genneton4

Could swap for ageless plate ? Keith

Probably but not yet. This was my 5th Caterham. I seem sell a Caterham then buy something else and then end up buying another Caterham. Lessons not learnt ! Or just itchy feet !

Car is sold. Car is in fantastic condition. Pictures on CarandClassic. 14600 miles 1.7 Xflow 135bhp 5 speed SDKRDPR10185D5299 Registered 22/11/1990 5 new tyres New battery New radiator New 'prisoner' matching half hood New reconditioned cylinder head New clutch cable Front suspension overhaul, new springs, new dampers New gearbox oil New service Full weather gear, luggage rack. £16500 for the car and £5000 for the plate or £20000 for the car and plate package. 07951219666

SEV1N plate for sale - My car is now sold so I can sell for £4000. Keith - 07951219666 - 0115 9521622

Car sold.

Car is now on KE05 NWN. 63200 miles. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1172316 .... plus ebay. Keith

Third 'normal' car secured, ugh !! So I have two toys to sell and the Caterham won't be going anywhere !. It's a 2005, 997.1, 3.8S. Rare spec. of Arctic Silver with full extended terracotta leather and sunroof. Purchased from RSJ Sportscars December 2018. FSH, plus extra annual oil change last April. New front tyres, rears half worn, new discs and pads all round, new plugs and coil packs, new control arms, new water pump, coolant and belts, new rear springs, no bore scoring. Pictures on Ebay. 6 speed manual gearbox, climate control, Porsche Stability Management (PSM), Active suspension (PASM), satellite Navigation (PCM 2), telephone module, Bose sound upgrade, 6cd autochanger, multi function steering wheel, sports chrono, sports seats, Porsche Sports Exhaust (PSE), rear parking sensors, Litronic headlights, 19 inch lobster claw wheels, built in trickle connection. Car is completely stock, no mods. Cheaper tax bracket, no stone chips to paint, wheels refurbished. Terrible time to sell such a car ..... Anything above £20K takes it. Keith

I will take on board the change of oil to w20/50 suggestion but I doubt it will be the answer to my problem. I think w20/50 was in the car before this last oil change because I can't remember seeing exhaust oil seepage - it was still smoking but very, very slightly (admittedly a lot less than it is now). I did research the site for the correct oil to use for a crossflow Supersprint and it was nearly all w15/40. Is this advice now wrong ? I don't want this link/conversation to get bogged down and staIled with the 'wrong' grade of oil advice. I will use w20/50 next, I just can't see how this alone can solve my problem. The real question I need help with is, with my compression figures of 192, 187, 195, 197, could that mean the the pistons and rings are in ok'ish nick and I should channel my attentions on getting the head converted to unleaded and to fit new valve guides and stem seals ?? Is my logic reasonable. ? ie if this course of action doesn't fix my problem and it is the block/rings then I have only wasted a cylinder head gasket set ? Thanks very much Keith

The thinner oil (Comma 15/40 semi) is still in there. Can oil really make that much difference ?

Hello again 'club'. I am resurrecting this thread (or hope I have). I have cogitated for almost year now about what to do about my whiff of smoke from my 1700 Supersprint. Car has excellent oil pressure. And is working brilliant - went to Portmeirion and back, no problems. Have now noticed the car is seeping a little oil from number 4 cylinder exhaust flange (toward starter motor). I realise that there could be a deeper engine problem as mentioned before (by RK) but I am trying to sort this out as economical as possible - I just want to fix the whiff of smoke. I don't want a racer, I just want fast countryside (smile) car for my latter years. As I said before, oil pressure seems quite impressive in my eyes. Did a compression test (with a 1970's 'push on meter') and got 192, 187, 195, 197. (197 was No 4 cylinder). Would I be right in thinking that my piston rings could be ok and that the real problem is with the head ?????????? Valve guides or seals or both ??? I can get the head sorted here in Nottingham by an old school engine reconditioner. Maybe unleaded at the same time. Seeking help and reassurance ...... Keith - Notts.

