Petethediesel

Yes, think it is called Vintage Green. I do have a Lechler paint mix code as given to me by "Tony the brush" a year ago, if anyone wants it.

   I have just had some paintwork done on a front wing of my 2018 Caterham with the "Caterham Green solid colour. (B.R.G ).

  The colour match, to my untrained eye, is very good. For information, the paint was:

Mipa base coat, then colour code 0-6-170-4

Yes, I  use the corrosion block grease. Use it every time i split a connector/ protect battery terminals etc etc. Always on the shelf. I use the spray can and liquid ACF50. Another protective product to consider is XCP Professional rust blocker. A trigger spray bottle container, this is slightly thicker than ACF and does leave a slightly coloured film on the component, but has good staying power, 

    Like many motorcycle riders and 7 owners, salt gritters make me paranoid.

Thanks Alan. It's te fixing into the body that I have found weak. I'll speak to SBF7

Good point about hood tensioning. It's important to tension the four rear straps fully. Don't do this on the side straps as the poppers will pull out of the body!!, just consider these as positioning straps.

I've had my SBFS with double zips for a year and found it very good for heavy rain. After about half an hour there is the odd drip on the inside of the windscreen but that's about all. I also have the SFS draft excluder that fits between the headrests and find this makes a massive difference to backdraft water ingress. 

  Pete

Talk to Dave Gemzoe Motorport. He has researched many bulb solutions and sells the best option for about £35 a pair, Tel no 07884 432125.

Hi James, I had the same reading issues on my 2018 car and it was cured by sensor gap adjustment. The LED indicator is not easy to see . Its a low strength green coloured LED that glows from the end of the sensor, where the wires attach. I recall that the nominal setting was 1mm but mine worked best at 0.9mm, My speedo and milometer now read exactly as my GPS.

There are many different makes/types of film. Some are simple film and some are self healing. I have the latter and am pleased with it. Nothing will stop a bigger stone/rock from causing damage but these films are a big improvement on nothing. If you are anywhere near Hull I can thoroughly recommend Matt Vinyl Graphics who use 3M materials and have the templates for 7's (wings/sides/etc).

          Pete

The designers and manufacturers of all Lumenition products are Autocar Electrical Equipment Ltd in London DE1. Tel 020 74034334.

Sorted it, found my old (very old, like me) NPT thread gauges, 

For the record it is 1/8 " NPT. 

             Cheers

               Pete

Just a quick one please gents. What is the thread on the water temp switch as fitted in the submarine "T"? Looks like either 1/8BSPT or 1/8 NPT.

    Thanks

              Pete

It is the latest type with the black float but both mine and CTR Mint's pump assy have the float extending in the opposite direction. I doubt there would be enough clearance if the float was pointing to the nearside tank wall.

Actually the float goes in the opposite direction, but yes, it strikes the front of the tank if wrongly positioned. The fuel outlet fitting must be parallel to the F and R tank sides.

This broadly reflects my findings. For sure the latest spec triangular main oil tank of around 7.5 litrs capacity is a large heat sink right up front in the airflow. I'm going to re pipe to isolate the cooler or fit a thermostatic valve that cuts in at 80C. 

   Pete

Good day gentlemen,

   I have a 2018 spec 360 with a dry sump system. It is fitted with the latest spec 420 combined rad/oil cooler which I think was originally fitted on race spec R400's.

   I have fitted the temp switch in the tank through to a toggle switch on the dash and then to the water gauge,  so I can switch between oil/water temps. In yesterday's ambient of 10C and in normal, quickish when you can, road driving, the tank temp was about 55C max. Even allowing for the oil to be a good 5C above this when exiting the oil pump pressure side, it's still well below the ideal 90/100C. Not entirely linear but I'd expect this to be improved to around 75C in a 30C ambient.

  Today I blanked off the oil cooler front and did the same run (10C ambient again). Oil raised to a max of 70 C at the tank, so still lower than I would like. Potentially 90 C oil tank temp in a 30C ambient. Sure on track would be higher, but with the car doing mostly road driving my questions are this:

Does anyone have part numbers/source for a an in line thermostat controlled bypass unit? 

What temps are others seeing on a similar set up?

Thanks

My new 360 has the latest spec sintered plate lsd and certainly displays a good "clunk" on torque reversal. As mentioned previously, it is solid mounted, so inevitably noisy.

 The grease splatter is normal, most of us will add more grease than is actually needed when pumping  at service intervals to be sure it's at the max. Consider it chassis corrosion protection!

  I'd be confident to drive it and wait for the check at your dealer come 1000 miles..

A little late catching up with this post. Well done Mark, congratulations on both the test pass and your will power to complete the build.

  As a suggestion, I have found the half hood with "easy in" from Softbits is great choice. So much easier to enter/exit. Adding the rear diffuser (goes behind the headrests) makes the ingress of rain mist minimal. 

             Enjoy

Great to see the project completed Mark. Truly your car, well done.

   I completely agree with your comments on the 7 Club. The most helpful and supportive I have ever experienced, with an exceptional range of events.

         Enjoy the ride.

               Pete

I'm insured with A Plan and they gave me cover to drive to and from the test centre based on the VIN number. They issued specific docs to do this so that, if stopped, I could evidence insurance.

 If it had failed, but not for a dangerous fault, I could have driven home.

  After the test I just called them with the registration number and the policy was converted. All the above within the std policy cost.

From the dashboard to the back of the steering wheel (back as in nearest the dash) its near enough 90mm. 

  Very nice to use it is too.

I think you are right in that my new build had plenty of thread on the outside, with the correct air gap, and a readable glow at the union. 

I think you are right in that my new build had plenty of thread on the outside, with the correct air gap, and a readable glow at the union. 

Many thanks Mike,

Evening all

       I'm running in my 360 SV (with a Mazda 5 speed box). My rev counter isn't working and needs a re flash by connection to Caterham (i'm advised). 

  Meantime I'm taking it easy, with progressive load etc, but clearly making educated guess on revs. 

 Can anyone with a similar spec car advise the speed in 3rd 4th and 5th at 4000 rpm please?

    Many thanks