Andrew P

Seems one of the units is defective... one works fine, the other one when connected starts the symptoms! Thanks again to K7 VCT.

Hopefully, I have... I cut the side lights and insulated the black wire. Connected the sidelight red wire to the white drl wire on the LED. Insulated the yellow wire on LED. Then just plugged the H4 connecter in...

So, got and tried to fit these today thanks to K7 VCT for some WhatsApp assistance! Sidelights work ok, but when I go to dipped beam, it looks like it's on full beam and the blue light on the dash comes on. The full beam toggle does nothing. When on sidelights the flash toggle works fine, but does nothing when on dipped beam. What have I broked / not done?!

Awesome, hadn't found this thread yet, but had found others - thank you! Seems insulate the yellow wire from light and black wire from side lights. Connect the H4 and the White to Red and... let there be light!

Thank you all, pictures would be very useful have sent a DM.

Evening all, thinking about getting these for my 310, but I am confused by the wiring diagram as it seems to neglect the yellow wire! Assume the white and yellow would connect to the sidelight wires, similar to the JAL instruction video? Anyone fitted these or lights with similar wiring that can help?

So, I got easimap back up and with the two new panels, it all seemed ok. The Adaptive map didn't really move and stayed at 0.0%. The target Idle came down to around 820 rpm when the coolant was above 60c and the actual idle was floating around that number and sounds like it's running good, to me... I didn't make any adjustments based on where I got to earlier, so it is still perhaps slightly over-fueling / compensating... not sure I have the expertise to whittle it down further! Will take it out for a drive tomorrow, to see how the throttle and idle behave on the road vs. the drive. Thank you to everyone for all your help!

Thank you, David - it is somewhat baffling! The idle screw can change the voltage and site quite significantly, which I can correct by resetting the TPS. I think the metrics to measure for "run smoothly" is the bit I am trying to understand, because, as you point out, I can get to 0.4v in a million and one different ways... I think i was getting full throttle at just over site 15, 15.1 maybe @ 4.7v, I don't believe this figure changes no matter what I have tried. I think I have a couple more things to review and try.

Ah! Just worked out you need to change Easimap into Advanced mode... check me out, advanced indeed...

For clarity, this throttle body has the same construction (and may be the same) as mine: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/1982-throttle-body-sigma-125-including-tps.html The first picture shows the TPS (as i understand it) this rotates, which changes the voltage positively and negatively (opening and closing the throttle?). The third picture shows the idle screw as I've been calling it (idle stop in real money?), this also adjusts the voltage positively and negatively. So I increase the voltage via the idle stop, I have to back off the TPS to reduce the voltage and bring the site back in line - which seems to be 0.41v @ site 0.0 for the 310. It's these two things that I have been adjusting, just saying this out loud in case I am missing another aspect, given my relatively noob status!

Mega info! Thank you all. I couldn't find the Adaptive Map panel (I have Map Pot 1 and Map Pot 2...?), I also couldn't get anywhere near the maths... I got it running best as per the cliff edge method, which shows idle around 850 rpm. The TPS Fuel + Trim is always around 2.6ms, the voltage is on the cliff edge at 0.41v, this results in a Final Injection Time of 4.85 ms/cycle. 2.6 x 1.04 + 0.41 = 3.11 ... meaning I am +1.7 and potentially running lean (based on your explanation above)? Am I reading from the correct panels? The car sounds alright and throttle response is good (cliff edge) showing site 0.4 at the slightest of movement. It does still hunt just a little when returning to idle, but it does seem a better. Thanks again, chaps.

Thank you, Aerodbod! I see 'TPS Fuel + Trim' panel already, which shows a value in milliseconds, is this what I need? ... and try to get it to 0.00ms whilst maintaining TPS voltage as high as possible and site 0.0?

Thank you, Chris (your blog and posts helped me get this far!!!) - I getcha on the cliff edge thing... makes sense. Is there a method to try to hone that? How do you know you've gone too far, etc.? I think the older sigmas have a higher voltage on the TPS, from my internet learnings. I originally set it to 1.04v whilst exploring, and it was idling at 2.6k rpm, which was a surprise, but sounded good! Will dig into the lambda sensor outputs, didn't get that far!

This is the cable and the software - https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/MBE-MAP-KIT-3-CAN-basic-can-mapping-kit-for-mbe-can-based-ecus.html / https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/easimap%206%20pc%20software-easimap-6-pc-software---download-for-free.html

I've found a lot of threads on this topic, and they've been great info so far, thanks to all! However, I wanted to create a new thread to clear a couple of things up - hope that's ok! My 310 is my first Caterham and I have had it a couple of months now and love it! However, it has been reluctant to start and the idle is a bit volatile, almost throbbing where it seems to dive to a low rev and then tries to recover over revving and then repeating for a bit till it settles. I have Easimap up and running, so can see the throttle site and angle increasing, and it was at 0.3v at site 0.0 and from what I understand my car should be around 0.4v at site 0.0. Is that correct? I have adjusted to 0.4v (having reset ecu with battery disconnect), but it still wasn't quite right, but better. I understand that the idle screw has a part to play, and I am not quite clear how to balance the two, and was wondering if there's any trade secrets to share? I can tune the idle, which changes the voltage, reposition TPS and reset ecu, but I don't seem to get a steady idle and the throbbing when idling remains. Another aspect could be the lambda sensor (from my readings), which I haven't explored yet, but given the age of the car I'd be surprised if it was faulty. Thank you for your patience and help!