BeingOriginal

Thanks again for everyone's help, bolt successfully extracted, ordered replacement bolts and diff struts today so I should be back on the road by the weekend.

Sheared bolt exposed and center punched ready for some new left handed drill bits, fingers crossed it behaves.

This was checked less than 500 miles ago, but I'll paint mark and check more frequently going forwards, I'll check if I've got the right grade bolt if not the pack from redline sounds a good idea.

This looks exactly like my situation only the end of offending broken bolt has already gone somewhere.

Thanks for everyone's help, I think the way forward is removing the bolt the other side and trying to swing the diff out to ease access to it, none of the bolt is left in the bush thankfully.

At my service we unfortunately noticed the rear right bolt pictured supporting the diff has broken. I’ll be adding the strut supports to prevent it happening again. Any opinions on if it's possible to extract the bolt in situ with an easy out or is this definitely a diff out job? I know a few have suffered the same failure. Thanks

Thanks, I think If I moved to a 11" fan I'd mount it lower on the radiator so it should give me plenty of room even if I moved to one of the thicker anti roll bars.

I assumed that might be prohibitively expensive vs the other options?

Thanks, I'll lookup the dimensions of an 11" model to check clearance. Reading around there's a question If I even need the front ARB as lots of people don't run them.

My car currently isn't running a front ARB due to a lack of space, the car was originally an HPC retrofitted with a Duratec so doesn't have the cowling setup, it's running a 13" fan. What's my best plan of action please? Fit a smaller 10/11" fan that should free up enough space? Add some bigger spacers for the rad to move everything forward another 1.5 inches? Fit my existing fan on the other side of the radiator?Picture for reference ​

I missed out on that one sadly.

Does anyone have the above before I have my old set powder coated?

Thanks all, it looks like I’ll be good to go when the wiring loom is finished next week.

Thanks Jonathan, I’ve covered those so I’ll try to find the recent thread about cranking the engine without plugs. Any opinions about the fuel?

My Duratec car has been Sat up in the garage since October, I wanted to check if there’s anything else I should be considering before starting please? I’ll get some new fuel (should I drain anything remaining?) Battery has has been on a conditioner Car has new oil and coolant a month before storage, I’ll put a new set of plugs in.Looking forward to getting out in it again. kind regards Dan

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a crossflow please? kind regards Dan

The wiring behind isn’t as neat (but I’m working on this) let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks for the reply Paul Resistor is definitely brown but clearly hasn't photographed well. car is fully dissembled and I’ve been photographing and dynamo labelling everything as I go, it was my fear that I’d never be able to fault find an issue that started the project!

As part of the winter tidy up I’m having a look at the wiring in the car. To give some background the car had a new crossflow loom plus scholar engine loom matched to a dash2 dash when it was rebuilt, it has no screen and a very simple dash layout and as such there’s quite a lot of redundant wiring. My aim is to remove everything unnecessary, put a couple of neater solutions in place for things like resistors and also fit a lambda sensor. I’m not 100% confident with wiring (keen to learn more) but wanted to know what others have done, I’m happy to pay for someone’s time or find a recommended mobile automotive electrician to go through and check everything if that’s the way to go. I’ve already resolved some obvious things but below are some examples of things I still need to sort. 300ohm resistor to allow dash to read signal

Hey Shaun, I have the Dash2 in my car and you're right the 260mm Momo does partially obscure the shift lights (I'm 5'10 sitting in Tillets for reference) my car has a set of DRE shift lights to fix this.

I'll install a Lambda sensor as part of revisiting all the wiring over winter and take it to road n' track, longer term I'll pick up an old laptop to run Easimap, thanks for the help.

Thanks John You're right that the car is a hybrid of sorts, originally a 93 HPC it wen't back to Arch for a refresh, engine spec is Scholar 2.0, Omega pistons, arrow rods, Piper BP300, Jenveys etc etc, made 268bhp at track n' road so a fairly high spec engine. I have the correct connector for it at home but only have machines running Windows 10 and Mac OS sadly. Not sure whats involved in adding a Lambda sensor?

Thanks for all the information everyone. I spent some time checking the car over the weekend only to find it has no lamba sensor! With regards the ECU while I have a laptop with a serial port, it's not running XP, I think it'll now be a case of taking it to the 2 Steve's (who mapped it previously) in Spring so they can look at it.

FYI just checked the spec of the Scholar supplied engine in my car and I have the MBE 967 ECU

Thanks for the responses everyone, I believe I have the correct cable so I'll download the software. I may well be back for some help interpreting any numbers!