chrism

My DIY skills are not up to the original poster, but for lesser mortals I can report that the refurb process for the leather S seats using the kit from Oxted is quite manageable. The plastic back had split horizontally and all down one side, and both strips of side foam had moved. 3 hours later, the seat is as good as new. And much more fun than Christmas shopping! Many thanks to @Alan Morgan for his great article in the Feb 2021 LF which gave me the confidence to tackle this job.

Thanks Tom.

Glad to hear I am not the only one with a wrongly fitted FIA switch in a K-series ... and so doesn't cut any of the circuits other than the engine loom... So starting from the same setup as @TomB (three brown wires directly connected to battery +ve), I need to "extend" these with a suitable wire to the either solenoid or FIA switch. My question is what current rating should this extension be...? Amongst other things it feeds fuses 11,12 and 14, which add to 60 amps... but a 70 amp wire seems a bit excessive.... I can't find any guidance on here for those who didn't get a piece of brown wire with their BMS kit... !

Mick, just spoken to Tim, extremely helpful guy. Tank can be modded as you say to move the internal position of the breather pipes towards the neck to reduce the amount ejected. Could be an option for the winter, in the meantime will try running with the oil level lower. Thanks for the advice Chris

Hi Mick, have just exchanged emails with the original owner of the car who said that the tank came as part of a bulk buy organised by a Mick Smith... putting two and two together here, I am assuming this could be your good self. In which case, this is certainly one of the original tanks. Do you have any idea how much Brise charged for the mod? Or some reference for the tank model, or the date supplied so I can get a quote from them? Thanks in advance, Chris.

Dave, thanks, that might be worth a try. But I will first try letting the level drop and see if that solves it

Single pipe cylinder head to Brise tank, separate pipe Brise tank to oil catch tank (apologies if this is not a particularly technical description!) Same as the bottom photo on this page except that the outlet pipe on mine runs almost horizontally as the catch tank is mounted just in front of the heater.

Guys, thanks for your advice. OW lamp is coming on at around 2bar as you suggest, am reasssured to hear this is fine at idle, just can't explain why the OP stays that bit above 2 when the level in the tank is higher. Dave, I think I confused you with my "downwards" comment! I didn't mean that I get more ejected at lower levels, just that I have not yet found the point at which it stops ejecting... I will ignore the OP light at idle, hold off topping up, and see if the level stabilises a bit lower down in the tank....

Am filling to 1 inch below the baffle in the Brise tank. Engine ejects oil from that point downwards! Oil pressure warning light starts coming on at idle when the level is around 2 inches below baffle, at which I top up and the cycle is repeated... Am starting to think of this as a "rolling oil change".....

New caterham owner - K series with Pace dry sump and Brise tank losing oil into catch tank at rate of approx 1 litre every 1,000 miles - which seems a little excessive. The setup is identical to that described here No other problems.... any thoughts or advice?