Monte Busa

Any idea why Revilla's links in the first post in this thread dodn't work for me?  They won't click through for me.  I'd love to see what's been done, especialy on the MFRU and the MAP as I'm going through a very similar excercise now.

Cheers, 

Aric

 

,,,ok, I answered my own question - the center pin on the switch is the lamp wire.  I'll leave this here for posterity.

Does anyone know offhand which wire is the alarm light wire on a three wire Rover inertia switch?  Also, how is the alarm light wired?  I assume through the alarm wire (which becomes hot when the switch is tripped, to ground?

Cheers, 

Aric

 

Good tip, thanks F355GTS!  I'll try that next.

I did a bit of fiddling on the brake this evening after dinner, and I noticed that they do indeed "pump up", meaning, repeated actuation removes essentially all the free play, staying hard while actuated after that point, but they literally bleed down again in a second or two once I release the pedal...any ideas?

 

 

AP Racing  rears. No parking brake.

...getting the brakes bled yesterday, I had forgotten what the brake pedal free travel was like prior to the rebuild.  The pedal is nice and hard once it starts compressing fluid, but prior to that pt, it has a fair bit of travel - almost one inch (maybe not quite)...keep bleeding?

Cheers,

Aric

 

I ended up rotating mine so the solenoid faces downward - it was within 1/16" of the #4 cylinder header tube (4 into 1 race)...good to change it now before problems with heat start.  Now it's plenty safe and out of the' way, and I can access the wiring terminals a lot easier now too.

Thanks for the tip on the WOSP starter Mankee.  The older starter was getting a little tired sounding on my 1.4SS lump, so an upgrade was in order.  Did you rotate the solenoid, or keep it like it comes from the box (upwards adjacent to the block)?  Here's mine as it's installed now:

Aric

 

 

 

Well I finally got the starter fited, after a disturbing amount of grinding and finishing of a brand new block.  I found I had to go almost as far as what is shown on Titanium7s picture - maybe 1/4 or so less on the front most webbing, as I sprung for a WOSP starter, and it's body is about 1/2" smaller diamter than teh standard starter that was on the 1.4 K engine.

That was the last accessory to fit after having fit the oil filter head and filter, along with the alternator this past weekend, so with any luck the engine will be back in the car in a few days time and I can finish on the final wiring installation and modifications!

Aric

 

I am using 330cc pico style injectors with my Jenvey DTH ITBs and their bespoke fuel rail on my ~205BHP 1.8K, and I was told they were good for over 250 or so BHP.  If you're using a Jenvey setup, I highly recommend them - very clean install - and the wiring is plug and play to thr Rover loom.

 

I'm still working on it...stay tuned.  The clutch disc itself is a bit thicker than the old one, which I believe is the reason for excess take-up on the new setup, I'll post what I ended up coming up with when I reach a conclusion or start scracthing my head again...I have some ideas.

Aric

Thansk for the picture Titanium7 - I was reaching the same conclusion as what's suggested by what you're showing, namely that the Magneton starter has a bit more clearance than the in-line axial version.  Do you happen to know if the Magneton has any problems clearing 4-1 primaries?

Aric

 

Is this the WOSP?

http://www.amp-starters.co.uk/product.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=599,1575&P_ID=35793&CAT_ID=1575&numRecordPosition=1

Thanks Mankee.

Are there any starters out there that you (or anyone else) know(s) of that require little if any block hacking?  I'm specifically concerned about the engine serial number area - especially in the states, grinding off the number for any reason is a no-no...

Aric

 

 

 

I know I've read somewhere, but can't find out where now, and unfortunately I don't have my 1.4 K block anymore as a reference - but I will need to grind the block webbing for clearance for the starter to fit my 1.8 K block correct? Are there any pictures floating about showing what the typical modificatons look like?

Aric

 

Fabricated arm, dry sump - the CRB was the one that was in the gearbox when it was removed from the old engine - it was in good shape, so I reused it (not sure if INA or SKF).  I don't remember the old setup having so much slack though.  I'm using the old flywheel too, and the replacement clutch is an AP Racing kit from CC, their "uprated" Rover kit.

Aric

 

OK, I successfully shortened the gearbox input shaft to work with my VHPD crank and installed the box.  I noticed that the clutch release bearing doesn't contact the pressure plate fingers from my new AP clutch kit until the clutch fork is halfway through it's travel, as fixed by the cutout in the bellhousing.  Normal?

Thanks, 

Aric

 

Woah, I'm glad you pointed that out Paul!  I feel kind of silly now, but I guess I would have discovered that soon enough if I popped the top of the box - much approeciated though.  If I were closer to you, I'd owe you a beer for sure!

Cheers,

Aric

 

Mark, your contact came through, with detailed info, schamtics, etc.  ...and my mystery part was definitely an accelerometer :)

Cheers,

 

Aric

 

I did a bit more investigation, and it appears that the oil is all coming from around the metal button / plug pressed into the gearbox case just above the input shaft cover. It appears to have a knick in either it, or the case itself - enough to cause serious weeping around the plug, or drips every few seconds when the box is set on its nose. I guess I'll have to dig deeper. Hmm.

OK, so a frustrating night:

I decided to to fix the Type 9 box that was previeoulsy in the car with my 1.4K Supersport engine onto the new engine and ran into what I believe is a problem (or two or three).

1.) Once I got the splines on the input shaft of the transmission to align with the clutch disc, the box slides in, but seems to bottom prematurely.  At first I thought it was just the locater dowels needing some persuading, but I'm starting to think the input shaft on the box is too long for my new VHPD crank spigot hole - I did some measurements, and it seems to be about 5mm or so too long.  Any pressure on the bellhousing to engine block fastening bolts and the engine and box stop turning freely - so I do thing it's an interference issue.  Is this possible?  if so, how much does the shaft need to be shortened?  If it matters, I'm running the CC dry sump tank / bellhousing.

2.) To get the clutch disc and input shaft to align, I tipped the engine on its nose on the engine stand while I scratched my head about it bottoming out.  Once I took the box back off, I noticed a bunch of oil had run onto the clutch pressure plate.  I don't think the oil is from the sump tank as it appears to have run down the input shaft.  I think I have an input shaft seal leak.  I'd love to just run without a gasket but use Loctite anearobic sealant...will this be a problem?  I guess this might be the good news of the night, as I can fix it now since the issue was caught before everything goes back together for good and into the car.  I haven't taken the front cover of the transmission yet, but I'm thinking of replacing the annular seal as well between the inout shaft and the throw out bearing sleeve / input cover.  Also, I did notice some oil weeping out of what appears to be a 1/2" or so diameter metal button / plug of some sort just above the main front cover - I've never seen a Type 9 with one, and I have no idea how I'd get it out aside from completely disassembling the box 

3.) Some of the gear oil got on the brand new AP clutch disc (cringe).  I washed it off immediately with acetone and brake clean - it appears that it hasn't soaked up any oil, but is it ruined?

Argh...

Aric

 

Awesome - thanks, Mark Durrant!

Aric

Does anyone have a known working e-mail and phone number for Stack?  I've tried a few with no luck.

Cheers, 

Aric

 

Here's the label...ST8100 (there is an actual model ST8100), might not be that much help...hmmm.  Also, it's not a beacon - the Stack in-car beacon receiver has a an IR eye and is shaped like a lipstick cannister...

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0589_zpsujaktpyh.jpg