Baggiebird

Now have gear on loan from John - brilliant *thumbup*

Hi, I don't have any of the models you are considering however for the use that you propose the Duratec has to be the way to go. Cruising longer distances will be more pleasant - however all Sevens are loud :-) You will enjoy spec'ing it and building it. One thing I think you will notice too (on all of them?) if you have never had a Seven or Seven-like vehicle before, is the amount of transmission and differential related noise/lack of refinement - but most of them have it to a greater or lesser degree. It is something you don't notice at first, and it depends what else you drive or have driven, but after a while you do. With a differential bolted to a lightweight chassis it is very difficult to control effectively and part of the character of the cars. Sorry if I am telling you things that you know already.

John (and JK), Thanks for this, I have sent a BM to John

Guy, Thanks for this. I was aware of some of the previous failures and can see that the newer cars, eg metric chassis, appear to have a further strengthened underslung mounting point. My car (late 1996) has the later de-dion with the wider lower triangular section to take the A frame bushing, which I would like to keep, if ever I need to change it. I think the photograph you show is the earlier pre-1996 de-dion, which also has the central mounting point, but probably lacks the lower one. I've has reassurance from a reputable source that the only difference in the nitron dampers for either mounting is the length of the interchangeable lower mounting on the damper, so there are always options. It is probably more difficult for a low volume manufacturer to eliminate all potential failure modes early in production runs I guess, though I would rather have a de-dion that is a few kg heavier and doesn't fail!!

I have just changed a fuel gauge on a 1996 car. The face had cracked away from the body. I thought it may have been overtightened in the dash at some point. I also changed O rings on several gauges. Caerbont were able to supply a compatible gauge which fitted and were extremely helpful. I was disappointed the original had failed but then 23 years old, vibration and the plastic and the rubber O ring had aged, as expected.

Stuart, Thanks and I have edited to add this info'

I plan to fit K Series vernier pulleys soon. I don't have the necessary dial gauges and brackets. I have changed a K series, and other, cam belts before and I have read Dave Andrew's guide. Does anyone have the necessary gauges, stands, probes and brackets that they would be prepared to hire to me. I would be happy to pay a reasonable charge, and deposit against safe undamaged return. Alternatively I could donate to charity of choice as agreed. I'm not an apprentice trained mechanic but I have done a lot of work on all sorts of tin tops and classic/sports cars in the last 45 years. I live in Herefordshire.

Nick, interesting. Happy with mine so far but will keep trying to improve it as you do. My sump clearance is nearer 90mm but I'm on 185/70 x 13 tyres. This is needed in Herefordshire where the road surfaces have been allowed to become awful. 'A' roads have potholes that you would have expected on 'B' or 'C' roads 20 years ago. Even worse for cyclists and motorcyclists though. It would be nice to know more about the effects of the lower damper mounting position on the de-dion and why one position might be better than the other when they are only 30-40 mm apart?

Neil, Elie, thanks for the thoughts. I tried it with ballast as you would if you were doing a flat floor set up. Not that I have ever had one, but plan to before long.

Dave, Good to meet you and Mrs Dave in Ledbury earlier to pick up the SBFS Re-Bag. Many thanks and happy motoring!! Andrew

Update to my request above. I managed to obtain some 1/2'' UNF x 5" high tensile bolts together with locking nuts and washers and used these to attach the bottom of the dampers to the centre of the de-dion tube through the mounting tube that was used prior to 1996. I discussed with Nitron, they confirmed that the difference in length between dampers specified for the central or lower mounts, which I think is around 30-40mm is achieved by the difference in mounting . The damper body is the same length for both versions. I am happy to be using the central mount as to my eyes it would appear to be stronger. I don't think that the later de dion tubes have two mount positions? I completed the installation work by setting the ride height with a 15mm rake, higher at the rear and with the front wishbones near to parallel with a flat (or nearly flat!) garage floor. I now plan to have the suspension geometry checked as part of a flat floor type set up, once the car as been driven a bit to bed in the new components. See photograph

Dave, Hi, you have a BM.

Hi. I would like to sense check what I'm thinking of doing at the rear of my late 1996 De-Dion car. To cut a long story short I wanted to replace the dampers and springs on all four corners. All were OE from 1996, so non-adjustable Bilsteins. As they are 23 years old, it seemed the most sensible option. I was tempted to keep the car OE, so new Bilsteins with adjustable platforms. In the end I decided to treat me and the car to Nitron NTR R1 1 way adjustables. I exchanged e mails with Simon and received some very useful advice at the same time. I took Simon's advice on the spring selection for road use (200 ib/in front and 130 ib/in rear, but decided eventually that I would obtain the set direct from Nitron, I will come back to that point though. When I specified the kit (Narrow Track De-Dion), I looked at the car first and as the rear mount for the damper on the de-dion tube seemed to be in the centre, I asked for that option. Bassically there were two options, lower mount or mid tube. Of course, that was incorrect! The lower mount of the rear dampers is welded to the underside of the de-dion tube. About 30mm above it is where the dampers used to be mounted, up to, I think early 1996. So on my car, in the event, I have the later de-dion tube, with the wider triangular gusset and mount for the A frame. This has two possible mounting positions for the rear dampers. As a result, I have ordered, and been provided with, dampers that fit the top to centre mount dimension. Dampers were mounted in this way on the early de-dion cars, then the lower mount was moved, I think to allow Bilstein dampers with increased gas capacity, in 1996. Going back to Nitron NTR RI dampers. It seems to me that the only difference between those specified for the centre mount, and the lower mount, is the length of the lower mounting eye. The damper body, and therefore the piston travel, is the same. There is only 30mm difference in overall length between the dampers specified for the two positions. See photographs: The above photograph shows the unused centre mount and the currently used lower mount, viewed from the rear of the car. The above photograph shows the Nitron damper specified for middle mount fitting. The lower mount, just below the adjuster ring, is shorter that the mount for the lower position would be. Nitrons mount 'upside down' depending on how you define that! The above photograph shows the lower mount in close up. I now have a dilemma, of sorts. I have fitted the front dampers with no apparent issues. It seems as though, once I have obtained the correct 1/2" UNF x 5" tensile bolts, I can fit the above Nitron dampers and springs to the centre mount in the de-dion tube. Alternatively I could ask Nitron to change the lower mounts for the longer ones and then continue to use the lower mounting position. I am though attracted to the centre mount option. There will be no change, I don't think, in suspension travel, and the centre mount seems potentially stronger, given that over the years there have been some failures of de-dion tubes and damper mounts. The drawback might be, though, that if the de-dion tube ever needed changing, the newer tubes do not have the centre mounting hole, and a wider triangular gusset. I dare say that Arch Motors could help with that though, if needed. What I am after, if possible, is reassurance that I haven't missed something obvious?! I said above that I would return to how I obtained the Nitron damper set. I did ask Simon (Rogers) for advice, and I'm certain that Simon would know the answer but as I didn't obtain the kit from him I haven't asked directly. My thinking there is that when I have had chance to use the car with the new dampers and springs, there will at some point be a need for either overhaul of the dampers of maybe modification. If that eventuates I will no doubt be asking Simon. Any advice gratefully received!!

