RetroRob

#30  - not collected it yet. Will confirm once picked up. 

Taken another look at the roll bar, have not removed much of the bubble wrap but looks all good. 

Reserved for Ian, thanks

This came with my car unfitted and still in bubble wrap. It may have some storage marks.

£100  collected from North Staffordshire.

Thanks Rob

I'll add a photo shortly. This was fitted to my car before it was driven so other than idling briefly is unused.  I removed it prior to running the car in.

Located North Staffordshire or post at buyers cost. £250

Thanks Rob

The dampers have come off a Sigma 125 S3 2014 but unused until April this year. I ran the car in on these then swapped over to Nitrons. The platform adjusters are used items I fitted at around 500 miles. Some signs of use and marks on the adjusters. I can email high res photo if PM me.

Located in north Staffs for collection or post at buyers cost.  £450 seems fair given they are over £300 a corner from CC when in stock.

The dampers have come off a Sigma 125 S3 2014 but unused until April this year. I ran the car in on these then swapped over to Nitrons. The platform adjusters are used items I fitted at around 500 miles. Some signs of use and marks on the adjusters. I can email high res photo if PM me.

Located in north Staffs for collection or post at buyers cost.  £450 seems fair given they are over £300 a corner from CC when in stock.

I have my Sigma booked in with them end of June.

I will be happy to report back as they were recommended by other members.

More than one way to skin a cat, I chose not to go full mirror as would show up ever bit of dirt. 

I went for a 'reflective' finish. 

Still feel a compact polisher is better for an assembled 7 but everyone has their own preference.

I have recently polished my alloy.

Personally, I'd get a compact DA. 3" to 5" head or you will struggle for space. Most polishers are big heavy lumps to use on a 7. 

If you want a mirror finish you will need to sand it first unless the alloy is not brush finished but better to use lots of fine discs (soon clog). Anything rougher than 1000 will add scratches. I mainly I used 2000

Plenty of clean rags or thick kitchen rolls work well. Lots of black goo to remove as you go. 

You will end up hand polishing quite a bit around wishbones, vents etc but it works just as well.

To keep  the shine afterwards......

I polished a spare sheet of alloy and marked it into squares. Applied various different polishes including a ceramic to each square and left outside for a few weeks in the rain.

Meguiar's A2216EU Deep Crystal Step 3 Carnauba Liquid Car Wax  was the clear winner for me. No stains or dulling. Easily the best out of the various products I had.

Rivets -  A couple of packs of these will do

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134173071230?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=V0UXGxHAQjG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=PfAcJbsARGO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sealant - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255735550563?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JlnGCbRUQUC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=PfAcJbsARGO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

A compact battery drill and pack of 4 or 4.1mm quality bits. Swap when going blunt to save effort.

4 3T axle stands

An air riveter makes the job simple. Like stapling paper. Hand riveter would be hard work.

Some spray waxoil or a  can of white grease to squirt in the box sections to stop the old heads from rattling around . Clean surfaces before putting sealant on.

I did both floors on an S3 recently and found it straight forward.  Ordered from Caterham, 2 weeks delivery. Holes line up perfectly.

"Nankangs" 

The reviews I read were from google, maybe they suit a 7 better than typical tin tops in the wet then.

I did see the A052 and as you say, very expensive for some reason and little information.

Thanks Chris, not a lot of reviews out there on them other than for minis. See 185 60 14" listed on the website. Nice they are catering for classics.

Seems 3 other options.

1. Rainsports but i think they could be closer to the standard Avons

2. Nankangs but seen a few reviews saying heavy and unpredictable in the wet.

3. Toyo R888r which are looking the default option in 14" so far for me. 

Rob

Digging up this older thread, has there been anything new in 14" choice.

For 90% fast summer road use / odd track day.

Looking for good steering feel/turn in, predictable on limit.

Thanks

Nothing to do with me but somebody may like it. Think it is for an SV

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134508351637?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=I4hsoKwgRju&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=PfAcJbsARGO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

#12

When Christian Horner rang I assume you had to let him down gently?

Are people breaking it?

Quite correct thank you, nobody is. The discussion is about passing an mot hence complying with regulations.

Ordered a new hood now so resolved. thanks

Yes, it will be its first MOT  with 2 miles on the clock.

Ok, I will sort it out.

Thanks.

#7  its not a "problem"  its a question.

The cat in the box appears unused. No sign of clamps or insertion marks.

The car came as is, never used since passing its post build test. 

I see other Caterhams with no secondary cat.

The cars are taxed as PLG not under the co2 measurement system.

Hence the question.

Long shot but anyone got a nice black fabric one going unused. 

Car is S3 metric with the caged full cage. So that is double cross on the roll bar and single cross on the cage.

Might be the same hood as an S3 FIA as softbits seem to list both as H6.

Thanks

I have a Sigma 125 which is fitted with a decat pipe (sensor screwed to the decat).

I will need to get an mot as its not been in use since it was registered.

The cat came with the car in a box,  will I have to put the cat on to pass?

2012 order but got its first reg jan of 2014

Thanks Rob

Just updating,

So as per Dave's picture my bolt turned out to be the same.

So do not go by the Caterham parts page. Bolt type must relate to year not if fixed or V cam.

The Caterham part number though is also the Ford number so nipping up the road I got the bolt for £6

Torque setting. Ignore the 115nm that is listed in many places. 40nm +90deg is much tighter and gets to a point where the bolt feels locked.

I locked the flywheel, my air rattle gun would not fit between the bolt and chassis rail so had to use a torque wrench anyway.

While at it, I cut a slot in the lower cam cover and shaved a bit of the lip off. I will now be able to do future work without the extra job of removing the crank bolt. The cover will come off with the lower retaining bolt removed, cover turned clockwise and pulled.

Thanks Rob

With the relay placed with pins up

LH Pin 31 

Top Centre  pin 49a

RH pin 49