bcrain

I got everything fixed. Indeed, the switchover to LED front signals caused the problems. I got a neon panel light with a clear lens that fit the hole and removed the guts. Then I put a red and a yellow LED inside and added the third required ground wire. Now the panel indicator flashes yellow for left, red for right and yellow/red for hazard. Word to the wise, I had to remove the speedo to get access and when I put it all back together the panel lights did not work - fuse blown. It seems that even though the panel lights inserted in the speedo are in a plastic sleeved socket if you get the black (ground) wire in the center conductor it shorts out and blows the fuse. After 2 fuses, I got it sorted. Something must happen inside the housing. Thanks to all for the advice.

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I have already checked flasher/relay seating and multi-actuated the hazard switch. Looking at my 1988 wiring diagram (thanks Jonathan from 2018), I thought there was something funny about the indicator on light. It doesn't surprise me that that that is the way it is. Auto electrical designers are notorious for taking short cuts. It may be that when I converted to LED front indicators that the indicator on light quit working and I did not notice right away (thanks Jonathan for the motorcycle LED conversion info, I'll implement that). One day, I want to convert the indicator on light to dual LEDs that pick up ground directly; that way I can see which is on like on most cars and dial in the brightness I need since the signal switch is manual. It appears that leakage is my only problem other than a typically balky hazard switch. Tool wise, I have everything, up to digital storage oscilloscopes. I can build most anything. What I don't have is a young pretzel body for removing and replacing instrument panel items without taking off the scuttle. I would like to have some advice on removing the indicator light for redesign without the aforementioned pretzelization. Thanks for the info, Bob PS. Any reason for buying a hazard switch from Redline vs. Caterham? And why does the spell checker in Techtalk highlight Caterham as a misspelled word?

My 88 Caterham has an odd indicator problem I have not seen before in tech talk. When switching on either left or right, the opposite side comes on at about 1/4 - 1/3 power also. I suspect the the hazard switch because the hazards were causing the flasher to buzz instead of switching until I actuated them several times. Now they work, but can't get the indicators to behave. Suggestions? I'm also confused about the single lamp used to show that the indicators are on. It is not working. The diagram show both the GR and GW wires going to it, but no path to ground. Is that done by the metal instrument panel? Is there some path through the "unused" GR or GW wire to ground? One more thing, there is a white block on the back of the hazard switch. I assume this is a multi-pin connector, but I can't get it off.

Dim Dip Control 1988.pdf Dim Dip Control 1988.pdf Dim Dip Control 1988.pdfDim Dip Control 1988_0.pdf

I have a 1988 with the same problem. I have been using the same odd angles and very slow fill myself. What I do is use a micro flashlight (torch for those of you across the pond) so I can see the fill and stop when the fuel rises up. SAFETY GLASSES RECOMMENDED

Based on the year I should have a Sierra and it tested as NOT LSD. One of the Caterham dealers in the US who also does a lot of racing returned my call and recommended Mobil 1 75w-140 for maximum gear protection or the same in 75w-90 for slightly more horsepower due to reduced parasitic drag. I'm going with 75w-140 for now. I'll plan or reporting back after my excursion to the northern NM mountains in a couple of weeks.

I looked up the original invoice for the car. It says: "Rear Axle Assembly (CXD)" and charges 1050.00 pounds in October, 1988. Anyone know what kind of diff it has?

I have looked through the many posts on the proper gear oil to use and whine problems. I have not seen comments on the best oil for cars that are in the US. Different products are available here. My 1988 Di Dion seven says Spirax 95/140 on the chassis plate. That is a Shell product unavailable to my knowledge in the US. Hey all you yanks out there, what do you use? Would Valvo line 85W140 be OK?

I hear you Colin, but too big of an option for my present obligations in life. Thanks to all for the perspectives.

Madmalc, that seems very reasonable. But, the last time I did that kind of thing, a leaky toilet turned into new toilet, refurbished shower, redone walls, ceiling, new sink & cabinet, new leveled tile floor, replacing door along with lintel/frame and fully remodeling the basement kitchen ... There was more too that all added up to 8 months. These days I'm very sensitive to mission creep. I just hope I don't end up creating a new mission like that yellow 7 did. PS. The interior is really clean now except really deep in the corners.

I just bought this 88 Caterham last year and it is particularly leaky (engine, gearbox, diff etc.) bits of oil seem to be splattered on the underside, then seep through the seams of the sheet metal to the interior. THE QUESTION - is it common or accepted practice to run a bead of silicone rubber around the floor boards and tunnel seams to prevent this. I don't want to make it too hard to remove and replace a panel if it needs it. Is there a better product than the typical silicone RTV (normal US designation)? The faying surfaces have plenty of oil/dirt between them so a bead at the corner should be pretty easy to pull up when the time comes. Note, the mechanical refitment is scheduled for next year, but I want to do the interior now, so protection is in order.

