Base Engine Mapping for R500D Equivalent

[aerobod - near CYYC]

As I prepare to start my hybrid R500 Duratec (I'm calling it an R500A - 'A' for Aerobod), I'm trying to finalise the basic fuel and ignition maps to get them as close as possible before the rolling road session and allow me to do the basic ring and cam initial running-in that the manufacturers have sopecific requirements for.

With that in mind I have created these maps from an adaption of the original R400 maps and various other sources.and was wondering if anyone has any comparable maps they could share or comments on the values I have set, so that I can refine my initial maps as much as possible.

These maps are for Bosch "Green" injectors, part #0-280-155-968 @ 431.1cc(310g)/min @ 3 bar, together with 48mm Jenveys with 90mm trumpets and R500 equivalent cams (Kent D-TEC35).

Injector latency map:

Throttle voltage to throttle site mapping:

Primary fuel map:

Primary ignition map:

[Colin_T]

Injector latency looks correct for the Bosch ev6 greens.

 

throttle voltage - curve looks ok. Physically adjust your tps so matches the minimum voltage (0.3) and check your WOT voltage. Set your curve to your liking, generally more sites at lesser throttle angles for more resolution. Bear in mind any change you make between the min/max sites here will throw your maps out. E.g what was load site 7 might now require the fuelling from what was load site 9 in it as the throttle angle to achieve that voltage has now changed. 
 

Fuel map ms values - can’t comment. 2.0 ms seems a lot at idle though (can just be down to how the scaling of the injectors is set, I seem to recall MBE had a setting where it gave greater resolution at lower rpm and load than at higher rpm and load for finer injector control in that area?) Get it running with a lambda probe in it and give it a tweek. You’ll probably be adjusting your idle airflow and throttle balance anyway so do all this at the same time. Depending how cammy it is, 5.5-7 kg/h be ball park airflow figure your looking for.

top tip: mechanically set your idle air flow too fast by approx 150-200rpm, then turn your idle control back on. E.g mechanically set to 1200rpm if your target is 1000rpm)  It’s easier to electronically slow it down to your target than speed it up. Aids hugely with cold start and cold fast idle too, also prevents overshooting idle target when coming to a stop or revving the engine up and stalling. 
 

ignition - as you know lots of factors effect this, but considering it’s a starting point, I’d be inclined to perhaps grab everything above load site 0 and retard 4 degrees or so just to make it safe until you get it on the rollers.

(save a backup, you can always load it back in)

would 100% suggest checking with timing light to make sure the timing alignment is sync’d correctly. (Remember value will be double on the timing light if wasted spark I.e 10degrees on the engine = 20 on the gun)

 

personally speaking, I had a rolling road for 15 years, we used to do an engine break in procedure which could usually be coincided with some of the mapping too. Safest place to run the engine in IMO. run it in, oil change, do the mapping, job done. 
Unfortunately I saw lots of brand new engines damaged from “running in” before they even made it to the dyno because they was too rich or lean or timing miles out and they had pinked their brains out, or had a fluid leak and didn’t spot it whilst driving on the road.

id say get it so it idles, do your leak checks etc, then see if the dyno will let you do a run in procedure that coincides with the mapping. 

looking forward to the end result

Also, what access level are you using (bottom right corner) if all of the advanced options aren’t available to you drop me a pm and I’ll send you the passcode for MBE master access level. 

Hope this has been of some help

good luck!

colin. 

Edited April 6 by Colin_T
Typo.

[aerobod - near CYYC]

5 hours ago, Colin_T said:

Injector latency looks correct for the Bosch ev6 greens.

 

throttle voltage - curve looks ok. Physically adjust your tps so matches the minimum voltage (0.3) and check your WOT voltage. Set your curve to your liking, generally more sites at lesser throttle angles for more resolution. Bear in mind any change you make between the min/max sites here will throw your maps out. E.g what was load site 7 might now require the fuelling from what was load site 9 in it as the throttle angle to achieve that voltage has now changed. 
 

Fuel map ms values - can’t comment. 2.0 ms seems a lot at idle though (can just be down to how the scaling of the injectors is set, I seem to recall MBE had a setting where it gave greater resolution at lower rpm and load than at higher rpm and load for finer injector control in that area?) Get it running with a lambda probe in it and give it a tweek. You’ll probably be adjusting your idle airflow and throttle balance anyway so do all this at the same time. Depending how cammy it is, 5.5-7 in/hg be ball park airflow figure your looking for.

top tip: mechanically set your idle air flow too fast by approx 150-200rpm, then turn your idle control back on. E.g mechanically set to 1200rpm if your target is 1000rpm)  It’s easier to electronically slow it down to your target than speed it up. Aids hugely with cold start and cold fast idle too, also prevents overshooting idle target when coming to a stop or revving the engine up and stalling. 
 

ignition - as you know lots of factors effect this, but considering it’s a starting point, I’d be inclined to perhaps grab everything above load site 0 and retard 4 degrees or so just to make it safe until you get it on the rollers.

