neil.cavanagh Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 I'm running a 1.8 140bhp SV with standard brakes (2003). As one of my winter upgrades I'd like to look at the brakes. Whilst they seem to stop you ok, I find the brake pedal somewhat mushy. The amount of mushyness also varies, with it being especailly bad after a track day. Also as the car is a bit heavier than a whippet sized seven, and the driver is certainly on the lardie side I know I'm carrying more weight than normal, so some extra heat dissipation would be good... I don't think it is a bleeding problem as they have always been like this, and I think if there was air in there it would get a lot worse when hot and better when cool. What I was considering was the Caterham big disc and calipers for the front, and the uprated master cylinder. Will this set up be OK with the standard rear brakes still? At close to £1000 is seems pretty expensive. What other options do I have? thanks Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyboy Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 James Whiting does a front disc/ calliper upgrade! Dannyboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Caterham big front brake upgrade and m/c is awesome 😳...I can't see why you would even want to consider an alternative Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 What brake pads are you using, if these are the standard Caterham offering I suggest you upgrade the fronts only. Speak with James Whiting regarding pad choice, I use Pagids which are excellent on both track and road but I'm not sure if these are available for standard calipers. Mark D Su77on Se7ens Considering my options for 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Neil, I put Wilwoods on front (see web site) and the pedal is still "mushy". see if pulling the handbrake on enough for the car to still move. If the pedal gets firmer the problem is the rear callipers. I put this down to the single piston, swinging calliper design. I cannot find a lightweight 2 piston calliper with handbrake. The Caterham rear 2 piston calliper not only does not have a handbrake but needs a differnt rear disc. hence I'm fitting AP racing callipers, which, whilst having no handbrake, will use the standard disc so I can easily and relatively quickly be swapped over to the originla setup for MOT. My original idea for fixing has been questioned and, whilst 2 engineers and several motor trade people agree with me that it's ok, the opinion here is, as it's standard practice to mount on ali block, I'm making ali blocks. I'm also looking into making a band transmission brake which will be light, easy to operate with no cables or heavy levers and will satisfy regs. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted October 22, 2004 Author Share Posted October 22, 2004 Norman, I've been reading the thread on your rear brake upgrade with interest!! I'm looking forward to hear how it turns out, and I think your 'screwdriver' handbrake for MOT was a great idea! My brake pedal action does seem to get a bit better when the handbrake is on. I'd heard this elsewhere as being a sign that the handbrake needs tightening? If I replace the m/c and front brakes will I still have a mushy pedal due to the rears?? Mark, I'm on the standard pads on the front.. I was thinking of trying Mintex 1444 ( think) but I can't see this helping with the pedal mushiness too much.. Does anyone have a price for the Whiting or Wilwoods set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Tim_ Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Just to add my 2p. I'm running totally standard brakes, except for Pagid Greys in the front and Black in the back, and my pedal has always been like rock. What fluid are you mushy guys using? I'm using AP Racing (AP551) fluid. £4.07p + VAT from DT. - Tim - 2004 evo Caterham Academy, Group 2 Runner Up build diary here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Does anyone have experience of fitting the uprated m/c to standard brakes? I assume this gets rid of the mushiness but what about braking performance? Or uprated m/c and pagids perhaps? I know the Caterham big brake package is excellent but it's soo expensive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxseven Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Guys, You can get from caterham a high-ratio brake pedal. I've yet to fit mine, but hope it will improve the pedal feel on standard brakes. Simon Emmens Caterham and Pussy Photos here 😬 Edited by - Manxseven on 22 Oct 2004 10:45:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Any idea when you'll be fitting it? This is of great interest and I'll be looking for your feedback asap. How much was it and what is involved/how does it work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 If the "long" pedal is due to the rear calliper piston not winding out then replacing front callipers & m/c will not solve the long pedal. The other problem with the standard rear calliper is that it gets air trapped in it and needs taking off to bleed fully. This gives a "soft" pedal. See the new thread on VW rear callipers, this may help the above. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Manxseven, I would think a high ration pedal will apply more force to the m/c over a shorter pedal movement. It will not solve the non adjustement and bleeding problem with the standard Sierra calliper. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxseven Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 High ratio brake pedal (easy to fit, just remove old pedal and replace with new one, pivot point is moved) (part no 77198A) around £20 (if I remember correctly). (As Norm said; It will not solve the non adjustement and bleeding problem with the standard Sierra calliper). Simon Emmens Caterham and Pussy Photos here 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Norman, I understand the point about the airlock in the rear sierra caliper but what is meant by 'not winding out'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Tim_ Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Have you guys tried the pressure-based bleeding kits (available from Halfrauds and Demon Thieves)? As mentioned above, my totally standard brakes gives a rock hard pedal, so it IS possible without spending a fortune on brake upgrades. I suspect having the fluid forced through under pressure gives a far better bleed than the old undo/pump & hold/do-up/release two-man method. - Tim - 2004 evo Caterham Academy, Group 2 Runner Up build diary here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Rick, the rear calliper piston is on a screw thread. To push the piston back in when you fit new pads you have to screw the piston in. These callipers tend not to push the piston out as the pad wears which is why by pulling the hadbrake half on the pedal feels harder, this pad is closer to the disc so the pedal does not have to travel as far to make contact 'tween pad and disc. _tim_ got a pressure bleed system, it still will not move air trapped in the calliper casting. Far more pressure is applied with someone pressing the brake pedal. Removing the calliper and twisting it so the bleed nipple is at the top will remove trapped air bubbles. To be fair the air bubbles that get trapped must be minscule as the pedal is not that spongey, just not rock hard. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted October 22, 2004 Author Share Posted October 22, 2004 Norman, that matches what I had heard... sounds like your Golf rear calipers could be the way to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 neil, I'll post on the Golf calliper thread that if anyone wants to look into this I'll get one and work out how easy it's going to be to fit. I rejected them as they're single piston but thats not to say they're no good at all. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 Calling Manx Seven, Wondered if you've fitted your high ratio brake pedal yet and, if so, what's it like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxseven Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 um... er.... No I haven't fitted it yet 😳 (House move, DIY on new house is my excuse) Hope to fit in next couple of months 😳 L7 BDA Supersprint Joy here 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now