chelrob

Thanks for your comments. I did search for this extensively and saw the posts that you mention, but these really just refer to DIY. I was looking for information on getting it done professionally.... will try the ARs though as you suggest.

Anyone got a ballpark figure for wrapping a Caterham (excluding wings)? Any recommendations in Manchester / North West? I'm thinking specifically of expertise with those bonnet louvres...

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. The car is a 2008 Sigma and I wanted the supply for a video camera, so not a high current. Anyway following the various inputs, I have had a more thorough look underneath and there is indeed a spare terminal hidden away up behind the rear suspension.. However, it is permanently live rather than ignition switched which is what I need. So looks like i need to run a new cable, but was worth checking... Thanks

I want to put a 12v supply in the boot. Was thinking of taking from one of the dash switches, but any views on what is the best way to route it through to the boot compartment?

I want to put a 12v supply in the boot. Was thinking of taking from one of the dash switches, but any views on what is the best way to route it through to the boot compartment?

I want to put a 12v supply in the boot. Was thinking of taking from one of the dash switches, but any views on what is the best way to route it through to the boot compartment?

I want to put a 12v supply in the boot. Was thinking of taking from one of the dash switches, but any views on what is the best way to route it through to the boot compartment?

Thanks for all the comments - will have another look at the weekend....

Ah, so you are suggesting that the cable has been fitted backwards, so that the non-adjustable end is next to the diff and the adjuster is hidden away somewhere in the transmission tunnel? Might explain things.....

The problem is that the nut/yellow bit seems to be just about at the end of the outer sleeve, so can't screw them off any more....

I’m trying to adjust the handbrake on my 2008 Sigma car, but my arrangement seems different to those that I have seen in various versions of the build manual – There is no sign of any knurled nut adjuster, just a single nut which is right at the end of the cable sheath, as shown in the photo – any ideas? Am I missing something?

Not had chance to spend any more time yet, but they just seem to connect together within the Tacho. Would be tempted just to short across and bypass the Tacho, but I seem to have a similar problem with the oil pressure. I haven't worked out the wiring for that yet as the diagram that I have just seems to show a pressure switch and not a transducer.... more head scratching..

Connections to the Tacho match the wiring diagram exactly. Yellow is 3rd from the end and green/black 6th. Just tried bypassing the Tacho and connecting the black/green feed from the sender, to the yellow from the guage and now get a reading (albeit higher than I was expecting, tho maybe there is more fuel than I thought) Seems strange that this connection is open circuit within the Tacho...Not something that I would have thought an obvious failure or am I missing something here? Anyway the question is do I fork out £175 for a new tacho or stick with my bit of wire?? Then we also have the same issue re. the pressure gauge to resolve...

Jonathan - Yes ordinary instruments. Have checked power and earth for the fuel gauge and definitely ok. Not got as far as the oil pressure yet. Earth to the tacho must be ok as it is working ok as a tacho...

I have a 2011 Sigma and both Fuel Gauge and Oil Pressure gauge are reading zero. I started out by checking the actual fuel gauge by shorting the sense terminal to earth - the gauge reads full so that seems ok… I was then about to set to work checking things at the sender end – but thought I would search on here first. Seems on older cars the sender signal is a black & green wire that goes straight through to the gauge. However, in my case it is a yellow at the gauge end (although there is a green/black at the tank). Looking at the wiring diagram, the yellow at the gauge comes from the tacho! Anyone know what is happening here – does the sender signal just get wired into tacho and then straight out again, or is the tacho actually doing anything? Anyway using a multimeter to check the various lines, gives the following: Yellow from gauge to Tacho - Good Green/black from Sender to Tacho – Good Sender: green and black terminal to earth terminal is reading ~28Ω (tank ~quarter full) Tacho: green and back terminal to yellow terminal open circuit If the signal is supposed to go straight into the tacho then straight out, the above would suggest a tacho fault? But what could possibly go wrong with a direct internal connection?? Same question goes for the oil pressure gauge – I see that this is also fed from the tacho…. Seems a coincidence that both gauges fed from the tacho have failed? Could this be a similar tacho fault (though it’s working fine as a tacho)? Any thoughts /experience would be welcome… Thanks