(save a backup, you can always load it back in)

would 100% suggest checking with timing light to make sure the timing alignment is sync’d correctly. (Remember value will be double on the timing light if wasted spark I.e 10degrees on the engine = 20 on the gun)

 

personally speaking, I had a rolling road for 15 years, we used to do an engine break in procedure which could usually be coincided with some of the mapping too. Safest place to run the engine in IMO. run it in, oil change, do the mapping, job done. 
Unfortunately I saw lots of brand new engines damaged from “running in” before they even made it to the dyno because they was too rich or lean or timing miles out and they had pinked their brains out, or had a fluid leak and didn’t spot it whilst driving on the road.

id say get it so it idles, do your leak checks etc, then see if the dyno will let you do a run in procedure that coincides with the mapping. 

looking forward to the end result

Also, what access level are you using (bottom right corner) if all of the advanced options aren’t available to you drop me a pm and I’ll send you the passcode for MBE master access level. 

Hope this has been of some help

good luck!

colin. 

Lots of great info there Colin, thanks for that.

I’ve talked to 2 rolling road operators so far. They will be learning the software and having to use me for a guide on many features. As I have a wideband system on my car, I’m going to do some prep adjustment at medium loads and 4 degrees of timing retard across the board as you suggest. The timing map is from the R400 map developed by SBD that I used on the engine before upgrade to the R500A spec, so if fairly safe. Both operators are BMW and Porsche tuning specialists, they both advised medium load running-in on the road if possible before a full load rolling road session if the fuel settings and timing are conservative, which should be the case after about 20km of logging (based on my R400 wideband logging and adjustment of the SBD maps on the road originally).

I will hopefully pick one of the 2 operators next week, my current favourite downloaded Easimap while I was on the phone with him and I emailed him my current chip and template files. He promised to study the software on the weekend and tell me on Mon if he could do the tuning at a reasonable cost, but he would want to operate Easimap. The other operator said he would look to me to operate Easimap using my laptop and tell me what to change, with a CAD$250 setup fee and about 5 hours of rolling road time for a total of $1000 or so.

I was planning to do an accurate alignment of the TPS on the weekend. I’ve currently got the throttle bodies set at 0.05mm open when against the throttle stop, as measured with a feeler gauge. The SBD alignment method is to wind the idle screw fully out (about 3 turns currently), rotate the TPS to read 0.25V, then wind the idle screw in until the TPS is set to 0.30V. The full throttle voltage will then be read and set for throttle site 15.0, before scaling the values at the other sites to give the 0.3V to Vmax range, but I will keep the current curve the same shape between the new limits. I’m also going to check other sensor values, load the latest template file and fit and re-calibrate a new wideband lambda sensor, too.

i will need to get the initial startup 20min run at 2,500 to 3,000RPM (with no engine load) finished before throttle body fine tuning, as no idling or rev deviation is allowed during that period, based on Kent and Wossner instructions.

The 2ms injector value at 1000RPM and site 0.0 is a scaled value from the old injectors on the R400, but it may be overridden by the idle target electronic control, in the old R400 incarnation it idled smoothly at 1000RPM +/-25RPM with 0.97 to 1.01 lambda. Your technique of switching off the ECU controlled idle to set the mechanical idle high should determine if this needs to be addressed.

[Colin_T]

have you considered getting SBD to do the tuning remotely? 

[aerobod - near CYYC]

29 minutes ago, Colin_T said:

have you considered getting SBD to do the tuning remotely? 

I had, but I’m skepticsl about remote optimization of timing without a tuned ear for pinking working directly with the engine. I feel that I can get the fuel mapping as accurate as they can, as I saw considerable improvements over the SBD R400 plenum map by doing my own on-road tuning when I originally bought the 9A4 from them. The people I’ve been talking to are fairly skilled tuners with plenty of high-horsepower European car tuning (one company also has done a number of Bonneville Speed Week Cars).

On balance I was thinking it would probably double the rolling road cost by using SBD, but I don’t know if it would be any better result. The tuners I’m talking to have experience with lots of different ECUs and are not phased by an ECU they haven’t worked with before. There may be some MBE experience locally I haven’t found, as there are quite a few Radicals around at the local tracks that would also have an MBE ECU.