thompster

Black with orange decals, probably a sigma driving through Burley village.  I was mid-treasure hunt with the family.

An actual confirmed spot.. crikey.  I was avec family in 3 series touring behind you from the big roundabout with the McDonalds on it.  Nice number plate...

Outskirts of Oxford heading towards the Rover/Mini) plant but turned off just before.

Hi Mark really looking for a prefix CAT plate but thanks for the offer.

(Thanks also for the K plate tip above.. odd how a C7 is £399 but a K7 is only £250)

I fitted a Helix clutch when my AP one failed about 18 months ago.  No complaints about performance and no issues. That said I was surprised to see the friction plate was LUK and the cover had the manufacturers name and part numbers ground off, which got me wondering if I'd bought a standard clutch with an expensive Helix sticker.  The AP clutches use Valeo friction material (I think) but the cover plate is stamped as AP. No idea if AP actually bespoke the covers or just stamp a pattern one though.

PS.  Good to see Mankee still about 

Don't underestimate how bad a clutch can be and still work.  This half-a-clutch was working fine, other than a slight buzz through the pedal as the clutch disengaged..

Just for completeness Bilstein sent me the spring retainers (top company) and they fit with the same washers.  Photo below, for the record both sizes use a 42mm washer:  thanks all. James.

Thanks all.. good advice to call Bilstein: What nice people - they're sending me a couple of the spring retainers FOC. Slightly worried about the washers because if they are different I'll need to remove the damper eye to change them.  Could do without that..

Thanks to GJT I have a set of standard front / rear springs to fit in place of my 2.25" race springs.

Rear springs are 2.25" diameter and will go straight on but new fronts are only 1.9" and my  upper spring retainers at the damper eyes are too big for the 1.9" springs to seat. Caterhamparts lists a 2.25" retainer but not a 1.9" one.  Any ideas if its possible to get the standard 1.9 ones anywhere or do I need to find some 2.25 front springs?

Hi Ian, I saw those but a lot of hassle selling on.  fingers crossed for what GJT or anyone else has kicking around..

Looking for a set of standard rate springs for a 2007 k series on bilsteins. I think that's 150lb fronts and the progressive rears. I've got the race springs at the moment but fancy trying road spec.

Here's my ultimate carbon 13" wings on race wingstays. Still too high but better than the standard wing stays:

Easiest way to tell a metric chassis from imperial is the diagonal braces in the engine bay. The imperial chassis has long diagonal braces about 1m long from the centre in front of the scuttle towards the front of the car. The metric chassis has short diagonal braces just in front of the footwells..

Definitely try the plus gas / impact driver first.  Even cutting the bolt off with something like a Dremel speed-clic disc would be better than a new wishbone.  Nice shocks btw.. let me know if you want to swap :-)

possibly an ex Academy car, yellow with orange cage.

Also Terrostat 9220 as used by the factory, on Caterhamparts at 40 quid a tube but Eurocarparts sell it for half that.  Mine have been on for 2 years without issue.

Guessing at this one?  204mm.

https://parts.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=312

Oh well..  it was a nice idea.  Thanks all.

Sorry if this is a bonkers question but is it physically possible to swap diff internals with the diff housing still in the car?

On the face of it it should be possible to remove driveshafts (and ears?), remove the diff backplate and castellated bearing holders and then swap diff internals over, adjust backlash and reassemble.

Any reason that wouldn't work, clearance maybe?

James

So no conclusive ID from the POBC - guess it must be something unusual then.  I had thought it was a PTP one but not sure now.

Today's exam question - what K series / Type 9 flywheel is this?  It weighs 4.5kg..

Given the various threads about AP friction material disintegrating I'm not sure they can be much better than the others.  My AP one was Valeo friction material, my Helix one is LUK so neither appear particularly exotic.

Scratch that.  Thought I should check the bulbs were actually blown and they're not..

Three switches don't light up.. Headlight, Screenwash (what is that symbol...) and heated screen. The switches have the multi-pin block connector on the back but also two single spade connectors which just feed the LES lamp.  The screenwash switch is missing the negative lamp feed and no sign of a spare connector under the dash - odd. The bulb itself is fine.  The heated screen switch has both both lamp connections but positive feed doesn't work.  Didn't investigate the headlight bulb but suspect that won't be the bulb either.  Another job for the weekend.

Thanks JK.. I've whipped out one of the bulbs so time to find some replacements. The replacments you linked to are Maplin who are no more.  The others I can find are '280' but apparently they're too bright.  Off to ebay for some dimmer LES bulbs...