anthony1956 Posted August 14, 2022 Posted August 14, 2022 The array is vast and I am lost. When I choose one it's impossible to find over here.That's why I will probably use the new gasket.Anthony
simon_h Posted August 14, 2022 Posted August 14, 2022 For what engine? K series? No sealant is required on the gasket. If you leave the gasket out then any rtv sump sealant should suffice
anthony1956 Posted August 14, 2022 Author Posted August 14, 2022 1987 BDRyes that choice of RTV is where I got lost.
anthony1956 Posted August 14, 2022 Author Posted August 14, 2022 duly ordered some, thanks.https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ch/en/product/gasketing-sealants/loctite_si_5980.html
rkeywood Posted August 15, 2022 Posted August 15, 2022 If you're sticking with an original steel sump then it needs a new gasket set. The original cork gaskets can seal OK as long as the sump is perfectly flat and not distorted, which it often is if the screws are over-tightened. The laminate gaskets (eg.laminate gasket ) are much better and I've always used these. The sump flange and block need to be thoroughly clean and I'd run a tap up the screw holes to make sure they're clean. You don't need sealant on either gasket type (if you use too much sealant on the laminate gasket it negates it 'self sealing' nature) but for ease of install I've always stuck the gasket to the sump with a thin smear of RTV (Wurth Super but any will do) and left overnight upsidedown on a flat surface with a heavy weight on top. Then fit without sealant on the block side and threadlock on a new set of screws torqued to 5 ft lbs initially and then 10 ft lbs final.
anthony1956 Posted August 15, 2022 Author Posted August 15, 2022 great, thanks. Just what I needed to know - it is very distorted.
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