Markymark

Jonathan 

Those shown in the link on post #12

Hi

Climbed into my 2010 150 SV and the immobiliser would not disengage with either of my fobs. Disconnected the battery a couple of times to try and see if it would reset. It did not. I words of wisdom from members to resolve! Can't go anywhere at the moment!

cheers all Mark

Can you PM me with a photo? I am in Epsom Surrey not sure where you are located to collect/see/try on?

cheers

Mark

Hi I would be interested in this if not sold?

Cheers

Mark

Either As I am closing my business in May!

I live in Epsom and often go out for a blat and would be happy for going in tandem. PM me if you want to make contact

Cheers

Mark

As Iain stated I did not and do not have a multimeter. Instead of going down the route of buying a meter, a box spanner and maybe some loctite  thread locker (not sure on this last thought) I took the approach of replacing the easiest part first- the pluggable sub-loom. Luckily for me this appears to have fixed the problem. 10 minute job which included removing the old one and securing the new one with cable ties.

According to Iain and on inspection ( I can see where he is coming from) I also saved some skin on my knuckles as it is a right bugger to get to. Also I am apprehensive of screwing anything into the engine block in case I cross thread it! Location on the Sigma would suggest this is not an unlikely scenario for amateur like me!

Mark

Thanks Iain for your help by PM the actual Fault was the sub loom. I changed this and the gauge now reads between 2 and 4 bar. Not replacing the sensor it’s self as “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!”

Hi Ian 

I have located the above sensor and lead on the car. See pictures below.

The one above is where the sensor is in the engine. I am assuming you cleaned the electrical contacts here rather han the connection to loom in picture two - I am guessing you are going to say both!

Cheers

Mark

Thanks Iain

That looks like my first port of call! I will try this this evening. Will also check if other gauges are reading funnily as well.

Cheers

Mark

All of a sudden I have a reading odf 8 on my oil pressure gauge rather than 5. I suspect it might be the sensor. Any pointers as to where i can find the sensor and any advice to solve? Clean/replace etc

Thanks

Mark

J

On the Tacho there are three "warning lights. The centre blue for the main beam and left and right for the indicators. These are not as far as I can see accessible from the rear of the gauge - ak removing the rubber bung shown on earlier pictures. The good news is that with this new set up these indicators are  perhaps up to  30%  brighter (my perception only) - perhaps as the LEDs draw less current there is more for these indicator lights.

Jonathan

I have just managed to put together a solution. Caerbont very kindly send me three black carriers  that I guess they use now. To which I added the LEDs from Classic Car LEDs ref 286 T5 Dashboard LED Upgrade Bullbs. See pics below and also the end result !

Duncan was very helpful anat Classic car LEDs and my orders arrived the next day/ ( I ordered some rear light LEDs as well and a rear reversing light in brighter LED form) great improvement in visibility. Cant comment on the reversing light as during the swap over I noticed it was not working. Traditional and LED bulb were working. Will check the fuse first then maybe back up here to see where to check the earth and then maybe the switch itself.

looks like it could be these

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/r509tm-led-b8.3d-12v-2w-panel-and-dashboard-bulbs.html

Thanks Jonathan missed the link as I did not first look at the post on the web but the message on my phone!

Thanks for the other advice. I dont have an ignition indicator just indicator and main beam. looks like these are a return to factory if they go. Heard about the misting- get some on my car now but I am not to bothered by this.

Hi Jonathan Yup this looks right! Caerbont told me this.

"The Caterham speedo and tacho (and others) are fitted with a 2 Watt bulb and we don’t have any higher output alternatives.  However, I am informed that an LED alternative is available on Ebay and others. You need to search for a wedge base T1.1/2, 5mm,the lamp and holder are two separate parts. "

Is the above from your car or have you sourced it?

Cheers

Mark

Hi

I,ve given it a gentle tug but it does not come out. Reluctant to use force as I could break it and don't have a replacement. Emailed Caebont to ask them about replacements. Will post on here to share any words of wisdom.

BR

M

Johnathan

I looked at the bulb in the tacho and the pictures below are the bulbulbs.Caerbont said they were wedge T15 but they dont look like it to me!

Jonathan,

The instruments seem to be the ones fitted after 2005 - the speedo matches the picture you put on an earlier post,see below.

Tacho I guess is similar see picture below.

Do you have an idea of what bulbs these use (286 ?) as I would like to get some brighter ones.

thanks for any input

Mark

Yup good thought - Tried to get phots but retaining bars cover the serial numbers so going to have to take off the wheel ( as I have a motolita type) the 7 is a 2010 150 SV.

Thanks Jonathan! Will limber up and stretch to get my torso under the dashboard!

