jcerier

Makes sense, though my block is steel so I assume aluminium wouldn't be a good option on that side.

What particular sealant would folks recommend to seal the plugs when I insert them?

Philip - thanks! I'll look into those clamps.

Good point re. the loose bits. I actually thought of a way to install the standard plugs. Either a rod with a sliding cylinder on it, to use as a slide hammer to press them both in, or alternately a threaded rod, nuts and fender washers, to press each cap in simultaneously, as the nuts are rotated to push both caps away from each other. That would result in the caps being pressed in perfectly flush. Lucky that both holes are on center with each other.

I'm thinking that given the limited access I have (I wouldn't be able to swing a hammer within the space I have to work), plugs like this in the correct sizes might be a good option for me: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-rubber-expansion-plug-3-4-in-size-range-3-4-in-7-8-in-02608/89014938-P Thoughts?

Thanks so much - such a wealth of information here. My engine is dry-sumped. Any recommendation for how to block off the opening in the head and the block where that hose currently is? What parts to use, and how to install them?

Got it - thanks. Obviously not required in my engine without a mechanical fuel pump.

Wow that picture is like BDA engine porn. Looks like you could eat off that engine. I don't think I have the dark part that I see sandwiched under your fuel pump block-off plate. Know anything about that? I'll get in touch with Tony Ingram, and look into plugging those holes. Interesting.

Update: Through the winter I successfully sealed up my oil tank and sump. Both of those seem to be oil-tight at this point. I still have two areas of significant oil leakage. #1 appears to be the head to block breather tube on the right side of the engine, just above the blanking plate that covers the spot where a mechanical fuel pump would mount. It is a short, fat, conical tube. #2 appears to be the oil breather/drainback hoses at the front left corner of the engine. These are all shown in the following images: I think I can get good enough access to these to replace them without pulling the engine. Questions, for anyone who knows these (BDA/BDR) engines: - Can I replace #1 without removing the head? - If I go to all of the work to replace these, is there a way to be sure that they are sealed leak-tight? Use some kind of sealant? - Any other advice? I'll likely call Dave Bean Engineering here in the States, but thought there might be some folks on this forum who can share wisdom from their experience. Thanks in advance, and stay safe everyone.

Still figuring out how to work this forum. Looks like a reply to a specific post doesn't quote the post I'm replying to. Thanks for the input everyone. Luckily my top-end is dry. I don't see any oil anywhere around where the head mates with the block. I'm thinking that the most likely source of most of my leaking is the sump, so the advice on how to install will be very valuable - thanks so much. So I'll probably do the sump gasket, make sure my oil tank is leaktight, and then put it all back together and see where I'm at.

Awesome - thanks

Nice - is there a way to download that?

Do you mean a BDA assembly guide?

Hi everyone. First-time post from a new US member. My car is a 1997 Caterham regular size chassis, with a dry-sumped, 4-year-ago built 1700 BDA/BDR engine. The engine sat for a while before I bought the car, and now leaks lots of oil - like tablespoons, not drips. Some of it is from the oil tank, and I should be able to track that down and fix that. Some of it is in the area of the two vertical hoses at the front left of the engine - the hoses that run from the head to the block. Oil return hoses, I think? One is rubber, one is braided stainless. Both use Oetiker hose clamps on both ends. I was planning to remove and replace those hoses, but based on how tight the space is and the type of clamps I might pass on this. I don't think I can get the tool in there with the engine in the car. Thoughts? It also might be leaking around the oil pan gasket, so I plan to pull the pan and replace that. I am considering installing an oil check valve, like this, to keep oil from flowing from the tank back into the engine when at rest: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...BoCmMEQAvD_BwE It just seems like the oil flows back to the engine and finds lot of places to leak out. This is a high quality part (and priced accordingly), which is used in the Porsche world. Thoughts? Also thoughts on other common leak points in BDA/BDR/crossflow engines? I am wondering, from people's experience with BDA or even crossflow engines: Am I better off to just pull the engine to get at all of the areas that I have to access? Thanks in advance everyone.