Lotus wooden gear knob. Bought late eighties from the lotus show at Donny for my then +2 but never used. Has a universal self tap - 7-9mm (nylon not tapped). Here for the club for £15 before it goes on Fleabay. genneton4@aol.com or PM

Caterham 7 Jacket. Circa late eighties. BRG with yellow. Perfect exterior, has had a small repair to inner armhole lining, properly overlocked. Bought be last year by me but I am too tall. Tag says large but the chest is XL. Would suit a 'shorter bodied' Caterhammer ! Here for the club for £40 before it goes on Fleabay. genneton4@aol.com or PM Nottingham

Had the same worries as you along with a slightly noisy layshaft in neutral so decided to try and replace gearbox oil in my 1990 Supersprint with type 9 gearbox. Couldn't get the plug out because there was no way to wind it out before it hit the tunnel let alone getting a syphon tube in. Luckily, I could see the top of the box in the engine bay and after removing the washer bottle and pump I could just get to all the bolts on the top plate. Sucked all oil out - I was absolute sludge - evil stuff, quite suprised how it looked. Car has only done 10K. Replaced with 1.2L of GL4. Not sure if you have the same access.

Spot on lads - thank you. Just trying to work out how to delete this post before anybody else starts giggling !! Seriously - It is a tight fit with the plate that I have but all sorted this morning - I can go on my hols. now. !! Slight senior moment but in my defence the car was trailered here and it arrived with the rack hooked on to the number plate. It all makes sense now. Thanks again. Keith

Hopefully picture added. Is this just how it is ?? Keith

Hi, I have 1990 Supersprint car that came with a luggage rack but it appears to want to rest on the plastic number plate and not the metal number plate mount. (plastic plate is bigger than the metal mount). Have tried to 'twist and ply' the bottom pegs to try and pick up on the metal but won't work unless it will look too weird/distorted. (won't twist far enough). I know these things are 'strap on' but don't want to stress the plate. Have 'melded' a little extra plastic to the ends of the overlap of the number plate so the plate is a little stronger. Should it/might it be ok ? Short of having to replace the short metal plate mount with a longer normal size plate one - any experiences/wisdoms ?? Thanks Keith

All sorted now I think. Couldn't get an exact copy done in ally from anybody including radtech. Some needed fan resiting etc! So. I have decided to go with a recore from a local company (Cooltex (£160)). I really wanted to upgrade to a lighter ally tank but when they are both full of water I guess there isn't that much difference for road use. Keith

Winter jobs !! Calling on crossflow club people again for a bit of guidance. Had a very very slight weep on my original copper rad. Bought an ally one off ebay - fitted good - looked great ... until I tried to put the nose cone on .. it wouldn't fit. Money refunded hopefully. But ..... Should I get the old one fixed ? A couple of firms here in Notts have said they don't recore anymore - just new stuff because they can't get the cores ?!?. Were these rads built for Caterham (1990) ?? or are they off something else (Reliant Robin, old school stuff !!) ?? Help. I can't really afford £250 plus for a rad. Keith

Oo'er - I need to cogitate over winter.

I'm using Comma 15/40 semi synthetic. Which oil should I be using for a crossflow ? Keith

Just like to add that I have only just started using additive. I was under the impression that the car could run on unleaded but have since seen lots of blogs saying all crossflow can't run on unleaded. ??? Hence the additive. Have seen another blog this morning that says that if the crossflow engine number has a 'UL' prefix it is ok for unleaded. My engine No. has a 'UL' prefix (well suffix actually). So, if it is ok for unleaded ?? Do the valve guides seem to wear out at 10k miles ?? Keith

I use Carlube lead substitute. Nothing special. Looks like I have a valve guide problem. Big shame with only 10k on the clock. What would be a ballpark figure for head rebuild with unleaded seats and new valve guides. ? Keith

Hello, I have recently, finally got a 1990 1700 crossflow Prisoner car. Is seems to be using a little oil. Is this normal'ish ??? I have owned 2 crossflow's before this one and haven't noticed any blue smoke before. The blue smoke (tad, (whiff)) seems to occur when it's been sitting for a few minutes (at railway crossings etc) and then setting off. Not bad at all ... but it's there, in the mirrors (ugh !). Plugs are not oily. Oil pressure is the best I've ever had - 50psi and 25-30psi on tickover. I have just serviced the car and it seems a little more noticeable. It doesn't have an unleaded head - I run with additive. I do top up with a bit of oil but only every couple of months, maybe 1/4 pint. There is no catch tank. Keith

What splutter !! New 50f9 jets arrived this lunch, fitted, car runs perfectly. Don't know how the 45f8's got in there. Thanks to all who contributed especially Roger and Neil. Well faffed I think. Keith