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Good to know, and thanks for the links they are good read, Im a member of the Elan site. And just as well I asked before I started.

I havnt actually done the conversion, But I do have the necessry conversion parts, Gear change extension, the alloy top cover and a competition shifter, the other things are the shortened tail shaft, and the Angle drive for th speedo.

I wasnt aware there was a need for a differnt pressure plate? I though it was the same as the one fitted to my engine which is a Lotus Twin Cam

Hi This might help Curtsey of the Tony Weale Book

The other aspect of the 123 unit is they are new and there is no load od in the shaft so the timing is more consistent. It also allows 0 advance on start and a rev limiter

Guys I not sure why anyone would use any of these old style systems. I had similar issues as being discussed and swapped to a 123 Ignition blue tooth unit on my TwinCam. Enter the Map on a app on your phone to match the dizzy timing spec. Magic thing you can set the cranking static to zero, easy start, has rev limiter and you can turnoff the dizzy as anti theft.

I'm considering changing the gear box to the 5 speed however the chassis would need considerable mods, however has any one done this mod or is it worth considering a different gearbox.

yes there's  are lots to change, I'm not naive to what's involved. Just looking for alternative gearboxes.

Here we go again, I have a friend with a 88 Super Sprint De Dion FORD PCD. who wants a a set of 5 Jupiter wheels

Good insight.

I do have a a compatible clutch.

This car is an Australian delivered Kit  with a 4 speed Escort box ( sadly not a rocket box) and has a specially designed extension change which is listed in the manual.

A Tunnel Top cover? 

Hi all is there a link to the mods needed to convert a 1985 S3 4 speed chassis to a 5 speed.

I am quite aware that there are significant mods need to the chassis, and I have no issue tackling the job

I have T9 with gear change extension and I know I need a Speedo angle drive and prop shaft I have have a friend with a latter 5 speed gear so I have a bit of an idea.

I looking for some tech drawings including actual tube size and locations.

Longer the better for torque. The Airfilter is more of a governor of the length. as there needs to be 1" clearance from the end plate, say on a K&N.

Pleased you checked.

Olgawld, hang on a sec, classic forged pistons ran large clearances due to the allow please check with the manufacturer other wise the engine will rattle all the time.
The alloy used in new forged pistons especially JE and I suspect other manufactures do also, have the same expansion rate of cast pistons, and there for a .0025" skirt clearance.
Trust me I got caught on a classic Maserati V8 fitted with JE pistons. I finished having the pistons stuff coated to reduce the clearance to 3 thou. 

I agree the opportunity to warm brakes is not always possible, where I live which is effectively like an English village I dont hove the time to focus on warming brakes before I need them.

I've had a suggestion from a friend who runs an exceptionally quick Elan and single seater Elfin, that the 1144 Mintex pads are what he uses exclusively. Seems I have a bit to play with.

Good insight into the Pagid pads, my experience with a 205 GTI pug echos your comments. I prefer not to have to warm brakes but I will keep them in mind.

Good plan, it's not until I describe the system and especially your input, that it become obvious. The car was built in Australia so I'm not sure what the rear axle brake slave cylinder are. Did the Uk have a 6 cylinder engine in what I know as a Leyland Marina?

Yep inline V45, lives in front of the pedal box (RHD) , yes tracked all the lines and yes definitely only fronts, and it's only boosts the front line from a tandem master.
I did consider removing it but I figured Id try it before removing it. And it only puts in a small amount of boost, and it could have been installed due th brake balance being out and I also learnt a lady used to drive the car and I can only gather it was at here request.

It could be depriving the force to the rear and hence the fronts are getting hotter than they should, food for thought. Might try taking the vacuumed off and doing some test brakes, to see it the rear lock first. 

So your front discs are 9" with grooves machines into the surface  yes

Calipers stock cast iron 2 piston (Triumph spitfire)  yes

 live axle with drums..yes

and one other thing a bake booster on the front, I didn't fit it but the brake balance seems to work.

Jonathan thanks for the link.

elie , the mintex are also of interest. And the upgraded brakes are definitely a consideration and something to investigate further.

The passes (4) near me are have short distances between tight turns, huge fun but busy the YouTube videos don't do it justice.

The fluid is only 12 months old as I had rebuilt the calipers and replaced all the flex lines with Caterham braided hoses.

I use my car mainly for road use however recently on a spirited down hill mountain pass run the fronts lost most of their grip. They came good once cooled. 
The brakes at the front are all new with slotted rotors, I'm not sure what the pads sorry, are but they obviously not up to my occasional mountain run.

some reasurch suggests DS2500 but that was a few years ago has what have others found?

Just a thought have you considered one or two straps with a cam lock or similar

Welcome.

Yes they leak, not uncommon especially on BDA/BDR/TC's . as they have a common block.

Best thing is the give it a really good clean and that will help with location, run the engine until it gets how don't drive it and a good look with a torch and a mirror. From my experience leaks can appear to come from one place and originate else where for example

Cam cover gaskets is a key area.

My TC dry sump pump was leaking at mount face, read the hardest one to get at needed 1/8th of turn leak stopped weeping.

Check the oil lines

Around the front L/H side of the head and the gasket from the front case to the head is another area.

an often forgotten place is the oil filter

The Oil tank can be just spillage that works it way down to the mount.

Chicargo bolts are the answer and they come in a range of sizes and finishes. like these

https://www.ebay.com.au/i/254288461717?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254288461717&targetid=469489664298&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071932&poi=&campaignid=7408627107&mkgroupid=86410135848&rlsatarget=pla-469489664298&abcId=1139226&merchantid=119083137&gclid=CjwKCAjw0vTtBRBREiwA3URt7mGZ3Jknj79OxW-PUZZnbB7oEgonUstBaISmB15cwR0Rxtays4o9TxoCmQ0QAvD_BwE

About the only thing that I would like is a hand throttle on start to hold the idle at 500 rpm.