DarrenAshley

Hey all, Howdy from Australia again! The saga of the C400 continues, but we are close. What I am hoping is the final issue is oil aeration. Previously I had a Cosworth/Caterham dry sump, but when purchased the scavenge pump was unbeknown to be badly damaged. I replaced it when the engine was rebuilt (As a result of the damage from the scavenge pump) with a Raceline dry sump. I kept the old swirl tower. Now, I see heavy aeration of the oil even after 30 seconds of running at idle from completely cold and un-aerated oil. The swirl tank is filled to SBD specifications, 3mm below baffle. I have pumped some oil from the bottom of the swirl tower to check it. See picture below As you can see, it is heavily aerated. Has anyone come across this? There are no leaks in the system, so I am wondering where the air is coming from. Raceline have been in touch and I am going to call them overnight my time as they have always been super helpful but I also thought I would see if anyone has any ideas here. Thanks again guys! I had a track day booked for tomorrow to run the car for the first time, 3 years since purchase but I am not going to risk it. :(

Hahahaha. I might have more success trying that. Been here 2 years, moved 1 foot.

The oil is Penrite. Hopefully the second photo looks more normal when idle. Agreed, did look very odd after runnnig.

I am sorry, I dont know what this means. I would assume sealed as there is a rubber bung on the cam cover, if that is the vent? Sorry, I am not particularly technical engine wise.

Thank you. Makes sense. They can fix Ute's down here no probs, but show them a 7 and they shrug their shoulders. It's been through 3 shops, none finish the job unfortunately. I will get some of the oil out and try again. Appreciate the response. Good on ya cobba!

Hi all, me again Well, we got the car back together and started (Briefly), but I wanted to check everyone's views on the amount of aeration in the dry sump tank. I know it's overfilled, I cocked up because I filled it to 5mm of the baffle before starting not realising the aeration will have such an effect. Here is what it looks like once idle for a while. Again, being in Australia nobody seems to have any knowledge of this so the engine builder wanted not to run it till we find out if the amount of aeration is normal. SBD say it is, but wanted a second opinion (Not that I dont trust SBD, but this is a great community). I know I need to drain some oil off, but the engine builder is banging on about putting some clear pipe in the circuit to see if aerated oil is going back to the sump/pump, and I am not sure this is necessary. Anyway, we're close! It actually moved a foot under it's own power last start! Thanks for any responses in advance!

Lol. You can! Sorryyyyyy!

Thanks guys! Really appreciate it!

Thanks James, on the sump which is out and in though? I have not seen an assembly guide for the Raceline dry sump, I got the info from Raceline directly. Interesting if you have a link?

Hello everyone. Me again, building this Caterham in Sydney Australia.. We're almost ready to go. Just today, when plumbing the dry sump we realised we were not sure of the oil line routing. It's a raceline dry sump, as you would all know 2 ports, 1 straight and one on an angle out of the sump: What we are looking to confirm is routing of the oil lines? From the bottom port of the oil tank to which port? Then, from which port to the top of the oil tank? Also, where ideally in the loop should the oil cooler sit? On the way in, or out? If anyone can explain this in simple terms for me I would really appreciate it! If I can get an answer UK time today (My night), we're good to crank it tomorrow, 2 years almost to the day after the car arrived! I would really appreciate it!!! I also have fitting instructions from Raceline if anyone wants them, just that it did not cover which port is in or out.

Thanks so much!!! Great info. I have also got a couple of pics of the internals, and with the drive shaft out :)

Sorry, dont know why this posted 8 times. The page actually errored.

Guys, the saga of the C400 build in Sydney goes on, but we're close. I am new to Caterham building. the car is a 2003 C400 which has been modified to fast race spec with a 6 speed sequential box, updated HP etc. I am trying to work out what the model of the diff is. I cant read the whole part number. Sure someone on here will know just from the pics. I am working on it whilst I replace the Dedion due to some cracks in the tube welds on the DeDion. Thanks in advance again!

Hi all, Thought I would post a follow up on this for anyone else coming across the same need. Having spoken to Quaife, they recommended a flat shift ECU from Geartronics. I have one on the way to Australia! Speaking to Neil Wallace at Geartronics, whilst a load cell gear lever is not necessary it apparently makes the shifts more positive. Unfortunately, the gear lever load cells are pretty difficult to get hold of. I was quoted a 16 week lead time from the UK. There are a few options but the one most people seem to have worked with is made by KA sensors : Link It seems KA sensors changed hands some time ago, pricing went up and a lot of distributors were changed. Add COVID and supply chain issues and they become rocking horse poop... Would you believe it though, there is a supplier in Australia who has stock! I purchased here locally from Calibrated Performance, no lead time!!! First time ever with this build that there is a benefit to being the other side of the world... The engine is close to completion, so once in I will set to installing the flat shift and post a further update with photos.

