Weavie

I have fitted new 40DCOEs to my 1700 Crossflow and I need someone to sort them out properly re jetting, etc. Can anyone recommend someone to do this, ideally in the Dorset/Devon area? I have found two places so far, one in Yate and the other in Barnstaple but wondered if there was anyone closer?

It was running okay but a bit lumpy in the hot weather. I changed the plugs from NGK BPR6ES to NGK B8ECS, thinking this would help. It started up like a bag of nails and then died and hasn't woked since despite reverting to the BPR6ES plugs. That was the only change I made prior to the fault.

I cannot get my Xflow to fire up and I have checked the fuel supply and all okay. I can see that there is no spark at the plugs (1&4 at least). Replaced the coil and the distributor and cap is new having been fitted by Lloyds Performance in Warminster three months ago. Replaced HT lead from coil to distributor (twice) with no improvement. Plugs are new so not sure where to go next. Supply to coil is 12 volts when disconnected and all earthing straps have been cleaned. Engine turns over freely. Any suggestions please what else to check (and how) and/or replace?

It's on my list of "to dos" from an early comment Thanks Steve

Hi Andrew Great tip. many thanks Steve

Hi Andrew Light grey smoke Steve

Probably 10-15 seconds at a time

Hi Roger You're right in that the engine revs freely up to 6000rpm with no load. When they fitted the vacuum system, they said it would help with economy but, more importantly, cure a significant hesitation on pick up at 2000 rpm. I will try the idea re blocking off the vacuum pipes and let you know what happens. It would just be great to find a solution which is incredibly frustrating. The car is great up to 3500rpm but, bad news if you are in the middle of overtaking! Steve

Hi David Good idea and one that I wouldn't have thought of. I will try it and let you know. Thanks Steve

Hi Roger I bought the kit car Q plate in 2009 from the second owner. It was built in 1997 and the paperwork looks like the engine was supplied by the first owner, not Caterham. The recent fault has always been on acceleration up to 4000 rpm so large throttle, I guess. It will not accelerate beyond 4000rpm and just goes more and more slowly due to the misfiring. The carbs were fitted before the rolling road and there didn't seem to be a problem. They were set up properly on the rolling road the first time but the original distributor was a non-vacuum advance version. The guys at the rolling road suggested that it would be better if I fitted an vacuum advance distributor, which they fitted and drilled the inlet manifold for a vacuum pipe from each inlet (4 in total) which were combined and fed back to the new distributor. Choke and jet settings were as before. They reran the car on the rolling road and it all seemed okay. No details of the advance curve given to me. The only other comment is that sometimes, the tone of the engine changes just before the fault starts i.e. the engine seems to "hammer". I also fitted a new fuel pump as part of the problem solving exercise. I can bypass the filter and check the aux vents but I'm not sure how to check float levels? Steve

Hi Richard The engine won't go past 4000 revs and just gets slower as you go along at the same throttle opening Steve

I have a Super 7 1700 Crossflow to which I have recently fitted replacement 40DCOEs, a new distributor and coil and leads. The fuel tank have been cleaned and an in-line filter fitted. It went on the rolling road at Lloyds in Warminster and it was all set up properly to 6000 rpm and 135bhp. On the way home, I found a good bit of road and pushed the car up to 4000 rpm, at which point it started to misfire, splutter, smoke and there was a significant loss of power from the engine. I pulled over and the fault disappeared and I drove home but the revs were below 3500 rpm. Since then, every time I go out, the same problem happens at 4000 rpm. If I sit in a lay-by afterwards, the engine revs to 6000 rpm without a murmur. I have replaced plugs, coil and leads and bypassed the fuel pressure regulator that was on the car but there is still the same problem. I don't know what to try next to stop it happening. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I go mad!

When I recently rebuilt my1997 S3 Lotus 7 Caterham, I fitted a 5 speed gearbox and decided to go digital for the speedo, blanking off the speedo drive on the side of the box. I bought a speedo and sensor from Smiths and it has been a total failure to date. The sensor had to be so close to the prop shaft/diff bolts that it has been wiped off twice. The other fault, (when working in short periods), is that it seemed to develop an offset so above 60 mph, it would suddenly show 80 mph, and this offset would remain until the ignition was turned off and on again, not something I could do unless stopped. I am almost considering taking the engine & gearbox out to refit a speedo drive. Does anyone have any advice on the kit to use and where to safely mount the sensor? Many thanks Steve

I have just rebuilt my 1700 Xflow engine but there is a leak where the exhausts bolt onto the head. I am using standard thin gaskets (dry). I had this problem several years ago and fixed it by fitting some thick gaskets (5-8mm) but I can't find any on the web. Any suggestions please?

