mike150

I've to see a stainless fabricator next week but my thought would just be to cut the S bend right off and weld on a 90deg elbow and then weld a support bar onto that. I'll be replacing the exhaust clamp and sealing the joints.

I managed to get the link pipe off the end of the silencer, it involved a big hammer and a punch set!!!!

I tried the car with just the can on it and its not too much louder, actually a lot of the noise is being caused by the leaks at both ends of the collector so what ever I do I'll be using exhaust sealer when I reassemble it all.

I think I'm going to modify it into side pipe and try it as I may as well, I can always refit it to the link pipe with some fabrication. At least if I retain the standard silencer I keep the catalyst.

For those that are interested the rear silencer and link pipe weigh 6kgs.

I know of him, he sells through simon at Meteor Motorsport as Cic. My problem is I'm going to have to cut the existing set up off so I may as well modify it then! The Caterham design would be fine if they had used a flat profile pipe between the primary silencer and the back, it would have gained 30mm of ground clearance. My collector pipe and joint into the primary silencer is leaking badly too so that's a major contributor to noise. Caterham quality parts!!!!

Before I start pulling the seats out and the tunnel top off.......

 

Does anyone know what the wiring is for the standard heated seats? My drivers seat heats on stage 2 but light on the switch comes on for 1 and 2. My passenger seat doesn't heat on 1 or 2 but the switch light comes on for 1. I can't get at the plugs or switches without dismantling stuff! I don't know what they are wired through as they aren't mentioned in the handbook.

Well I had a go at removing my rear exit to see what it sounded like and I can't!!!!

Because the link pipe and end of the silencer has had a good hit its dented in at the joint so will have to be cut off if its ever to be removed for any reason. Either that or it will have to be butchered to separate it from the silencer.

I gave up and pushed it back together.

I'd be going for a 630mm raceco as I don't want to chop my collector to fit the longer 750mm that raceco normally sell. I'm tempted just to modify my standard exhaust.............

I'm a returning member and have just bought a 620s off a fellow member.

 

I've quickly realised I don't like the rear exit exhaust, it's ugly but the big issue is I've grounded it out on bumps badly.

 

I have options of a second hand side exit, a new raceco at £700 or a new R500 silencer at £480 or do I just modify mine to make it side exit? This last option isn't really reversible though and while noise isn't really a problem I don't want it much louder.

 

What's the consensus from owners?

Revised.

Good for you.

 

I recently paid £79 + P&P from Soft bits for Sevens

As new and ready to bolt on which will save you an hour or 2.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/112482465631?

Bought a few months ago and never used as the car was never wet!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/112482446999?

Listed on Ebay

As new..................

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/112482440475?

As made by Carston Filmer, £35 + 4.99 P&P to UK

Listed on ebay.................

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caterham-7-Carbon-fibre-handbrake-sleeve-/112479850809?

Get a generator too!

My bad. Excuse me, I'm on the drink in Spain right now.

I'd avoid a solar charger as you will not know if it's over or under charging the battery.

 

Get a Ctek MX5.0 and charge any car or motorcycle with it with no fear of damaging a battery. You can buy a 12v lighter socket lead for one and it saves you opening the bonnet.

1Halfords sell low profile trolley jacks, I bought one 2 years ago for £25 if I remember right. I see they are £35 now.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchRouter?srch=trolley+jack&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-

Time consuming marking and drilling the holes to fit it right but with lowered floors and someone of average height it's the best option, you won't regret it.

The car is 2017 with 400 miles and they are sending my ECU back right now with some updates but they say it's not the final fix. Apparently they are still working on that.

I will find out if it's any good very soon then!

No, my fan only runs when the temperature gauge is over 100deg.

Surely the car needs fuel enrichment when cold?

Interesting however the hot idle on my car seems fine, in my uneducated opinion my car has no cold map in the ECU or its not being called on by the lamda sensor.

I've waited a while to respond again but firstly may I say thanks for the PM's and the information on the thread.

After this thread that was picked up by nice chap that helped me out with Caterham, they asked that my ECU be returned for analysis, that was nearly 3 weeks ago and I am still waiting on an answer as to what the issue is never mind getting it back.

Currently............... an unhappy Caterham owner..................but hopefully that will change this week.

An aeroscreen makes a big difference but after that I'd say it gets very expensive very quickly to get any more power or make the car significantly lighter. Lithium battery, carbon panels, titanium exhaust and fasteners but you're into a few thousand pounds to loose 20-30kgs.

Not helpful when the Op stated he wants is to go faster in a straight line.

 

A 620 is the logical step imo.

Ditch the air box and fit a cone filter?