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K series SLR header rubbing


DanRo

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I have an issue with my SLR exhaust header no. 2. When Millwood fitted it to my car, because it is a K series in a metric chassis and not an SLR, Eric heated and bent the pipe a little so it passed under the chassis diagonal. It has occasionally resonated on overrun so I knew it was marginal. Following a recent engine out procedure, it’s ended up tighter up against the rail. 

Ultimately, I will need to get it looked at but as a temporary measure, I have pulled the silencer box in towards the side skin by moving the bobbin to the inner hole on the rear bracket. This has given me a fraction more clearance but does put a little tension through the system, which isn’t ideal. 

I also thought of slipping some shim washers under the right hand engine mount with the aim of rotating the engine about the LH mount and lowering the header stack very slightly to create a little more clearance under the diagonal for the No. 2 pipe. It would be 2mm washers, that’s all my air box above will allow I think.

I wanted to ask on here whether there are any thoughts on this. I don’t want to create more issues than I solve. 

photo below taken from above

 

ThanksIMG_9069.thumb.jpeg.faf375fd57fa338a4e619826f7bd09ed.jpeg in advance. 

Dan

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It's possible to slacken all 5 primary nuts and move the collector & silencer slightly up/down to see if you can achieve any extra clearance. Also remove the rear bobbin bracket to allow free movement but put blocks under the silencer to stop it falling. If you can get clearance then support the silencer in the desired position and trial fit the bobbin bracket as it may need bending. Once the rear bracket is adjusted and fitted retighten the 5 head nuts to 25'lb. 

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In line with above message, worth putting the exhaust in desired position whilst supporting the engine under sump and then seeing how much adjustment can be achieved from engine and gearbox mounts, left/right up/down to see if you can clear chassis tube.

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