Midnight Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 What's the best method of changing the rear pads on a dedion? I was thinking of cutting the tye wraps holding down the brake bundy to the dedion tube and undoing the caliper to ear bolts to lift the caliper and pads clear of the disc. Does anybody know a there a better way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxseven Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Read this from Myles's website here L7 BDA Supersprint Joy here 😬 Edited by - Manxseven on 13 Jul 2005 14:25:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Did mine recently, buy the windback tool it makes life easy. I took my calipers off as I didn't fancy twisting the brake pipe about - unless you are practised in changing the pads I would recommend that you do so as well. Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Then you have all the fun of bleeding the damned things and making sure the connections don't leak... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted July 13, 2005 Author Share Posted July 13, 2005 Thanks for the replies. The Myles method looks good to me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 2 connections hardly make it hard work and they are alot easier than changing the brake lines if you kink them ❗ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Really can't see the point of disconnecting the brake pipes. The Myles approach works for me MikeW Mega Grad Race No 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Thanks. It works - you shouldn't need to move the clapper all that much and certainly don't need to apply any serious torque to any of the components (once it's waving in the air that is). FWIW, when I finally changed to flexis as part of another (larger) brake upgrade, I found that one of the connectors on the hard-line had been done up so tight that it had split the connector inside the clapper. The only way I could undo it was to saw through the brake line and get a socket on the back of the screw-fitting... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 And just HOW do you polish the insude of the calipers unless you take them off ❗ ❗ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 😬 Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil.Merry Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I was looking at changing my rear pads recently as the wear was a bit uneven across the disc and the car was due for the NCT, Irish equivalent of the MOT. Unbelievably the imbalance between the two sides was 1% and the braking effort was well above that required! The wind back tool looks the ideal for doing this job, as it minimises the risk of damage to the brake tubes, etc. Where can I get one and approximatley how much do they cost? Phil Merry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Most motor factors have them including Halfords. About £15 I think. MikeW Mega Grad Race No 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 More like £20. Mine's made by Sykes-Pickavant - a well known and widely-available tool maker. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Wind back tool not required if you do the job properly 😳, remove the calipers, and get the lot on the bench where you can see what you're doing . Evereyone seems terrified of bleedi *wink*ng Caterham brakes...think it's something to do with the 'Easybleed' (a misnomer if there ever was one) system Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeW Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Paul, Not terrified but 1) It's just not necessary 2) I'm changing the rear pads about every 10 weeks or so, quite ofen at the race circuit. Why make a 10 min job into a 60 min one and risk poor brakes when you're just about to go out and race MikeW Mega Grad Race No 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Wind back tool not required if you do the job properly You can use pliers if you wish, ma boy Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted July 15, 2005 Author Share Posted July 15, 2005 Paul your'e right about Easibleed kits... more like easibleeding brake fluid everywhere but where it should be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 Not much in the way of competition if you've got to do the work on your own though - vacuum systems are rather more expensive. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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