Brake pedal adjustment

[gilesm]

Hi all, I moved my pedals a few weeks ago to the furthest position away from the driver so my knees don't rub against the steering wheel. I adjusted to the clutch cable so biting point was correct but forgot to do anything with the brake push rod (?). I've been out a coupole of times with it, and maybe it's because I haven't driven her since before Christmas but the brakes don't feel like they used to, they don't feel as sharp.

 

Anyway this weekend I moved the push rod thing as well, now the nuts are as far to the end of the rod as possible without falling off. I've been out again briefly aqnd the brakes seem better I think but not as I remember them last tear, they still seem a bit spongy.

 

So my questions are (sorry they're numpty) did I adjust the push rod thing the right way? What does it do anyway - I guess there's some sort of cylinder in the master brake thingy? Would moving the pedals make the brakes spongy or should I look elsewhere - as I say not really used her for the last 3 months?

 

I'm off to Abingdon on Friday so I guess it'll become very apparent very quickly if there is something a miss.

 

she's blue and a super sport, and now with extra grrrr 😬. Pictures now here

[Shaun_E]

Moving the pedals will not have made the brakes spongy. The pushrod adjustment will affect the dead travel before the brakes start to activate. The usual problem is that, in the extreme pedal positions, either the brakes stay on (push rod too close) or you don't get the full travel on them (push rod too far away - but this is unlikely). Any sponginess will likely be down to air in the system (bleed brakes), water absorption (replace fluid) or a leak somewhere (master cylinder?). Fluid should be replaced every 2 years minimum.

 

Yellow SL #32