Pushed the boat out and bought a CSR clock for my SV. Has LED backlights I think making the rest of the dials look very dim. Bought some new brighter lights for the small gauges. Easy to replace these. The Speedo and tacho look like the case needs to be removed. Has any body done this and any words of wisdom/advice as I dont want a disassemble them and b****r them up? anybody got a heasds upp on it?

James

I have done two drafts and not sent either! Her is my third.We are in a world that is more H&S conscious and and increasingly litigious. It would be mad to go against the evidence to change the ruling with regard to track day rollbars and I totally get the stance taken by the club. Equally we need to acknowledge that it is not a trivial matter to change a rollbar to sample a  Club track day ( although if going on to do more this is more justifiable). IMHO it is not a stance that the club should take to say "well it is trivial and you should do it", because a key issue ( not necessarily the only one but a major one) is that a "try out" is by definition a one time event. To many of us; to change the rollbar only becomes financially justifiable (and possibly desirable) with multiple track day participation.

 That said, I believe we should/could be a bit more creative with this issue to allow other members (I declare I am in this group) to be able to improve our driving skills off road and to be more competent, safer when we go back onto the public roads and not least maximize our enjoyment of our cars by understanding them better (The cars that we individually own).  This need is not necessarily covered by a "track day" or  perhaps needs to be covered by a track day as currently defined by the club.

We can go to another organisations track day but we loose the camaraderie advice, guidance and expertise of more knowledgeable and skillful Seven drivers as most say the driving experience is unique. Many also might find this intimidating for a first time as there is comfort starting with like minded fellow club members. A simple solution maybe to arrange with a provider a " Caterham/Lotus 7" only day aimed at the novice. It will need to be done in a way that the liability is with the organizer and not back to the club for all the reasons well documented before.

In my experience so far there are a great many club members willing to give up their time to assists others. To have these "guiding hands" in attendance (maybe we can pay their traveling expenses or some other ex gratia payment - to be covered by participants) would be very desirable.

An alternative suggestion is to start a new class of day - perhaps a "Handling Day" not a track day -  aimed again at novices with a similar recipe as above but within the Club bailiwick. (Does the Dunsfold day need an FIA rollbar?) I am willing to volunteer my time to develop ideas in a working party if anybody sees these suggestions as noteworthy/desirable/ do-able etc. 

An alternative type of day, this could be competitive but not based on out right speed alone but say on three timed runs on a course where the winner has the smallest delta between these timed runs. Drivers say in the morning are skilled in consistent driving techniques with not the sole aim to just to go faster.

Please note I would be an enthusiastic amateur with regards to my knowledge and experience of this type of activity - as you may have guessed it I have never been on, or observed a track day!

Of course I don't know what I don't' know and therefore all this could have been visited before and all I will have achieved with this post is to improve my typing skills.... if not - such a "half way house" handling day could get more members to graduate onto/join track days which i believe is a stated aim for  the club.

Cheers

Mark Hutton

My master plan for buying a 7 is for touring. Bought the SV ( secondhand) with chrome, leather seats heater 15" wheels pack etc - you get the picture. I was not looking for a 150 ( as for road use) but fell in love with the soundtrack. I have the five speed no other engine upgrades. I have too had some problems with getting/keeping the 150 in the sweet spot. Like others on  this forum found Chris C, he kindly invited me over and he showed me what to do. Wont repeat all here but balancing the throttle bodies, tick over at around 1000 rpm and the TPS registering 1.04v as Chris C states is the set up ( with the equipment which I now have even I can do it!). For the road driving, I run out of "runway" before I am anywhere near its limits and the sigma engine pulls smoothly and uniformly when set up as per Chris's advice. No problems with starting off "kangeroo-ing" or flat spots in this state of tune.

I am definitely a deciple/evangelist of the 150. I guess we all can on the 150 (but in on a different scale) relate to Lewis' problems with the W08. Get it right and its arguable one of the best Caterhams. No co-incidence that the 310 is considered by many as the best all round package. This is a sweeter sounding 310! (IMHO).

I too can't thanks Chris enough for the help - given willingly, knowledgeably and enthusiastically!

This post probably wont get the heart pumping but here goes......

Went to see Chris C with My Sigma 150 and he showed me how to set the tuning for myself. Will be doing this once the equipment arrives! A big thank you Chris.

We noticed when we took the air filter off the back plate was damaged so will be replacing. Chris guessed there maybe an O-ring joining the trumpets to the manifold. These look like they need to be unbolted to slide the back plate on and off.

QUESTION : anybody done this and are there any O-rings needed? Caterham and Titan thought there weren't any. Wanted to get all the bits before commencing the replacement. So if needed anybody recommend a source? Any advice on this task in addition most welcome.

Cheers

Mark