L66TEY

Hi Paul,

I'll PM you with details. 

Chris 

Ah, I see (no pun intended) 

Thank you Gents. 

I've subsequently decided to go for the refurb approach. 

Although whilst looking for replacement ones on CC Parts website I located this "support". 

As I have lowered floors and don't have these "support" plates Im now convinced the reason for the runners being so stiff and difficult to adjust, is not due to the runners themselves - but instead down to the fact they appear to be touching the angled wall of the lowered floor hence it's the metal to metal friction that is causing the runners to appear jammed. 

Having test fitted the runners back in with some washers to space the runners off the floor by circa 2mm they are no longer stiff to operate. 

Hopefully this info will help others to resolve the ever jamming seat runners   

Chris 

Hi Paul,

I may know of one becoming available - let me check for you. 

Chris 

Is this reg for sale or wanted?

FYA R300SPB is also for sale. 

The seat runners on my 2010 R300 are looking worse for wear and were not moving until I unbolted them and gave them some WD40 to assist them. 

Whilst they are now functional, the paint has come off them, hence was looking to refurb them. 

But to do that I need to figure out how to separate the top and bottom. 

Hence, does anyone know the method/ technique to "split" them open?

With thanks

Chris 

Wish I could help with some words of wisdom, but unfortunately I cant. 
I had mine off to powder coat, but it went straight back on. 

Without second guessing the worst, ie a bent frame - I'd be asking Caterham some questions. 

Hope you get it sorted in time for the pending track day. 

Chris 

Stock image of the Immobiliser for reference

The 4x wires from the immobiliser ECU are all black to the two connectors, noting the aerial has a male connector and the led has a female connector. 

The two wires for the aerial are black and black/white with a female connector. 

The two wires for the led are black and black with white intermittent line with a male connector

Now resolved 

For future reference;

1) Wires from grommet are aerial
2) Wires from front end of tunnel are led

The connector on the left hand side is the aerial connector, the one on the right is the led connector. 


 

But having thought about it logically, I've not checked if the led flashes when I press the "Start" button. 
If it does, by process of elimination the two wires must be the aerial wires. 
 

My concern is the wires could be for the led, hence would like confirmation somehow of whether the wires that enter via the grommet are aerial loop wires or for the led??

Reply to #2

Im certain it's Immobiliser related as the wires go into the tunnel and not into the harness. 
 

Reply to #3

Sounds like a good idea - put which wires do I connect to what, as the wires going into the connector are both black?

Or does it not matter for this circuit, ie aerial?

With thanks

Chris 

Please could someone help with confirming the wiring for the wires which unfortunately were pulled out when I removed the tunnel. 

Its only two wires that I need clarification on, hence 50/50 getting it right. 

Please see pics, which connector side should each of the wires go into;

Black Wire
Black/White

The Immobiliser is a Sterling passive immobiliser fitted to a 2010 R300, the wires in question come out of the underside of the tunnel via a grommet  

With thanks

Chris

Looks like a handy tool. 

Hence wanting to source a 21mm version, but what is this widget called?

With thanks

Chris

Further more - the Diff is coming out of a R300 (Duratec)

#45

Good point, the housing is stamped with "362".
 

#43

So did I, but their get out of jail card is that the warranty only applies to the first owner 

Am now of the mindset to get it fixed and sell it, as ATBs are great for road use - whereas I need a more track focused Diff. 

So if anyone knows of someone looking to buy a Quaife ATB Diff for a Ford Housing - please send them my way. 

With thanks

Chris 

......so after having resorted to what felt like a quite "strong persuasion" approach, Quaife have advised they are able to repair the ATB themselves, but will not supply the required parts for a third party to fit.

#40
Hi Geoff,

Your timing is impeccable, I've literally just put the phone down from checking stock with Steve :D 

In regards to Quaife - this may deserve a fresh thread - but as it stands I've been advised that Quaife are no longer willing to supply single parts to repair their own products - they are only interested in selling complete Diffs! 

Next phone call to be made is to Quaife........

Thought I might as well reignite this thread to provide an update. 

After some deliberating In the end I decided to take the Diff out, and it is presently with R&R. 

But it unfortunately appears that Quaife don't presently have stock of the required part. 

Additionally, having read the numerous posts on "LSD" and considering my liking of track days - Im leaning towards swapping the ATB out for a TracSport (though need to find some funds). 

If I do, I'll be selling a rebuilt ATB Diff, hence please let me know if this is of interest?

Having created a hole, the irony is I now need to fill it. 
For this I've turned to CAD (both the Cardboard and Computer Aided Design variety). 
Here's the work in progress laptop CAD

;

I've scrapped the idea of using 3D printed plastic, due to the firewall requirement, instead opting for 2mm sheet. 

Chris 

And the cutting continued to this point

Hi David,

Suggest worth contacting Joe at KrossstitchUK, he might have one. 

Chris 

Pedal box modifications have commenced.....

Chris