Fitting the Piper vvc blanking kit

[D Jones]

Does any one know of a definitive guide to explain what is removed, what needs blanking off?

I had hoped that the piper kit would come with some instructions, but sadly not.

Just 3 pieces of ally with no bolts, no gaskets, no advice.........shame, as I like to read and learn new things.

Thanks in advance

David

[oilyhands]

OK.. a few noteworthy points

The VVC mechs, actuator and transfer rod need to be removed, retain the VVC mech gaskets and attachment bolts.

Before attempting any assembly, first dry fit the inlet cam to the head with no followers but with the ladder loosely attached and ensure the cam turns freely without fouling or binding. You may find the cam/ladder/head needs easing, then clamp the ladder down and ensure the cam still turns. If it doesn’t then ease the appropriate area of the head/ladder to facilitate easy rotation.

The top plate that fits where the actuator was will leak unless you first plug the oil feed hole behind it, I usually tap this to M9 or M10 and loctite in a short piece of studding/bolt. The plate should then be attached using silicone sealant applied sparingly and M8x 25mm bolts/setscrews. You can only attached this plate after the head has been fully assembled and the ladder attached,

The two end plates sit in place of the VVC mechs and are attached using the VVC mech attachment flange bolts. Two points , these flange bolts are often a little too large on the flange to fit in the recesses of the blanking plate so may need reducing in diameter a little, also the front attachment bolts are too tall and will foul on your verniers unless the heads are reduced by 0.5mm before fitting. The VVC gaskets are tricky to get into the recesses on the back of the blank plates, but persevere, they will go in. The cam seals can sometimes be a tight fit in the blank plates, make sure they are fully home and square or they will leak. Fit the plates to the inlet cam and then offer the cam up to the cam ladder and centralise , align the blanking plates correctly then place two of the attachment bolts each end into the ladder and do up all but one turn before attaching the ladder with cam and plates to the head.

Tighten down the ladder as normal while ensure the blank plate are correctly aligned, the fit all the attachment bolts to the blank plates and torque down.

Oily

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[elan_fan]

I used an M10 second tap and an M10 grub screw to seal the oil feed for the mechanism as per Oily’s instructions. I used cap screws to locate the blanking plates. I bought a flame shaped burr and relieved the head where the lobes of the cams contact, with the burr in an electric drill. I did this rather than use anything abrasive as that way you can vac out the little bits of aluminium and blow out with an air line and not have carborundum powder floating round the oilways  

[oilyhands]

There is some information on my K series website on the blanking kit and making clearance etc. If you follow the link to th K series from my DVAPower website you may find it useful.

Oily

[D Jones]

Oily/elanfan

​thank you for the advice, time to purchase some taps, haven't used them since school !

Dave, the SLR kv6 throttle bodies are looking like new now (though your advice to purchase Jenveys will probably return to haunt me)

Interestingly, the air admittance valve "bar" clashes with the vvc head casting and had to be removed but I remember a thread stating the it was not required when the Emerald ECU is used.

Whilst I have your attention, am I correct in assuming work is required to the head if using piper 285H cams and finally is it worth replacing the valves at this stage while it's all stripped down.

I only use the car on the road for a blat around the Chilterns with a visit to the Dunsfold handling day each year.

[oilyhands]

 If you are using BP285H cams you will need Piper springs and I would also recommend steel caps, its likely that the cams will not clear the tops of the follower bores so some fettling will be required there, you may also find that the cam lobe for inlet valve number one fouls the cam ladder on the side of the bearing housing, you will need to fettle this side of the bearing housing if this is the case.

The valves are of good quality and shouldn’t need replacing unless they are damaged.

Oily