I went to see Steve at SP Components yesterday and he is bringing out a new gear kit that he says would suit a Caterham for speed of gear change, reliability and it weighs less than current boxes. Only problem is that it is not due out until late March/ early April which is too late for me. Certainly knows his stuff though!

Hi Everyone Thank you for all the great info which I have read through and decided on the following; I contacted Brian Robinson at Arch Engineering and he is going to make me a new bracket for the Type 9 gearbox and send me instructions on how to remove the old and fit the new. I will buy a E2 heavy duty box from BGH with a longer 1st gear and a 0.87 fifth gear which I think will give me a decent road car primarily. BGH will also extend the gear change back to its current position. The box will have a short input shaft and no spacer. I looked at the Tiger bellhousing and it was great but another £170 which I decided to spend elsewhere. I have bought a sandwich plate from Retro ford which is also one piece. The starter motor will be the original and I will buy a Sierra clutch kit from Northern Components. The propshaft will be cut and shortened with a Sierra larger diameter UJ to suit. I've been recommended to JW Eng at Bexleyheath to do this for me once I have the new length measured. It will have a digital speedo which I had already ordered from Caerbont together with a sensor that they can supply. BGH will blank off the speedo hole and I just need to re-connect the reversing light switch. If anyone sees a glaring mistake on the above decisions, then please let me know. Now I just need to make it happen once the body, etc., is back from the paint shop, during which time I am also moving house to Weymouth in Dorset. Nothing like a challenge. Again, thank you all very much. Weavie

Hi Rob Sorry for the slow reply but I was out of contact all day yesterday. My sincere thanks for all the fantastic comments form everyone. It has really helped to clarify what I need to do. I would like to take you up on the offer of the dimensioned drawing. I am working with a guy who is a fabricator so we should be able to replicate the item. I was planning to buy the Type 9 with the same gearing as my current box from BGH. My current box is great to drive up to 4th but I just want to be able to drop the revs in top gear on long journeys otherwise it becomes quite wearing on the ears and nerves!. I will only do the occasional track day so my aim is to achieve a good fun road car. I was going to use the short input shaft version without a spacer and these guys can modify the gear lever mechanism so that I end up with the gear stick in the same position as now. The car already has a 3.9 Quaife LSD mounted onto an Ital live axle. They have now leant me an empty box to use as a template which will be ideal with the drawing you kindly offered. From what I've seen so far, the existing mounting will need to be removed as already indicated by everyone, but I still have the following questions? 1. The output spline from the Type 9 seems to be a larger diameter than the Type 2, so I will need to get a new end welding on my existing but shortened propshaft? 2. When putting the Xflow block together with the Type 9 box, the original blanking plate is the wrong shape especially around the starter motor area. Is there an alternative plate that I can buy? Alternatively, will the Tiger bellhousing overcome this problem and allow me to use the existing blanking plate? 3. Does this also mean that I need to buy a different starter motor to suit - in which case, which one? 4. BGH said that I would need to use a Sierra clutch plate assembly and I can buy a kit from Northern Components? I agree with the comment about the speedo but I unfortunately damaged the original speedo during removal and Caerbont said it was irreparable. I have opted for an electronic version so the speedo issues should be painless. In fairness the original speedo set-up that came with the car never worked properly and spent most of it's time swinging wildly from one speed to another so i was never quite sure where I was - nothing to do with my driving, honestly! Any help on the above questions would be greatly appreciated. Steve

Hi Tazio Do you have any contact details please? Thanks

I am rebuilding my 1997 1700 Crossflow Supersprint and I'd like to change from the Type 2 4-speed box to the Type 9 5-speed box to drop the revs on the road. Has anyone else made this change and, if so, what do I need to do in the tunnel? I know that I have to shorten the propshaft and change the splined end and change the gearstick arrangement but not sure about the metal bashing required elsewhere? Any help, with or without photos, would be greatly appreciated before I get myself in a mess!