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To update this - I did not go with the previously linked ebay fuel pump... mainly because the price didn't line up with other OE parts, so I became a little skeptical of it. I eventually came to the conclusion that buying this one from BreakerYard was my best option... It's not the cheapest OE part. But they have good reviews. And I can say that it worked for me. Ben.

Thanks Both. John - Please see below. It seems the part number is 3M519H307... I'm thinking this ebay listing of a new part for £54 is better than the same part listed by caterham parts for £500 As you've probably noticed I've taped over the fuel outlet.. this is because I've done exactly the same as this person did a few months ago.... I'm still figuring out how to get the stub out, it seems stuck in there, even when pushing down on the release mechanism.

Thanks, I'm not fully understanding the question. I connected the negative terminal of the power source to the B10(earth) pin of the pump and then the connected the positive side to the YG168(power) pin of the pump, there was a spark when connecting to the YG168. Everything else was disconcerted from the pump. Is this what you mean? Although I don't understand the diagram, I'm looking at this. Ben

Hi all. Like many others previous I think I have an issue with my fuel pump. I have a 2013 Sigma Supersport and took it out last weekend but I wasn't able to get it to start this weekend. The only thing I had done inbetween was loosen the bolts to the roll over bar to fit the straps for a half hood.... I definitely tapped the bottom of the boot a few times, so it's possible I may of "upset" the fuel pump doing this. On start up the starter motor is working... however I'm not getting any noise from the fuel pump priming when I turn the key to the second position. Following many posts such as this I've gone down the list and I'm pretty sure that the inertia switch is working properly, the fuse is fine, the battery is fine and the fuel pump connector is receiving 10.5V (lower than I expected but enough). With the fuel pump connector disconnected I did a continuity test on the pins on the fuel pump between SG196 and GB148 (senders for the fuel gauge) as well as B10 (Earth) and YG168 (12v supply) both passing. I moved to supplying an external 12v power source to the fuel pump - as mentioned by John Vine in comment #13. "You could apply a separate 12v supply to the yellow/green (YG168 below) using a back-probe, or you could detach the connector and apply 12v direct to the pin in the top of the pump assembly that matches YG168. In the first, you'd be using (and thereby testing) the existing earth; while in the second, you'd need to add a separate earth to the pin corresponding to B10 below:" When completing the circuit between YG168 and B10 there was a clunking noise from the fuel pump... but no whirring noise. At this point I'm a bit stumped and have to ask if anyone has any idea what I should try next.... or is the fuel pump dead? Ben

Good Question. I'm not a mechanic and this is my first Caterham so I wouldn't exactly know. However I didn't notice anything different when the new Lamda sensor was in- I'm 95% sure it was just getting the catalytic converter warm. I don't regret buying a new one however as it was about £70. For peace of mind I felt like it was worth it.

It passed the MOT. They did a test run before doing the proper test - it passed this, while they got the paperwork to do the real test it was idle for about 5 minutes. In this period it had managed to cool the cat enough for the HC to read double over allowed. Kept the engine at 3k revs for about 3 minutes before trying again to find the HC was now well below the limit. I'm not sure if it was the new Lamda, but it may be worth others knowing that the cat can get cold really quick.

Just an update - I'm also replacing the Lambda sensor - Seen a few posts on it failing on Sigmas, Supersport in particular. Considering mine is ex-drift it's quite likely this is the case. I saw one post that mentioned they weren't aware it had failed until they failed the emissions. However there's also a chance they didn't get the coolant up to temperature. For the sake of not having to do a 3rd emissions test I feel the £68 for a new sensor is worth it (especially when considering mine would be about 9 years old and run with no cat). I've ordered this.

No previous data as the car was was used by a drift company for about 7 or 8 years. So this is it's first MOT. As for the photos I assume you just want to see the silencer and Cat? Everything except the Cat I assume has been with the car for 9 years. The Cat I can't actually say, it either came with the car when it went from the drift company to the dealer or the dealer sourced it from another Caterham. Ben

I didn't think the cat was warm enough either, but the garage told me they had got it really hot, checked on the odometer and they'd only done 2 miles... My drive there doesn't really affect it as I left at 8am but they only tested the emissions at 4pm. (Due to the imobiliser issue). For the retest I'm planning to start by going the wrong direction and getting onto a local bypass. In total it will be 19 miles. They are able to get straight to the emissions tester if the retest is done at the end of the day. I'll note that It hasn't really been driven in the last year (was going to be a project for someone else to get it road legal). So the fuel has been sitting in the tank, I've put 22L of premium into the tank to hopefully mix with the old if that's the issue. (I'm aware that it normally has E10 but if your not driving it over winter it's wise to put in premium) I think at this stage the retest with a long drive to the garage is the best option, hopefully it just wasn't warm enough. If not I guess I'm almost certainly going to have to look at Easimap and the MBE cable

So the last part of getting my ex drift sigma caterham registered was to pass an MOT test. Unfortunately it has failed (pretty badly). MOT results The Mechanics think the Catalytic Converter is a high flow/ sports one... but as far as I can tell it's stock. There was an issue where the immobiliser wasn't working properly which is now fixed, but as a part of that the mechanics had been trying to get the engine on all day. This makes me think there's unburnt fuel in the exhaust and possibly in the catalytic converter. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems and/or knows what to do? Looking at what emissions suggest online there are two possibilities it's not getting enough air, which I wouldn't know why. Or has unburnt fuel in the exhaust... which is what I suspect. Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated