Rich Goddard

Resolved.   Think Auto had sent me the wrong spec adapter first time round.

Don't know what thread it was, but it was very close to the correct 1/4" NPT to fit the sender port in the Modine mount. 

@John Vine looking at your photos I’ve realised I have a different set-up. My car has a Modine oil cooler (I’ve edited my post above), whereas it looks like yours connects directly into the filter housing plate.  Maybe the Modine mount isn’t same thread for the sender port. 

Thanks very much for the replies guys.

I’ll start with trying to determine whether I’ve been sent the wrong adapter. 

With the electric-to-mechanical oil pressure conversion (Duratec) I’m having trouble replacing the electric oil pressure sender into the oil filter / modine mount, with the steel adapter (to take the hose).

The thread (I think) is supposed to be 1/4” NPT. 

The electric sender (Variohm EPT2100 94245002) seems like a perfect fit (it can be hand-tightened up to about 3-4 threads in then smooth/gradual spanner tighten. 

Whereas the adapter (an MMS 10-3-4, from Think Automotive) cannot be hand tightened in at all, and only embeds about 2 threads in before becoming very tight…so I backed-off with spanner.

At the ‘starting thread’ the outside diameter of the electric sender thread is 13.04mm.

The adapter starts at 13.29mm diameter. 

The thread pitches look identical to me, so I’ve concluded it’s just that small increase in diameter making the adapter an uncomfortably tight fit. 

I’m assuming just 2 threads inserted on the adapter is not enough?

Any suggestions very welcome. Anyone else overcome this? 

Assuming there aren’t different ‘specs’ of 1/4” NPT (?), all I can think of is just trying a different supplier of the adapter at random?

Thanks, Rich 

I know there’re a few threads on this but picked this one as fairly representative. 
See my review below posted on Trustpilot after a disappointing experience with the DT kit. Hope it helps someone gather the other parts together if you’re committing to the DT kit. 

Chris at Redline Components. 

sales@redlinecomponents.co.uk

Thank you, every day’s a school day!   I live and learn….including not to listen to every word a self proclaimed experienced mechanic tells me.

On 08/02/2024 at 12:32, Wrightpayne said:

Its not clear in the picture but this is the 8mm spacer circled - it sits on top of the spherical bearing. If you’re unsure just post a similar picture and I should be able to advise. Also a picture of the nyloc and I’ll tell you what type needed.

Ian

If you don’t mind me saying Sir, your balls looking a little dry there….looks uncomfortable 😉. Someone once told me to oil my lower balls with no more than 1 or 2 drops every month. 

1 hour ago, BigCol said:

….edited to add, if I was to do this again, I’d use the adaptor @MattB references above.

Yes to this. Mounted mine flush in fuse box cover. Looks neat. 

#47

Thanks John.

Yes, looking to pump-out just to the top of your yellow outlined 'unusable' fuel.

Thanks for the pointers on disconnection point, and 12v feed  

I'm looking to drain my tank and calibrate the sender/gauge this weekend. 
On a Duratec set-up (with plenum) can someone please help pin-point the best joint on the fuel line to split, to pump the tank out?

Cheers, Rich

(SuperSport R, 2015)

Specific to the cockpit, when I was recently replacing my S3 car (imperial) with an S3 (metric) I had cause to ask Arch about the differences.  This was specific to pedal positions and cockpit length only.  Where my imperial had 3 pedal options/positions, in the metric I was looking there were only 2.  At 6' 3" tall I knew I just fitted my legs in an imperial S3 (with Tillett right back, and pedals in forward of the 3 positions), but I wasn't sure about the metric.

This is their reply:
"The front [brake and clutch pedal] bush appears to be 5/8" further back in the Metric chassis than the forward-most position of the 3 in the imperial. (approx 16mm).
The cockpit length (base of chassis) is exactly the same even though the Metric heel-tube is 3/4" and the Imperial 1/2".  Just measured both chassis at 43 3/4" (1111mm)"

John, as per Oily's post #9 (in thread below) Gtechniq worked for me on my CF rear stoneguards. I used the C1 though, not the C4, just because that's the one I already had.

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/any-tips-cleaning-carbon-fibre

Not cheap though so might be worth borrowing some to try a spot first before buying.

Rich

Couple of excellent threads, thanks Jonathan. 

I'm interested to know what critical spares others carry to trackdays (or touring) - particularly Duratec powered cars?

I'm quite new to Duratec ownership (having switched from K series) and have a few trackdays planned this year.

Thanks, Rich

2015 Supersport R 210bhp  

Just sharing a bit of new learning (for me), for the hopeful benefit of others.  Realise this might be common knowledge for everyone else who uses the AP race cap for their master cylinder....but wasn't obvious to me.

Replacing my standard cap with race cap I stumbled across the info below (from AP website) which says you must first remove the plastic baffle and rubber washer inside the cap before fitting the bellows.

The bellows then takes a little bit of stretching and persuading/poking to seat properly around the plastic 'upstand' ring within the cap.  But when it does it feels very well seated.

I wonder if this might be one reason why some suffer leaks from the race cap (ie the bellows fails to seat/seal properly against the baffle and rubber washer.

Reply to #38

Thanks Tom. 
So it sounds like the CW adjustment and Redline Shockproof helped, but didn't completely nail the issue if you're still considering other measures. 
Can I just check please....did you add LSD additive to the Redline Shockproof as well?

cheers, Rich 

Read this and other similar posts with interest for opinions & advice.

I have a loud diff whine on my (new to me) 2015 Supersport R. Understand the source is the crownwheel & pinion  

Just before I took delivery of it in February R&R had removed the knackered Titan LSD, overhauled the diff with new seals & bearings and fitted new Tracsport LSD unit. I love the LSD unit, the car feels very well planted! No issues with that. 

Should say I don't mind mechanical noises - all part of it in my opinion, but if there's an easy fix to reduce the pitch and volume of the noise a little I'll try it. 

Steve Perks of SPC/Tracsport fame suggested trying Redline Shockproof oil.  Have others tried this with success? Does it require friction modifier additive too? 

Also read in this thread about oversized spacer washers bridging the diff-mounting rubber bushes and transmitting resonance direct to the chassis.  Has anyone positively determined this as being a cause of amplifying the noise? And if so, a fix?

Cheers, Rich. 

#4.  PM sent.  Clutch cable sold. 

#2 PM sent.  Book sold.

After selling my 1600 K-series car earlier this year I have a few parts for sale.

Would prefer to sell/ship as a job-lot:

• New Payen MLS head gasket. 
• Used throttle body. (Standard size. Ref.TV1 - 48mm)
• Used water pump.  Changed as a precaution during belt change.  Was fully functioning prior to replacement.
• **SOLD**.  New RH drive clutch cable (Not VVC) - carried as a spare, so unused.
• **SOLD**.  K-Series book: Maintenance, Repair and Modification by Iain Ayre & Rob Hawkins.
•  

Just had the uprated front brake kit fitted (incl master cylinder) so the standard kit is for sale:  solid discs, 2-pot radial calipers (incl Mintex pads), and standard master cylinder.

All from a 2015 car, which has done 20k miles.  All fully functioning prior to upgrade.  All components look in very good condition to me.

£250 + whatever the P&P costs.  (Or collection from Newcastle upon Tyne)