyone contacted them recently that would have an alternativer number for them?

Thanks, that's really useful and comprehensive information. I do suspect those bolts on the bush. Copper washers are a neat idea. I'll see if I can add those when I get it apart again.

Can I have the tunnel bag please?

Well after all my effort of fetching the engine and box out, new seals and gaskets, cleaning it all up and new fluids, it still seems to be leaking 😔

I used blue Hylomar on the gaskets to try and ensure it was sealed properly. Going through this process I can see what seals where, so I'm confused as to why is still leaking. And it's not consistent. It was dry for a few days, then suddenly there's some oil.

I'm not sure why it's still leaking. The only thing that I can think is the heavy duty bush at the bottom of the front of the gearbox, however I couldn't work out how this could be removed or sealed, and it never leaked from this point while it was sitting on my bench for several weeks with some oil still in the box.

I'll have to manage it and monitor it for now and try to take it out at some point in the future. Just a bit frustrating. Although I've learnt a lot about the car while doing this 😅

I've emailed Redline recently for something else and also filled in their form but never had a response. Maybe I'll try calling them for these. Cheers

I'm looking to get a spare throttle cable and a clutch cable for my K Series VVC engined SV. From Caterham that's a quick £110 for the pair, which is a bit more than I was expecting. It's there a suitable cheaper alternative available these days?  I've not found much myself so far

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/guides/157_transmission/168_gearbox/change-crb-without-removing-engine/

Thanks for this. I didn't find that thread before, and the picture with the t piece on the modern coolant tank is really helpful to explain it.

Thinking about this initially I was concerned it would just allow coolant to bypass the rad but I guess as the tank is pressurised to some degree it prevents that from happening.

I've ordered some hose, brass t piece and clips to implement it that way. Thanks again

Interesting idea. Would it be big enough diameter? Also would it cope with the coolant temps OK too?

That's a great idea, thanks for the recommendation, I'll give that a go

I'll try and take an accurate measurement tomorrow, but I think it's roughly 8mm diameter.

I did unscrew the bolt to do the bleeding, but it felt a bit messy to do that when water was coming out of there.

The perished bobbin is on my todo list 😁

So it looks like my K Series radiator isn't as standard and doesn't have a bleed screw, but an extra take off. At the moment there's a short length of pipe with an allen bolt in the end, which kind of works but is fiddly to get it properly bled.

I've tried looking for a bleed valve  or tee piece I could put in here, but they all look to be for bigger diameter pipe.

Does anyone have any recommendations for how I could improve the bleeding situation?

Cheers

As I'm putting my car back together (2006 Roadsport SV with VVC K-Series) I've adjusted the clutch release arm as per the build manual with 2-3mm free play.

Measuring the amount of thread left before and after I have a lot less left. 

The old CRB was pretty loose and empty of grease. 

Does my adjustment look OK, or should I take out the slop?

Before

After

Video of it now