Thanks, I have sent you a BM

Interested in the Re Bag, condition? Thanks

Fitted mine (1996 De Dion) and looks great. Needed a tiny bit of fettling of the handbrake steel with a file, near the gaiter, to ensure that the handle could slide on sufficiently.

Some good advice above. When I caravanned (!) I used to put the winter wheels on which were 'triangular' stands, so putting the car on padded axle stands would be good, though it has to be said that Caterhams are very light even compared to touring caravans. A decent battery charger, noting what has been said,would be a good investment. I do have a dehumidifier but don't use it all the time. Garages can often be damp places, even though we don't notice. If you have a cover, make sure it is a non-absorbing synthetic fabric. Unless you can ensure that the engine is thoroughly warmed through I think the advice to minimise start-ups is sound. Worth keeping an eye out for rodents, depending on the location of course!

Out of interest what would the going rate be for this work (from Arch). Just interested.

Barry, Hi. Funnily enough I have just gone the in the other direction. As I don't plan much non-road use I have fitted a set of 13'' Revolution Minilite type wheels with 185/70 x 13 tyres. For me this has several advantages in steering response/feel/suspension compliance. You loose a bit of clearance despite theoretically the rolling radii being similar to the 205/45 x 16 that were, in my case, OE. This does leave me with a set of (5) 16'' HPC wheels though. They are 23 years old and have done 14000 miles only (can prove) There are minor marks but no scuffs and are complete with 4 centres and locking cover bolts and key. I have the wheel nuts also. BM me if you are interested?

Just fitted a pair of Lucas branded(LUHN 5 and LUHN 7) low and high tone horns. Apart from having to wire separate earth terminals rather than the horn case, an easy replacement. The snail shaped trumpet type cases give a much better tone and volume. Appear nicely made and not heavier than the OE 23 year old Lucas red pancake shaped items

Geoff, nice reminder. Luckily I don't feel too badly done to at £60 including carriage each in the sale!!

I have just fitted a new set of these, in this exact size. Looks like a bargain at around half price?!

I have had my 23 year old K Series Supersport about 2 months. It came with 16" HPC wheels which look nice but spoil the handling in my view, compared to my previous Sevens which had either 13" or 14" wheels. Steering was heavy and the car liked to tramline. Last week I noticed that Revolution Wheels were selling some 6J x 13 Classic Rally 8 spoke type wheels - look like Minilite or Superlight wheels for £60 each including carriage. I have no connection whatsoever with them. As luck would have it the wheels were available in 108mm pcd and ET 23 offset and so ideal for a standard narrow S3 Caterham. At present I don't envisage track use and so looked for tyres on that basis. I wanted to keep the ground clearance I had as near as possible (about 90mm under the sump) and I don't yet have adjustable platforms on the shock absorbers. I therefore looked for what I hoped would be decent tyres in 185/70 x 13 size. As the roads in Herefordshire are not great (an understatement) this tyre profile would also help compliance. Looking in the archives there were some good reports about Uniroyal Rain Expert tyres, which are T rated. I was OK with that as the car had 23 year old Michelin Pilots which were far from worn out, and I wanted a tyre which had some compliance and was OK in the cold and wet when necessary, though I try to use the car on dry days when possible. I have had the tyres fitted onto the rims today and then put them on the car. Steering feel is much improved and lighter as expected, ride quality has also improved. I will know more when the tyres have scrubbed in of course but so far so good. Running on 1.5 bar pressure at the moment.

Indeed. Funnily enough 23 year old tyres are legal on a car (MoT tester's manual) but not on certain classes of commercial vehicle. I have to say I was surprised.

I fitted the multi layer head gasket to an MG TF (2005) about 10 years ago. I used the genuine MG Rover X Part gasket and at the same time fitted the strengthened bearing ladder and new stretch bolts, again all genuine MG X Part supplied items. The job itself was fine, but access to the engine required a lot more preparatory work in the MG. I would have thought that the 1600/1800 MGF/TF genuine head gasket parts are interchangeable. There is plenty of advice on the web about the work but whatever you do, if you haven't locked the crank, don't turn the engine with the head off or you will disturb the liners. Apologies if you know all this. It is also worth fitting a new water pump at the same time as it is not an expensive item?