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jbcollier

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Posts posted by jbcollier

  1. Stock Ford 1600GT crossflow and a 2000e tranny.  Standard fare for a very late S2 and the S3s.

    The mount is not stock.  The old riveted in mount has been drilled out and this welded in, along with some other bracing and reinforcements.  I have read the both Arch and DSK offered reinforcement and tranny mount kits of parts ready to be welded/brazed into place.

  2. I have a ‘69 Lotus Seven S3.  Sometime in the past, a PO removed the stock gearbox support and had two sections of square tubing added.  This probably was part of a “improvement kit” sold by either Arch or DSK.  I’m looking for a replacement mount.  It is not the same as Caterham used.  The photos below show the old mount next to a Caterham mount.  The last photoshows the two back to back.  Any idea where the mount I have might have come from?

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  3. I've pulled down my Seven S3 gearbox (2000E) for a refresh it was getting a bit noisy.  It was the input shaft bearing but I'm changing them all regardless.  As part of the process, I'm counting teeth on my steel speedo drive gear on the mainshaft.  I only get 6T unless I count sideways.  So I went searching for the correct 7T gear and found this auction:

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/194390802014

     

    My gear is identical. Am I going crazy or is the auction gear only 6T?  If I'm not crazy, anyone have photos of what a 7T gear looks like?  Any leads on a 7T?

  4. Generally speaking, you shouldn't hone aluminium bores.  It can be done, it might work but the price of new replacements are such that new is the way to go.  If you want to save your originals, get them sleeved.

  5. Hmm, about 12 thou.  Not great but not awful.  If it’s the pistons, that’s odd and easily fixable.  If it’s how the block is decked, that’s quite a bit and a lot more work to fix.  I’d start by talking with your machinist.

    If you are building a hopped up crossflow, always clay your combustion chambers.  Doesn’t take long and then you know.

    • Like 1
  6. Two hammers?  One hammer on one side, smack the other side of the link (that the ball joint is attached to) with the other hammer.  The shock will break the taper loose.  No fuss, no torn boots, no need for yet another special tool that you can't find when you need it.

  7. I'm very interested to hear the results.

    What coil are you using?  HEI does NOT use a conventional coil.  Been a long time and I can't rememeber the difference but they all looked something like this:

    Reassembled_HEI_2_.jpg

    Some websites that might be useful:

    https://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/HEI-Testing.pdf

    http://www.pontiacpower.org/HEI.pdf

    https://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/trouble-shooting-rebuilding-hei-ignitions.2798/

  8. 1: a copper washer either side ande you're good.  Any auto parts store/industrial supply should have them.

    2: I don't think you need the two large washers as the brake line itself helps hold that end of the flex hose steady.

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