olly_h

Sounds like you're on it - if you follow the Nuvite recommended procedure to the letter you can't go wrong. I have have never used G6 but I think it's a similar grade to the F7. I have the unbranded cyclo from Frasers too and it's great! You'll need some 100% cotton fleece to go with it which Frasers sell as well. Personally I have found it best to compound with F7 and then straight to cyclo with Grade S. Skip grade C altogether it causes some micro swirling that the S doesn't seem to remove. See the guide here. Dave is right in terms of keeping on top of it. The S and cyclo will give you a mirror finish, after that even so much as a finger print will leave an immovable mark. Ultimately the car needs to be driven - let the mirror finish wear away and then just tough up with one pass of grade S every 6 months.

Oil or water should be fine - although oil possibly better. Make sure to cover everything over that isn't protected, exposed suspension parts, windscreen frame etc. The wet oil/Ali mix is a pig to remove once dried. 2000 will be plenty far enough, in fact you can skip sanding altogether depending on what you're compounding with. Don't worry about the swirl marks, they will be removed through compounding. What are you compounding with? And do you have a cyclo for finishing with grade S? Olly

Hi folks, my much loved caterham is for sale here. Specification: *1.6 Ford sigma 125hp *Mazda 5 speed manual box *1900 miles Polished aluminium body with black wings and nosecone, and painted 7 grille. *Heated windscreen *Heater *Carpets *Weather equipment including full doors and half hood *14" classic alloys with 185/60/14 Avon Zv3 front and rear De-dion rear Extras include: *Limited edition Monaco leather seats with red piping *Starter button *Sequential shift lights *Cold air intake *High level 3rd brake light *Upgraded aluminium race mirrors fitted to stanchion (original mirrors also included). £19,995 Inspections and test drives welcome - based in Ticknall DE73. Olly

Thanks for the advice guys. Handbrake switch is a good idea and makes good sense with the problem being under hard throttle. I'll check all of the above. Thanks

POBC, I'm trying to help a friend out whose issue is with the brake warning light flashing at him when he gives it the full beans. I have checked brake fluid isn't low, connectors to the cap look sound and clean and brake pedal feel is reportedly firm. What's the next logical step? Its a roadsport 2011. Thanks, Olly

Tom, have you tried these with the doors on? And the door does not obscure the view at all? Also do they allow the door to be opened to a resting point i.e. Beyond 90 degrees? Thanks, Olly

Green with yellow stripes heading south towards Markeaton roundabout. Caught a glimpse heading in the opposite direction.

Still available

Hi all, S3 Full hood for sale. Delivered from Caterham with a 2014 kit and never used. £140 I have pictures I can send by email. Collection from Ticknall (DE73) or postage at cost. Thanks, Olly

Do you have a heated windscreen? If so no need to drill the scuttle. Remove the rear stanchion bolts on either side and gently pivot the windscreen forwards. You can get the DRE wiring through the same grommet as the windscreen wiring (just!). The cable can then tuck away neatly under the windscreen frame. Means if you remove it in the future you won't be left with a hole in the scuttle. Olly

Hi AM, did you get the right email address? Olly

*hotmail ... Definitely not "hormail"

Looking for a cat bypass pipe to fit the 4-1 system on an s3 sigma thanks, Olly

Hi AM, yes it's olly_howard at hormail dot co dot uk