I just went through removing and replacing the wings on my 1988. From another thread and from an airline mechanic friend I learned to do the following: 1- Put a drop of heavy duty loctite on it when you insert the rivnut so it becomes glued in as well as cold welded. Cleanliness is king for a process like this. 2- I chose a wrench operated tool that has a left hand thread nut so with a wrench and a ratchet (choke up on it so as not to over torque it -American baseball term). I like this tool because I have a good feel for it as the rivnut compresses. You have to choose when to stop so you can ruin it if you are ham handed. The tool is less expensive and won't break or fail, but you need one for each size. 3- I then run a tap through it in case any threads got distorted a little and lube it with anti-sieze. They work great after this process. I also was able to put on a drop of loctite on loose rivnuts that had spun and retighten them. Seem great so far, but time will tell. FINALLY, MY OWN QUESTION - I need a package of 50 or 100 4mm flush mount rivnuts. I need them to make my scuttle removable for when I redo the wiring harness. The problem is these are called "Eurostyle" in the US and I can't find a source for less that 2 or 3 thousand as a minimum order. The UK sources I have found won't sell to the US. Can anyone help me on this?

Thanks for all the comments. I'm taking it as no problem full speed ahead. I already had pictures of the alternator so it is a type 1. One more question. If I hook up ignition switched 12V to the IG terminal, what does that do? Just trying to get educated.

3- That picture is the alternator installed, but I can't find any markings on it for the IG or L. I'll try again with pictures. In my searches last night, I could find how to buy one, but not an installation drawing. 1- In the mean time, I'm hooking it back up one wire only just as it was. After all, I've been living with 3ma for a year already, just did not know it. By the way, what are the low flying library and the external search links. The internal search is certainly very limited.

My 1988 Caterham came to me with a Toyota style one terminal alternator (Denso or equivalent 12180-SECN). This means that the two large brown wires from the battery were tied together and thence to the single terminal. The brown-black (from the battery, is this the exciter?) was taped off and the brown-yellow wire (to the instrument panel charge light) was also taped off. Everything has worked fine for the year of my ownership (except the charge light) except, I just discovered that the alternator is draining 3 milliamperes with everything off. My estimate is that if I don't drive the car for 6 months or so, it won't start. I only discovered it just as I was about to hook up my new glass mat battery in a more accessible location (old battery is fine). THE QUESTIONS: 1- Is 0.003 amps typical for these kinds of systems and is this even a problem? 2- Does anyone have experience with this to share? 3- is there any way to make the charge indicator light work again? I was never a charging system expert, though I am a EE so be as technical as you want. All my previous experience is with cars with separate regulators.

Thanks to all who responded, I'm all set and moving forward.

This car was built in the US, but the harness should be the same or close to anything built in that or nearby years. Does anyone have a PDF to share?

In the end I had a body shop do all four wings (patched, painted and undercoated with a US brand pick up bed liner product). The bedliner came out way thinner than I planned so I hope it works out. I also had the exhaust treated with that silver ceramic high temp coating. It is awesome with the polished aluminum sides. Finally, I ditched the "sand blasted" SS rear wing protectors in favor of clear polyurethane protection film. The car looks way better.

Has anyone suffered through this? When I first bought my 88 Caterham long chassis last year, they would rub at bumps in tight turns. In the end I just bent the front wing supports up to gain a few extra cm of clearance. They will sag again and damage the fronts again. This car does not have mid-length supports Does anyone have experience with strengthening the headlamp bracket/wing support?

1. I damaged an old style rear wing. I can find one, but it has to be painted to match. Can paint look close enough to the others that are just the coloured fibreglass to be ok? 2. The front wings have some star cracks from rock hits on the underside. There are many rubber type coatings that could be used to prevent this. Any recommendations for specific products to use?

Make that "advice needed," Jeez

I recently purchased a 1988 Caterham long chassis with mechanical fuel pump, 8mm OD hard plastic fuel line, heater and windshield washers. I recently had a big problem with plugged up jets and discovered to my horror that the car does not have a fuel filter. I would love to get recommendations for brands of electric fuel pumps and filters people like along with perhaps some pictures of installations. My old 1962 S2 had a heater and an SU pump on the firewall, but there is not a lot of room on this car.

Thanks for the info. I assume 1-2 pm is on the clock. They were terrible when I got it. But are in good rough tune now. I'm working with an expert.

After a 34 year absence, I picked up a 1988 Caterham to replace the long gone 1962 series II. We are going to fine tune and re-jet the DCOE 40 Webers for operation a mile high (Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA). Before we do that, I have to reset the valve clearances and find the timing marks. I have some original information, but it is not comprehensive. Can anyone tell me: 1 - if I am to set the valves hot or cold 2 - if I should make any clearance modifications for roller rockers (original sales sheet says in-.010" or .25 mm and ex-.022" or .56 mm - previous owner says in-.010-.012" and ex-.018-.022") 3 - Any information on the locations and specifications for the timing marks would be greatly appreciated as well. This car has the South African block - 831C6015R34. I believe it still has the original head, but it was ported and the roller rockers added, some time in the past. That may have been when the Webers were added. Right now, it is slow and overly rich, but if I open it up on a longer road, the spark plugs look pretty good.

I originally owned a 1962 series II, but sold it years ago. I'm currently looking at replacing it with a used Caterham, but I'm worried about the more comfortable seats that are installed on later models. I'm 6' 2" (188 cm) tall and I barely fit in my old worn out Lotus. Current and recent Caterhams may push me up too high and/or too far forward. Tall drivers, please comment so I know what I'm heading into and common solutions. Just so you know, I am in the SW USA so I'm typically 800-2400 km from any car that I consider. It's not easy to pop over and do a fit check.