auyt

Interesting thread, if this helps anyone my 7 has a freshly rebuilt 1968 Lotus Twin Cam. At the suggestion of the engine builder I’m using Evans.

I had read and heard of issues with race engines running Evens due its viscosity , but after covering 200miles I have had no issues. And yes I have 1 litre just in case.

Mine is set it up with an overflow and the level does change but by a very small amount if at all.

And as an added precaution against TC water pump issues it’s fitted with a Davis Craig electric coolant pump love how it works and manages the system.

PM sent

?This style of joint?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/For-BMW-E46-320i-323Ci-328Ci-M3-Lower-Flexible-Steering-Shaft-Coupling-Assy-OES/170709274382?hash=item27bf10cf0e:g:GfYAAOSw2IVbYY01&vxp=mtr

Anodising and chrome are porous and bare ally all should have a few coats of carnauba wax from new.

It could be the battery terminals terminals but from what you have said it ran yesterday.

as a friend found recently AGM batteries don’t die like lead acid, they will charge but not hold the charge and don’t have any cracking amps even when it reads 12v... bit confusing and very annoying.

As for the fuel, if you are concerned there is a fuel stabiliser which stops the phase out, generally high octane fuel has shelf life of 3 months.

If the storage it is going to be a long period, I would suggest an oil change, helps protect bearings from corrosion. 

The guys on F....I chat in the US have extensive discussions about winter lay-up.

Funny I was just looking for BRG codes, who manufacturers the paint?
 

I have it in the back of my mind Derek Batty posted a Search format for us to use but as usual I cannot find it*tumbleweed*

Filters vary in fairly generic sizes, ie the thread, the outer diameter of the seal and the length.

Take the HALFORDS part number and Google what it fits and go from there, and look for cross refernce pages there are quite a few.

Happy hunting.

I have had some good success with product. The Key is do small areas with the Deoxidizer first and before it dries use the polish, then use a microfiber cloth to clean of the surface. even the Anodised screen comes up nicely

Then finish it with a Carnauba wax to seal it.

Works a treat!  thanks Anthony

There is a video on you tube by the guy from AMMO about cleaning the rear window of a soft top BMW, sorry I can’t find the actual video but this is the link to his site. ( I’m on holidays in China and YouTube is blocked by the Government ) 

https://www.ammonyc.com/

Reading this I cannot help but ask what chassis and gearbox is the issue related to? As there is a difference in access from an S3 to an SV. As The S3 is fully sheeted underneath an an SV is open

MY S3 is a pain but welded on all steal lock nuts worked and bolts from underneath.

Thanks for the link, I did look at these, however if there wasn’t a bearing available it would be a option, there is and I’m happy with the original setup.

I don’t expect a problem, the best bit is there is a bearing available. 

My bearing place found these

http://bearingsize.info/catalogue-online/tapered-roller-bearings/bearing-4t-03062-03162-ntn-obj159370.html

I am yet to fit them, the only difference is the assembled thickness .06 mm thinner. It might need a shim behind the cone.

The Link alone will be useful for chasing other bearings

Sadly the upgrade is only available for the Ford PCD.

I have Bearings on order and will post the info when I get them.

Yes Chris has the kits for the Ford PCD Just waiting to hear if he has the 3-3/4 PCD kits
 

Thanks guys I will look into the upgrade it, 

The KOYO Bearing parts numbers don’t appear on the KOYO web page or the international bearing data base that accessed by those who pay for it. 

I am probably rehashing a previous post, but the search engine turned up zilch.

have been chasing new front wheel bearings for my 85 Caterham. The originals are KOYO  pno. 03052 and 03152. After some frustration of buying Triumph units I discover that the bearing are specific to Caterham..gurrr.

how have others tackled this as Caterham don’t have any.

POR15 is good product on an etched surface is great and has gloss finish. Also buy only what you need, as it goes off in the tin once opened.  And spillage around the lip of the can, can make the lid almost impossible to get off, the after the first use, don’t bother on the second attempt you will destroy the lid getting it off.

The Eastwood product when applied looks more like a powder coat finish

I can vouch for the Eastwood Chassis paint.

I’ve tried the POR 15 it needs to be warm weather and it tends to get bubbles when applied with a brush and doesn’t stick to a shinny surface, it peals of like tape.

While this threat is running, I'd like comments/ suggestions about 185 60 14s Please.

I like GJT want to wear tyres out not throw them away,

my 85 7 has NEXEN CP661s, never heard of them until i bought the car , Their made in Korea, so Wiki tells me 

A friend uses Yokohama AE01s but there unobtainium in 185 60 14

Thoughts greatly appreciated

In all the pictures Ive seen the solid mounted, my thinking is as long as the hose vibration is isolated from the cooler that removes the probability.

Classic aircraft engines the coolers are solid mounted to the engines but they do have diagonal bracing on the cooler. I've ordered a Mocal cooler, and even though I wasn't going to run one, its a OH well the options available and its easy to do now.

Magic thanks for the link, I had a look in the Mocal listing and didn’t see that size.interesting Burton’s recommend rubber mounting it, given the distance from the motor I would have thought it not necessary.

Does anyone know what the optional oil cooler was for S3 Chassis, or at least what fits?

The mounts have holes 8” apart which doesn’t match any oil coolers I’ve found, and rather than move the mounts, I thought I’d investigate what the original fitment was fist, I using -10 fittings.