Chris SSR400

25 minutes ago, oilyhands said:

Shimano rear brake or rear derallieur cables are the best..

Deore or XT?

Mines incredibly noisy (looking at you Titan LSD!) but back when I purchased a 7 the one bit of advice that stuck with me was expect everything to constantly sound like its broken.. 🤣

Of course this doesn't stop me over thinking every sound and over checking everything all the time.

The more 'race car' you go the more you have to expect the rawness.

I didn't bother with that. Just got the position right and bolted them on. I cut a small circle from an old inner tube to place on the ball joint to give it extra grip and it's never moved. 

41 minutes ago, Rasta7 said:

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the Spa mirrors being sold by Merlin and DPR. I've heard that some suppliers are selling "Spa type" mirrors rather than genuine ones. I'm going to order the DPR adapters so I can fit them to the Eccles mirror mounts, so would make sense to order the mirrors from DPR as well. Problem is the mirrors are slightly more expensive from DPR. I'm getting the plain black convex type rather than the carbon fibre ones. 

Not sure regarding the difference in mirrors but which mounts do you mean?

If these https://parts.dpr-motorsport.com/contents/en-uk/p103 then you don't need them to mount to eccles mounts. They're to allow you to mount to the windscreen, great for running 'doorless'

The mirrors come with mounts that bolt straight onto eccles mounts (see pic).

8 minutes ago, JAL73 said:

I had this issue and was told that my reluctor ring on the RHS drive shaft had slipped out of position. I have a 2020 420R SV.

Next time it was in the garage they moved the reluctor ring back into position and secured it and Ive not experienced any issues with my speedo sticking since that fix. 

I'll take a look, but I don't think that is my issue as my millage is recording and doing so accurately.

This is issue is a difficult one to explain as the speed doesn't stick when in use its on the initial 'start up' of the gauges when the ignition is switch on. On the recent blat I had no speed read out as the needle was all the way round past the 160mph. 

I've turned the ignition on and off a few times when checking things over to see if I could see any connection issue and it seems to have reset itself. 

Whenever it stops raining and im free I'll get back out to test it. 

Hopefully it was just a glitch... will see.

1 hour ago, BigCol said:

If the speedo “sweeps” when ignition is turned out, I’d assume it’s a recent car, so has a rear wheel hall sensor.

Beyond that, I can’t add much other than the equivalent of “turn it off and on again” - disconnect battery and/connectors and try again.

Yup new style gauges. all was working fine until yesterday. 

I don't believe it to be the rear wheel sensor as the miles are still being recorded and accurately. 

It's like the dial has forgotten where zero is after doing the sweep. I've turned it on and off a few times and now it's stuck at 10mph. When I next get some free time I'll take the car back out and see what happens when I drive over 10mph.  

Will report back. 

I have also emailed Caerbont asking if they have any knowledge of this issue. 

Evening all,

Went out for a drive this evening only to discover an issue. 

My speedo needle was stuck at full rotation past max speed near the reset button. When I turn on the ignition it does the sweep like the rest but rather then going to 0 it goes to the opposite. 

I switched the ignition on and back off before it finished the sweep and now seems to be stuck at 30MPH. It's like it' forgotten where '0' is...

Has anyone else seen/had an issue like this? was was fine a few weeks ago when I went for a short drive.

One of the (many) winter upgrades for this year was replacing my old gauges with the newer style 'R" gauges.

I discovered a few things on the way that I thought I'd share for anyone who so wishes to do the same.

Replacing the loom. Unfortunately I don't know the exact date of vehicles my loom goes back to, I have a 2014 car but it think its around 2008 but It could be much further back. I'd assume if you have a separate gauge loom connected (image of connector below) which can be found roughly behind the water temp gauge then this loom change should work...  

Initially I thought I was going to need to cut and splice the newer connectors into my loom as some have done on older cars but I discovered I could replace the whole gauge loom which made this a far easier job. For the 'R' style gauges I changed my existing loom with this https://caterhamparts.co.uk/gauges/5897-gauge-loom-seven-620-model.html (this wasn't in stock but if you connect the parts team they'll send one out, I think this might be the same for a lot of parts)

Once all the gauges were swapped over I had  3 tasks/challenges.

1.Calibrate the Tacho This is done via the dip switches found behind the grommet on the back of the gauge. This was straight forward once I knew how but I have attached the document Caerbont provided if anyone needs it.

2. Set up speedo: Millage & Pulse Code

How to set millage on new speedo (I can't remember where I found this so thought I share again.)

