Eriedor

About to replace the rear main seal on my k series. Wanted to check, should I put oil on inner lip of the seal/crank and sealant on the outer edge? I've found mixed information when researching this. Any other advice for this job?

Great thanks for the info. I've ordered some SAE R9 hose and fuel line hose clamps and will follow Ian's advice

Looking at replacing fuel hoses with Ethanol resistant ones, but I have no idea what connector this is (connects to fuel filter inlet hose) which I'd need to fit to one of the new hoses.

My 2002 7 has DD ears with holes in so between the ear and the tube is a thin aluminum plate to prevent I assume water ingress. They're looking pretty ropey now (even after wire brushing) but I can't find replacements on Caterham parts website. Is my only option to buy new ears that don't have a hole in or would it be ok to get an Aluminium fabricator to make a copy?

Thanks Jonathan, that bolt list and fastener pack list is super helpful. I have an assembly guide already thanks. I guess I should study that some more!

I've just disassembled my 2002 K Series 7 for a respray and I'm soon to embark on reassembly. What nuts and bolts have to (or should ideally should be) replaced with new? I know there's nyloc nuts in much of the suspension that need to be replaced with new, including rear hubnuts, and I believe flywheel bolts have to be changed? Any others? Also is it a good idea to put a bit of copper grease on bolts in the rear arches to prevent them seizing in the rivnut in future? Any others? Cheers

@BrettJ - no, it's quite tricky to take the cable out at the throttle body end, so instead I disconnected it from the pedal box and just loosely wrapped the cable over the engine while I was lifting it out. However the end clearly caught on something during removal and popped off the metal bar.

It appears that the small metal bar on the end of my throttle cable which hooks onto the pedal has pulled off when I removed the engine. Any ideas on securely attaching a new one or am I looking at a new cable?

@Englishmaninwales - Are you able to dig out that bearing number? I'm about to go through this process and would like to replace it if I can.

JP - This is the grommet I believe, doesn't say dimensions unfortunately - https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fittings/5459-grommet-fuel-hose-through-boot-support-bar.html How much R14 hose did you need in the end? I'm thinking of replacing my hoses with ethanol resistant ones as I've currently got the whole car stripped and fuel tank out already. Also did redline provide E10 resistant bits for fuel filler neck etc?

Brilliant thanks Paul, that was the conclusion I came to but wanted to check before going ham with a hammer! It's already doused in penetrating oil so hopefully shouldn't put up too much of a fight!

Is the eye at the end of the cable squeezed on after threading the cable on the caliper? Meaning I have to cut it off to remove?

Just for clarity I'm trying together the cable out of this part of the caliper. There doesn't seem to be any mechanism and using force doesn't budge it

Probably a dumb question but how do I remove the handbrake cable from the caliper, there doesn't seem to be a mechanism on the plastic sleeve that goes through the caliper mount hole to release it

Just a final thought - is there anything different I need to be aware of from the standard instructions on engine removal when it comes to mine being dry sumped?

Thanks for heads up on CRB pre-load, going to create a separate thread on the clutch. Great idea on transmission tunnel insulation, is there a guide or thread I should look for advice on that one?

Great list, thanks Jonathan. I've got low level jack, and stands. RE: Hub socket, are both front and rear 41mm for a 2002? RE: Fluid aperture plugs - what's good to use for this?

I'm about to embark on removing the engine, gearbox and diff from my 2002 kseries superlight 7 (R300 spec, RBTB, dry sumped). I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to the mechanical side of owning a Caterham, and I'll be time constrained so I want to be fully prepared ahead of starting. Looking for advice on the following: I have a halfords 200pc toolkit and will rent an engine crane. Any other tools I should acquire ahead of the procedure that will help? The car will soon be exported to Canada where for the next ~2 years access to a workspace to do big maintenance jobs will be tricky. What proactive maintenance should I do whilst everything's out so the next couple years of running is smooth sailing? Currently planned - DVA Power upgrade (inc new belts and gaskets etc), R&R rebuild of gearbox and diff, new clutch, new waterpump, dry sump scavenge pump rebuilt.

- Lots of small increases may do it, I like the idea of packing up the engine mounts a bit. - The car does have to be driveable but only at low speed, I'm going to try and rig the car so it can't be hooned about and only goes ~10-15mph max. - The larger wheels is a good idea but need to check with transport company if the roll bar tyre rack is ok. Might be able to sneak the wings in my luggage when I fly back to Canada. Crating is definitely an option as well but it's a much more expensive alternative to it going by train. Last quote was £6.5k Southampton to Vancouver by container compared to Southampton -> (£750) Halifax -> (~£1000) Vancouver. The reason its much cheaper is they don't do Roll on Roll off shipping to Vancouver, but they do to Halifax and that's much cheaper regardless of the distance differences.

I'm in the process of booking transport to ship my Seven over to West Coast of Canada and have come up against a problem. The best method of transport is by rail once it's docked in Halifax but the transport company won't touch cars with less than 6" ground clearance. I'm not sure what exactly mine is right now (I'm currently in Canada, car in Cornwall) but I imagine it's barely 3" clearance. Given I know very little about suspension, what's my options? adjustable dampers won't get that high on max length setting I assume? I know there's transport foam car manufacturers put in suspension which would increase height as well but can't find a retailer for that. Ideas?

Noticed a hairline crack right next to the bolt, as an avid track day'er I assume this means it's safety is badly compromised and I should replace? Or are there repair options?

Thanks for the heads up, I have seen that in the archives, never had a problem filling up thought so will leave it for now.

Finally got it off, sprayed some WD40 penetrant which loosened up the cork gasket nicely but the inner O ring was still holding on tight, took quite a lot of force to finally bring them apart!

I like that idea, having both is surely the optimum solution. I'll be installing a PRRT with the new rad so should be straight forward to add this as well.

All rivets are present which bodes well. Plan is to gently work area back to flat and fit the reinforcement bars. Even though they aren't apparently necessary any more I clearly need it given the current distortion of the floor. I tried but couldn't find anything on a DIY solution in the archives though.