Thanks Jonathan. I dont think I understand a word of it either, which is probably why I am in the situation I am in Thanks for the response, I will wade through the threads. Cheers mate.

Hi all once again. Greetings from Australia, where the never ending saga of rebuilding my 2005 C400 I imported continues, 18 months after arrival and 2 years since purchase. Not turned a wheel yet, but I live in hope. The engine is close to being finished. I've shipped over a block, and pretty much everything other than the head. SBD Motorsport, Redline Components, and Raceline all been super helpful. The car came with a Quaife 6 speed box, I believe to be the QBE60G. The engine will be the same uprated Duratec 2.0 once finished, and the ECU is an MBE 9A4 derivative. From my reading, this combination is capable of flat shift. I am not mechanically minded, but I wondered if anyone had any experience converting to flat shift and what is required? I've read about potentiometers, I cannot see one on this box but I can only really get underneath, I am loathed to touch the tunnel at present with the engine out and the gearbox supported in the car. Anyone that could share photos of where to look for a potentiometer, or if one is even needed and what they did to convert to flat shift would be greatly appreciated. Thanks once again, fantastic community and I look forward to sharing some photos of it on Australian circuits this year!

Thanks Jonathan. Both in fact! From London to Sydney, me a few years in advance of the car :)

Hey all, Bringing my C400 back to life after a trip half way round the world, and a series of disasters. The pedal box is the latest focus. I have been looking for suppliers for the rubber boots for the clutch and master cylinder/brake pedal. Mine are tired and split. See photos. Does anyone know where to source these? Thanks in advance.

Thanks, I really appreciate the input. We are going to go with a pressed impeller as above :) .

Hi all, My engine build (Disaster) is progressing. Seems we have shipped at least a complete engine in parts from the UK to Australia, some components even twice by the cost. My engine builder here is wanting a specific type of water pump. They are not fans of the pressed steel impellers, and given temps here they want something with a cast impeller like that below Has anyone come across a supplier of these for a 2.0 Duratec? What road vehicles were this engine used in? I would imagine searching for the vehicle type might yield a few more hits... Sorry for dumb questions, I am learning as I go here. Thanks in advance

Thanks, appreciate it too. I spoke to Raceline, and I am just waiting on their response. Not really thought about adding more power, but I should! Every cloud... :)

Thanks David. I posted in PH whilst I waited for my membership here. Really appreciate the advice. Donor engine does sound the way to go from what I am being told...

Hi all, Excuse my inexperience here, but I am in need of some help. I imported a C400 to Australia from the UK, and I have been let down badly by the sellers (A well known UK race team). Having got the car here and had it assessed by a local engine builder, it needs a full rebuild. When the engine shop took the oil filter off and inspected it, look what was found! This all came from the scavenge pump: We stripped the engine down and found various other issues: 1. Rust on exhaust valves 2. Moisture in bores 3. Conrod bolts not correctly tensioned (Only had around .002” stretch) 4. Crank shaft end float excessive – 0.014” 5. Piston to bore clearance excessive – 0.0055” The cylinder head has been pressure tested, it is OK. How the water got it we do not know. My questions are related to getting this car back on track: 1. The pistons are already 88mm. What is the best way forward here? The engine shop are talking about boring the cylinder and getting pistons made, or getting a new block, however they are not working on Duratecs regularly here in Australia. New custom pistons seems very complicated. Could we hone the block and use the existing pistons? The UK race team who sold this to me said there was no excessive clearance when it left the UK, the bores don’t grow at sea so what is everyone’s thoughts on those clearances of 0.0055”? Could it just be honed (Depending upon the condition), or are those clearances too large already? Should I look at a new block, and get it bored to fit the existing pistons? If so, any recommendations on suppliers? I have seen Raceline advertise them. 2. The Caterham dry sump fitted seems from what I have read to have had issues and is no longer in regular supply. It seems you cannot get the scavenge pump in isolation, and have to get the kit, and the new pump that comes with it is oil and scavenge pump? Anyone know if you can get just the old scavenge pump? Part number is YR0232/03. I cant find it anywhere. If not, I will just get the Raceline kit and be done with it The cylinder head will be cleaned up, the valves too and a rebuild will be done, I just need to get over this hump with the dry sump/pump and the block/pistons. Any recommendations on suppliers too would be good. I have reached out to SBD and got pricing for bearings etc, and will speak to Raceline on the dry sump kit. Thanks all!