1. Press and hold the speedo button.

2. Turn on ignition and release button when ‘setup’ shows on odometer.

3. Press button again and ‘setodo’ will show.

4. Press and hold button until ‘000000’ shows then release.

5. Each digit will flash in turn starting with leftmost.

6. Press the button as each digit flashes to increase it by 1; do this multiple times to set the right number (remember to leave any preceding 0s).

7. When the digit is set, stop pressing the button and after a moment the next digit will flash, then repeat step 6.

8. Once all digits are set, all digits will flash; press the button once and ‘done’ will show.

9. The odometer is now set.

Set the wheel size pulse code which all the info can be found here: 

3, The fuel gauge: This one took the most time to find the equivalent calibrated gauge but in the new 'R' design. Some time around 2016 Caterham changed the fuel sender which read opposite to the previous one used.

My old fuel gauge was the following: EFCI-1152-78B (38D006A) which I replaced with FFC1-1B52-28B (Caterham no longer stock this part but it can be purchased direct from Caerbont)

Hope this helps if anyone else which to do such a vanity 'upgrade', personally im very happy with the outcome.

Chris.

PIL055_iss3.pdf

5 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said:

Have you read about the recommended use of nylon fasteners for the wings?

Jonathan

After having my arches painted over winter I decided to go nylon, it's a precaution I hope to never need but that aside it's also one less thing to corrode. Overall happy with the outcome. 

I have also fitting two of these grommets to cover the huge hole you need to make to fit the Caterham rear LED's as I had collected quite a lot of cr@p between the arch and light unit. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384263026755

4 hours ago, aerobod - near CYYC said:

Spent a few hours this evening checking the timing and fine tuning the verniers to get it to within 0.5 degrees of the spec:

The engine is now ready for transfer to the engine crane and hopefully fitting back into the car next weekend:

This feels like a monumental moment, throughly enjoyed reading all the updates. Look forward to it starting up.

From my experience, it's all in the twist when gripping it. I can confirm it certainly takes some tugging to get it off.

25 minutes ago, Nick Chan said:

Why not put a wanted ad on here?  
 

I’ve thrown several away over the years when I’ve had replacement batteries and usually re-use the old ones as they have the slots cut in them

I was thinking the same Nick, with the short life expectancy of a Banner battery someone must have some kicking around. 

7 minutes ago, lapsedtheorist said:

I’ve just built a 420R which has an S3 chassis and am curious to know whether individual throttle bodies akin to the above fit and work without cutting a hole in the bonnet?

A hole is required on an S3 to fit airfilter or airbox. personally I think it looks great but Im bias.

13 hours ago, Jonathan Kay said:

That has a resistor rather than a diode:

Jonathan

Ah good spot 🤦‍♂️ 

Update.

Redline don't have any in stock and CC have yet to identify the correct one.

In the mean time I have ordered one of these - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-relays/7826947

Although the part number is slightly different (ending in 87 rather than 93) the circuit diagram looks identical as do the other specifications.

Fingers crossed, I'll update if it works.. or not.

19 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said:

Seems to be no longer manufactured. I'd ask Redline if they have any.

Does this match the circuit diagram and terminals?

Jonathan

That one looks similar. I’ll give redline a shout in the morning. I’ll also email Caterham and ask what they now use as this a common part still used in their current cars. 

here you go.

Thanks

Chris

Hi Jonathan, 

This isn't the 'flasher unit' its the relay that the indicator switch is wired into right behind the switch.

I swapped out to LED's a long time ago. Hazard light all works as expected I just can't switch on the left of right indicator via the switch.

Pic attached.

Afternoon all,

As is the way after taking things apart and putting them back together something you didn't touch stops working. I have just been through the process of replacing my gauges and once all back together my indicator switch no longer works. 

Luckily a nearby friend let me test his relay and it works again, so coincidently my relay packed in.

Now for the dilemma, I can't seem to find the exact relay online. It is a Tyco Electronics 0-1432793-1 12VDC Relay.

Does anyone know if these have been discontinued and if so what they have been replaced by?

TIA

Chris.

Based on the experience I've had trying to match my Riviera Blue I would take your nose cone (or the car) to your local paint shop to get the scanned and matched. 

Not saying Tony isn't your man as only hear/see great things but I had issues matching mine. Also a friends car in the 'same colour' is not the same which I think from what I've read is due to Caterham moving to in house painting? But im not 100% on that.

Caterham fit the Aces SureShift 2 https://www.aceserve.co.uk 

I'll let others with far more knowledge than I explain how it's installed.

Sold

Price reduced £1000 for the pair.

17th/18th May.

Now sold.