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jonsymons

Area Representative
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Posts posted by jonsymons

  1. Final call for those wishing to book onto the Bath and Wells tour - links in post #5 above (although you can just turn up at the sign on point too) on Saturday 7 May at for a 10am start:

    The Carpenters Arms, Stanton Wick, BS39 4BX 

    w3w location: ///initiates.water.overlaps

    Weather's looking ideal.

    There's a temporary WhatsApp for the event too - scan the QR code below to join:

     

    large_BathandWells.jpg.755b22d8ed76c47ded596a5d10efddb9.jpg

  2. I run the Uniroyals and once I had my tracking sorted in line with the AG (ie toe in) was very content with the handling (road use only mind you). 

    Even though you can only really adjust the toe in/out on my car with the old style top links/live axle, I did get mine checked for four wheel alignment too to make sure everything was pointing in the right direction...

  3. ...trunnion.

    One of mine is. The epoxy resin trick has got me through the summer but its leaking again so I think a winter task will be to replace. 

    My question: is the accepted wisdom to also replace (as a precaution) the Upright/stub axle carrier at the same time or wait and see what it looks like when the trunnion is removed?

    Thanks

    Jon

  4. Hi Rob - welcome and hope you are enjoying your new purchase?

    I'm guessing you've got an imperial chassis. Live axle or Dedion?

    I've got an imp live axle with the original (low) roll bar. I've found that finding a replacement 'track day' roll bar to fit is like the proverbial hens teeth. Arch Motors will make one for you but they are about £400 so I'm saving up...

    They do very occasionally come up on here but I've never been fast enough to secure. 

    Re hood, don't bother about the full roof, get a half hood from Soft Bits for Sevens - they do the job just as well, in fact better. Don't buy the half hood though until you have sorted the roll bar as the hoods are made to fit the bar you've got. 

    Jon

  5. I met a guy at the Poole Sevens on the Quayside on Friday - he's looking for a (sensibly priced) Crossflow engined car in need of restoration.

    If you can PM me with any leads I will pass on his contact details. 

    Jon

  6. Terry - re the oil, I used a Sealey Oil Suction Syringe to get out what I could and then used it as a funnel to pour in fresh oil tryin to get the hose down to the bottom - and kept going until what was coming out of the fill hole on the gearbox was clean oil. Bowl/rags at the ready. Not sure if that's the approved method but seemed to work...

  7. No doubt this is well covered in the archive but can I please check something...

    I've just had the front wheel toe/tracking sorted on my '97 live axle. I also had the camber measured and it was minus 2 degrees on each wheel, whereas the assembly guide for my car says it should be plus 0.45 degrees.

    Am I right that the camber on the standard live axle cars cannot be adjusted? The car handles fine (well I think so) but I'm interested in understanding why mine is different to the AG settings?

    Also, I'm planning to replace the front dampers and (rusty) springs in the winter. What spring rate should I go for? Road use only.

    Jon

     

  8. Hi Tom - Hope my ramblings were of some little use. I'm a complete novice too having got the car in Sept so still learning from this forum (thanks to the likes of Tazio etc) and enjoying the process . Are you pleased with your X Flow? I am, if for no other reason than the noise! I found mine popped and banged a bit but I've started to use 97 octane fuel (lots of...) and balanced the carbs (which is v easy) which has made it happier. Going to tackle the timing next...

    I was going to ask if you ever drove through Caledonia ON as we have family there and visited a few years back, but having looked on the map you're several hours away - hard for us small islanders to appreciate how big Canada is. 

  9. Tom, to fill - with engine cold, just remove the pressure cap from the thermostat/filler housing and fill up to the lip (ie the ledge where the cap sits on). A couple of squeezes on the top rad hose just to expel any air and then replace the cap.

    The hose in my catch tank is notched at the end too - now I know why! 

    NS - assuming you have the correct pressure cap, it will allow water back in as the system cools. There is a seal on the back face of the central sprung plunger I recall so as the pressure drops that will open and syphon coolant back in (...or air if the catch tank is empty).

  10. Hi Tom - I assume you have a catch tank just behind the rad on the nearside front with a small diameter expansion hose running to it from the thermostat housing  - and got no leaks?

    I have the same system on my 1600 X flow and when I bought the car last year spend a lot of time on this forum reading posts about X Flow overheating and converting to a sealed system although a lot of those seemed to relate to cars taken on track (which mine isn't)

    I gave the issue a lot of thought - the problem with an open system is that coolant is discharged when hot but as the engine cools it will draw back in air through the expansion hose  so you appear to loose coolant until the level drops to the point that the water no longer expands out - and you cant see any coolant when you open the thermostat housing.

    So I tried an experiment - I brimmed the system, cleaned the thermostat cap really well (both seals) and then put a couple of inches of coolant into the catch tank so that the end of the expansion pipe was always under water. That way as the engine cools it pulls back in coolant, not air.

    1500 miles later I've not had to top up the system and try not to open the thermostat housing too often to avoid breaking the seal. Before each run I tend to squeeze the radiator top hose to make sure there is water in there - you can hear the little widget in the small bypass hole rattle if there is water in there when you squeeze the hose. 

    I tend to leave the heater valve open when I park the car up too to make sure the coolant all contracts evenly.

    I took the car to Shelsley recently and had no overheating issues. It had a nice new ali rad just after I bought it and my bigger problem is over cooling on cold days.

    Just my experience but might be worth a try before you consider any more major replumbing?

     

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